Summary
This historic town is situated on the western side of the Fowey Estuary, a formed valley resulting from meltwater during the last Ice Age. The secure waters facilitated trade during Medieval ages, and throughout the 100 Years’ War, a group of privateers utilized this natural harbor as a stronghold for seizing French vessels.
At the estuary’s entrance are blockhouses from this era, coupled with an artillery fort, St Catherine’s Castle, commissioned by Henry VIII. Fowey presents a scenic experience, especially along the elevated Esplanade that overlooks the estuary. Moreover, the broader Polperro Heritage Coast is recognized as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, readily accessible via walking paths like the South West Coast Path National Trail.
1. Fowey Estuary
Originating on Bodmin Moor, located 20 miles north, the River Fowey meanders through south Cornwall before dramatically reaching the English Channel at Fowey Estuary, which resembles a broad canyon. In Fowey and Polruan, situated on the opposite bank, the residences are clustered in terraces along the steep wooded slopes.
As a natural harbor, the Fowey Estuary has historically served as a hub for sailing; therefore, during the summer months, the multitude of yachts anchored in the waters enhances the picturesque landscape. On land, the optimal approach is to embark on foot, exploring the panoramic vistas of Gribbin Head located on the western side.
Here stands the notable Gribbin Headland Daymark, constructed in 1832 as a navigational aid and is accessible under the management of the National Trust during the summer months. To fully appreciate the estuary’s splendor, there are various circular walking routes available, including the “Hall Walk” along the Pont Pill creek to the west.
2. Esplanade
A charming walkway leading to Readymoney Cove and St Catherine’s Castle, the Esplanade is a slender street on the elevated western side of the Fowey Estuary, providing enchanting views. It is advisable to traverse the Esplanade early in the morning to witness the sunrise breaking over Polruan and the line of houses cascading up the wooded eastern bank.
At the northern terminus of the Esplanade is the Town Quay, located at the heart of the town, where several attractions such as the Fowey Museum and Fowey Aquarium can be found, together with a pub and bar featuring terraces. The Town Quay connects to Fore Street, which serves as Fowey’s principal shopping avenue, lined with boutique shops, bakeries renowned for Cornish pasties, restaurants, galleries, and tearooms.
3. Polruan Ferry
Operating every 10-15 minutes until 21:00, every day excluding Christmas Day, the Polruan Ferry is an essential service for both residents and visitors. Notably, its reliability incorporates it into the South West Coast Path.
During the less busy winter months, the ferry departs directly from the Town Quay, whereas in peak season, the departure location shifts slightly down the Esplanade to Whitehouse Quay. Tickets are priced at £2.20 for a single fare, leading to a quaint village at the other side.
Polruan features winding streets lined with a selection of inns and restaurants, alongside the historical Polruan Castle, a 15th-century blockhouse rising over the harbor entrance.
4. South West Coast Path
Often celebrated as one of the premier walks globally, the South West Coast Path constitutes a nationally recognized trail that hugs the coastline of England’s south-west peninsula. A significant portion of this route traverses national parks or protected Heritage Coast. Due to the numerous rocky inlets, creeks, and estuaries, the walking trail offers both challenges and exhilaration.
This expansive trail extends for an impressive 630 miles, beginning at Minehead in Somerset and culminating at Poole Harbour in Dorset; however, it accommodates day hikes as well. The South West Coast Path website outlines a 6.1-mile circular walk, which is typically challenging and involves two ferry crossings, namely to Bodinnick at the head of the estuary, followed by the return from Polruan to Fowey.
In spring, vibrant wildflowers bloom across the heathland above the estuary, and wildlife enthusiasts may encounter waders such as herons, little egrets, redshanks, and curlews in the tidal creeks.
5. Polkerris Beach
This sandy private beach is a mere ten minutes away, positioned on the opposite side of Gribbin Head. Polkerris Beach is situated within a small bay, enclosed to the south by a sea wall. Water quality here is rated “Excellent” by the Environmental Agency, and the beach is oriented towards engaging families.
Visitors can relax on the beach, engage in rockpooling, construct sandcastles, or participate in diverse water activities. There are opportunities to learn sailing and windsurfing with certified instructors or embark on a paddleboarding excursion along the coast.
Adjacent to Polkerris Beach is a highly regarded restaurant, Sam’s on the Beach, where occasional yoga classes are also offered on the shore.
6. Fowey Aquarium
Overlooking the estuary at the Town Quay, the Fowey Aquarium has been in operation since 1952 and is situated within a historic 18th-century stone edifice. Although compact, the aquarium is well-maintained and showcases the marine life inhabiting the Cornish coast.
Many marine inhabitants, including turbots, conger eels, bream, bass, wrasses, octopuses, and pollock, were captured by local fishermen and anglers before being placed in these tanks. Visitors are encouraged to explore, as some species, such as crabs and lobsters, may be hiding in the corners.
Younger patrons will particularly enjoy the shallow touch pool, which hosts starfish and small crabs.
7. St Catherine’s Castle
During the Reformation in the 1530s, Henry VIII anticipated an invasion from France or the Holy Roman Empire, prompting the fortification of England’s southern coastline. On the cliffs overlooking the harbor entrance stands this artillery fort, constructed around 1540. Today, St Catherine’s Castle is an English Heritage site that has undergone multiple renovations, notably during the Napoleonic Wars, the Crimean War, and again throughout the Second World War, at which time it was equipped with an anti-aircraft gun and ammunition storage.
