Summary
The captivating Medieval city of Esslingen is situated along the Neckar River, just upstream from Stuttgart. Esslingen boasts centuries of historical architecture, featuring over 200 half-timbered houses safeguarded by once-impenetrable fortifications.
While in Esslingen, it is essential to ascend the steep, vine-clad slopes to the north to gaze down upon the city from the 13th-century walls. Below, you will observe Gothic churches that retain their original stained glass windows, alongside some of Germany’s oldest half-timbered houses dating back to the 1260s.
Few locations can provide a more picturesque backdrop for a German Christmas market. During this season, Esslingen enhances the experience by establishing a medieval village staffed with artisans and animated street performers.
Let us delve into the premier attractions in Esslingen:
1. Stadtkirche St. Dionys
Esslingen’s Protestant city church dominates the Marktplatz from the south, serving as the most striking landmark on the skyline.
The church exhibits High Gothic architecture, predominantly from the 13th century, yet it was constructed atop two significantly older churches, dated to the 700s and 900s.
Visitors will notice that its twin towers are connected at the apex by a footbridge.
This structure was erected in the mid-17th century and replaced by a wood-clad steel version in 1900. For enthusiasts of Gothic artistry, the interior is truly remarkable, featuring 14th-century stained glass, intricately carved oak choir stalls from 1518, a golden tabernacle from the 16th century, and a splendid late-15th-century rood screen.
2. Altes Rathaus
The captivating old town hall presents a varying impression based on your approach.
The southern facade exemplifies excellent Alemannic half-timbered architecture and dates back to the building’s inception in the 1420s.
During its earlier days, the upper floor housed the council chamber, while the ground floor served commerce and taxation.
Death sentences were delivered from the upper council chamber’s windows.
Upon moving to the north side, one is greeted by a sophisticated late-16th-century curved gable, crafted by the esteemed Renaissance architect Heinrich Schickhardt.
The astronomical clock, installed in 1592, features allegorical automatons Justitia (Justice) and Temperantia, which move on the hour.
3. Frauenkirche
Regarded as the first Gothic hall church in Southwest Germany, the Frauenkirche took nearly 200 years to complete, finishing in 1515. Remarkably, this positions it as Esslingen’s newest church. The 72-meter tower stands as a marvel of Gothic masonry adorned with almost ethereal tracery patterns.
Before entry, take a moment to appreciate the carvings on the southern tympanum depicting the Last Judgement and the Lie of Mary, alongside Saint George defeating the dragon on the northern side.
The choir showcases stained glass windows crafted around 1330, while those in the nave were created by 20th-century artist Hans Gottfried von Stockhausen, who produced over 500 stained glass windows across Germany post-war.
4. Villa Merkel
Esslingen’s art gallery is situated within a Historicist villa originally designed for industrialist Oscar Merkel in 1873, marking it as the first building in southern Germany constructed from concrete.
The property lies adjacent to the Neckar River, featuring a verdant garden embellished with amenities such as a winter house and a residence for the villa’s gardener.
Fifteen rooms within the villa are dedicated to showcasing international contemporary art exhibitions.
Typically, two to three concurrent exhibitions are held, either individual or group displays, all interlinked by a common theme.
Recently showcased contemporary artists include Lutz & Guggisberg, Melanie Smith, Emily Jacir, and Adrian Schiess.
5. Esslinger Castle
Positioned amid rows of vines overlooking the city, these fortifications were not designed as a residence for noble families.
Instead, they served a purely defensive role, activated repeatedly to defend against invading armies and raiders.
Entering the castle from Burgplatz to the north, one can observe the entire site from a cannon emplacement.
Nearby stands the stout, circular Powder Tower (Pulverturm) from the 16th century, alongside a meticulously designed apothecary garden.
Perhaps the most striking feature is the covered wall connecting the Powder Tower with the Fat Tower (Dicke Turm), which symbolizes Esslingen.
This walkway offers a panoramic view of Esslingen that is truly unforgettable.
6. Half-Timbered Houses
Alongside Göttingen and Limburg an der Lahn, Esslingen is renowned for possessing the oldest half-timbered houses in Germany.
Indeed, there are over 200 such houses, enriching the old town with romantic charm while representing distinct phases in the development of Alemannic architecture.
The oldest house, situated at Heugasse 3, dates back to 1262-63. Webergasse also features noteworthy houses from 1267 at addresses 6 and 8, with the oldest complete row of half-timbered houses in Germany located at Hafenmarkt.
If you are curious about the absence of houses predating the 13th century; prior to this, timber was buried directly into the ground, leading to decay after approximately 30 years.
Post-13th century, frameworks were constructed on stone bases, effectively preserving them.
7. Marktplatz
One of the few areas in Esslingen that lacks historical significance, the market square was formerly the site of the Katharinenspital, the city’s original hospital.
This establishment was demolished in 1811, coinciding with Esslingen’s expansion beyond its original city walls.
Nonetheless, this does not detract from the square’s beauty, which is framed by significant monuments like the Stadtkirche and extensive rows of gabled houses.
On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, a unique atmosphere envelops the square for the market, which offers flowers, Swabian delicacies, and fresh produce.
As Esslingen’s largest outdoor gathering space, Marktplatz serves as a venue for events such as the Bürgerfest in July and the Zwiebelfest (Onion Festival) in August.
8. Franziskanerkirche
The Franciscan order arrived in Esslingen around 1230, and construction commenced on a monumental church in 1270. Remarkably, this structure was completed swiftly, as the stained glass windows can be dated to 1320. Notably, these windows were painted with a newly developed shade of silver yellow that had only recently appeared in Paris, suggesting that Esslingen was at the forefront of artistic innovation in Swabia during that period.
In the 1300s, the monastery functioned as lodging for the Holy Roman Emperor, but after the Reformation, both the monastic structures and the nave were demolished.
Today, only the choir and the west wing of the monastery remain, yet they distinctly illustrate the magnitude of this complex in its prime.
9. Museum St. Dionys
If you are present in Esslingen on a Sunday afternoon, consider visiting the excavated crypt of the Stadtkirche.
Within, haunting remnants of the earliest churches of St Vitalis, constructed during the 8th and 10th centuries, can be observed.
The walls even bear the soot marks left by candles used by pilgrims centuries earlier.
Encased in glass and accompanied by informational panels, you can discern inscriptions, architectural fragments like columns, and jewelry recovered from the excavation.
Intriguingly, bones of ancient burials can be seen through the hardened soil.
One of the more macabre exhibits features a plaster cast of the preserved corpse of a plague victim from the 1650s.
10. Klein-Venedig
A remarkable sight that captures the affections of visitors in Esslingen is Klein Venedig (Little Venice), where the branches of the Neckar, including the Rossneckar and Wehrneckar, resemble Venetian canals.
15th-century half-timbered houses and watermills line the waterfront, while historic landmarks such as the towers of the Stadtkirche loom in the background.
The Innere Brücke crosses both channels, adorned with charming residences.
As you wander through this quaint quarter, you will encounter willow trees, ancient water wheels, cobblestone streets, and if you continue upstream toward the Neckar, you will eventually arrive at the 19th-century Wasserhaus dam, constructed along the lines of a Medieval covered bridge.
11. Grünanlage Maille
The largest park in the heart of Esslingen occupies most of the Schwemminsel, positioned between the two forks of the Neckar.
The name derives from palle-malle, a ball game that made its way to Germany from Italy in the 17th century, serving as a precursor to croquet.
This island in the densely built city remained predominantly empty due to the annual flooding of the Neckar, which continued until the dam was constructed.
Consider taking a brief respite from sightseeing by the river, where playgrounds for younger visitors and cafés offering coffee or refreshing drinks in the summer can be found.
12. Merkel’sches Schwimmbad
There is no more dignified venue for a swim than this Art Nouveau swimming pool established in 1907. Industrialist Oskar Merkel donated the pool to the city for public bathing, a gesture that earned him honorary citizenship.
This pool, crafted by Jugendstil virtuoso Hans Meyer, is worth a visit even if you plan to avoid swimming. Look up to admire the high stucco ceiling featuring a stained glass window depicting an Italian coastal landscape, with enchanting accents throughout, including wrought iron railings, classical statues, vintage clocks, and stone fountains.
For relaxation or muscle recovery, the Warmbadehalle (warm bathing hall) maintains water temperature at 30°C.
13. Wolfsturm
Constructed around 1220, the oldest defensive tower in Esslingen commanded a trade route traversing through the city from Speyer to Ulm.
On the outer side, adorning the portal alongside the Holy Roman Eagle, stands a pair of lions intricately carved in the 13th century.
These figures represent the enduring lineage of Hohenstaufen Holy Roman Emperors (Henry VII, Conrad IV, Rudolf von Habsburg), who maintained court in Esslingen during that era.
However, due to centuries of weathering and the Romanesque style of the sculptures, they now bear a resemblance more akin to wolves, which inspired the gate’s name.
14. Kessler Sekt
If there is a singular souvenir or gift to take from Esslingen, it would undoubtedly be a bottle or two of Kessler Sekt, a sparkling wine.
This is attributable to the fact that Esslingen was the first location in Germany to implement French secondary fermentation methods from the Champagne region.
The individual to credit for this advancement is Georg Christian Kessler, who returned with the knowledge after spending time in Reims.
Since his return in 1826, his venture has operated from a half-timbered former administrative building for monks behind the Stadtkirche.
What is less known is that beneath the streets of Esslingen lies a labyrinth of tunnels, spanning 2 kilometers, utilized for wine storage and fermentation.
There may be no finer way to commence a tour of the city than with a glass of sekt from the small bar at the front.
15. Medieval Market and Christmas Market
With its half-timbered houses and gabled town hall, Esslingen resembles a scene from a film during its Christmas market.
The primary location is the Rathausplatz; however, the festive stalls and activities overflow into adjacent streets and the neighboring Marktplatz.
From late November until the final days leading up to Christmas Day, a village of craft stalls appears, offering candles, decorations, handmade clothing, and traditional Christmas food and beverages.
For additional enchantment, there is also a medieval market where one can witness historical trades in progress, such as weaving, spinning, and smithing, as well as enjoy musical performances and witness fire-eaters.
To elevate the historical experience, visitors may indulge in mead and order roasted meats served straight from the spit.