This 16th-century Henrician fort provides a commanding view of the estuary, while visitors can also explore the two-gun battery established during the Crimean War located below.
8. Fowey Museum
Although modest in size, the Fowey Museum is brimming with a diverse array of exhibits, located in one of the town’s oldest structures—a 15th-century residence characterized by narrow lancet windows. Items on display include model ships, traditional shipyard tools, artifacts from sailboats, and maritime photographs.
Additionally, the museum highlights notable local figures, such as the author and playwright Daphne du Maurier. Recent excavations have unearthed a Medieval garderobe (toilet), providing valuable insights into the local diet and revealing minor treasures, including a shoe, scraps of fabric, and fragments of pottery.
9. Fowey Parish Church
Dedicated to St Finbarr, Fowey’s parish church is a Grade I listed structure established in the early 14th century. Much of what can be observed today originates from the latter part of the 15th century, following an assault by the French in 1457 during the 100 Years’ War.
During this period, the stunning clerestory was added, and the aisles were notably widened. Visitors will be captivated by the exquisite wagon vault, also from the 15th century, while the baptismal font, carved from local Catacleuse stone, dates back to the Norman era. Additional features include a hexagonal pulpit from 1601 and an array of impressive monuments commemorating the Rashleigh family, featuring two brasses from 1582 and 1602.
10. Polridmouth Cove
It is essential to monitor the tides, as Polridmouth Cove features two inviting south-facing beaches that nearly vanish at high tide. When the tide recedes, the beaches are separated by a low headland. Although lifeguards are not present, the water is deemed safe for swimming, sheltered from the open sea.
Moreover, this cove is located along the South West Coast Path, offering captivating views toward Gribbin Head, which provides protection from the west winds. At the rear of Polridmouth Cove, one will find little more than the coastal path and Polridmouth Cottage, situated beside a lake.
11. Fowey River Gallery
Housed in a grand townhouse originally constructed for a Georgian merchant, the Fowey River Gallery is a private art space that hosts approximately six exhibitions annually. These exhibitions provide a platform for talented local artists, including painters, watercolorists, illustrators, sculptors, graphic designers, and printmakers, featuring either solo works or thematic showcases. Additionally, the gallery offers an assortment of gifts downstairs, including scarves, jewelry, and bags, among other items.
The Fowey River Gallery operates every day throughout the summer, and from Monday to Saturday during the rest of the year.
12. Fowey River & Sea Cruises
For those seeking more than just a ferry trip to Polruan, Fowey River & Sea Cruises operates within the harbor, offering a variety of excursions along the River Fowey and the coastline. For a fare of £8, passengers can enjoy a 45-minute narrated cruise, passing notable landmarks such as the residence of 20th-century playwright Daphne du Maurier, the china clay docks, a mussel farm, 15th-century blockhouses, and the picturesque harbor entrance.
The cruises depart every 20 minutes from 11:00 to 16:40 during the summer months. For a genuine journey into the Cornish countryside, the service offers trips upriver to Lostwithiel and Lerryn, contingent on tide conditions, as well as excursions along the sea to Polperro and Mevagissey.
13. Lantic Bay
On the opposite side of the estuary, beyond Polruan, is the enchanting Lantic Bay, known for its white sand and shingle beach nestled beneath towering green cliffs. Lantic Bay is situated on National Trust territory, making it particularly secluded, thus it is advisable to prepare accordingly and stay vigilant regarding tide times and weather conditions.
A leisurely walk to Lantic Bay from Polruan takes approximately one hour, characterized by a couple of steep climbs. Prominent circular trails signposted from the South West Coast Path lead through woodland and provide grand views over the sea.
For younger adventurers, there is a play train located near the parking area at Lantic Bay, and reaching the beach requires traversing a quarter-mile winding path. While the beach slopes significantly into the water, it is generally deemed safe for swimming, depending on the tide.
14. Bird Lady of Fowey
Situated on a farm just outside of town, a small establishment specializes in close encounters with birds of prey. With a falconry qualification and extensive experience in owl training, the Bird Lady of Fowey offers sessions for up to two hours, where participants can meet, handle, and fly four owls and four hawks.
For families visiting with children, a less intensive hour-long experience is available, allowing guests to meet the owls up close and learn about their diet and behavior. During a hands-on handling and flying experience, participants will walk across the fields with a Harris hawk resting on their glove.
There are facilities such as a pagoda and yurt on the farm offering cream teas and coffee, which are included in the organized experiences.
15. Water Activities
The Fowey Estuary provides ideal conditions for various water activities such as kayaking, canoeing, and stand-up paddleboarding, while the stunning scenery on both sides of this expansive flooded valley ensures unforgettable experiences. During your time on the water, it is possible to spot the estuary’s diverse wildlife, including wading birds, cormorants, kingfishers, and potentially mammals such as seals, otters, and dolphins.
Numerous operators based in Fowey offer guided canoe and kayak trips or the option to rent equipment for self-guided adventures. Local operators, including Fowey River Expeditions, Encounter Cornwall, and Adventure Cornwall, are dedicated to tailoring guided tours to match your interests—be it exploring the hidden creeks, observing local wildlife, or learning more about Fowey’s extensive history encompassing over 1,000 years.
