Contents Summary
This town in the eastern part of the Alentejo region served as the initial line of defense between two conflicting nations, and its historical significance is evident. Elvas boasts the most extensive collection of fortified structures globally, characterized by its numerous layers of history that necessitate a knowledgeable guide to appreciate the intricacies of its bastions, ravelins, curtains, and moats.
Visitors will enjoy navigating the maze of streets within the walls, where they will encounter churches, delightful squares, and museums. Additionally, magnificent star fortresses located outside the town serve as satellite defenses for those interested in military architecture.
Let’s explore the best attractions in Elvas:
1. Walls of Elvas
Spanning over five kilometers, the defensive walls of Elvas consist of several construction phases and distinct fortifications. Understanding the scale and complexity of these defenses can be challenging.
The initial construction commenced in the 1200s under Sancho I, with enhancements continuing more than 700 years later.
Visitors can explore three medieval walls, a monumental Vauban-style system from the 17th century, and several outer satellite forts constructed between the 17th and 19th centuries. Fortunately, guides are available to navigate the ditches, bastions, gates, and other features that might be overlooked.
2. Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça
This star fort, situated outside the primary defensive system on the elevated Monte da Graça, dates back to the late 18th century.
The strategic significance of its location was demonstrated a century earlier when the Spanish Army utilized this site during the Siege of Elvas in the Portuguese Restoration War.
The fort was subsequently tested in the early 19th century when it was shelled during the Peninsular Wars but successfully withstood the attack.
For those interested in the engineering techniques that rendered this fortress impregnable, extensive exploration opportunities are available.
The fort reopened in 2015 following a significant restoration effort.
3. Amoreira Aqueduct
In the 1500s, Elvas faced a water supply issue, as the sole well, dating back to Moorish times, was drying up. Consequently, the city undertook the ambitious project of channeling water from Amoreira, located eight kilometers away.
This aqueduct’s construction began in 1529 and concluded in 1622, with its most striking feature found at the southwestern city gates, where it traverses a valley with four tiers of arches.
4. Castelo de Elvas
Situated at the northernmost point of Elvas, this medieval castle represents the earliest component of the city’s defensive systems.
Established in the 700s when the Moors fortified the hill, this stronghold saw various ownership changes until the Moors eventually vacated the area between 1166 and 1230.
Visitors are encouraged to explore the exciting stone passages and staircases leading to the battlements, offering breathtaking views of the landscapes, including the proximity to the town of Badajoz to the west.
5. Igreja das Domínicas
Distinguished from the Igreja dos Domínicos (which is addressed later), this church, located at Largo de Santa Clara, was founded in 1528 and originally served a female convent for the Dominican Order.
Its architectural significance lies in its unique octagonal layout topped with a central dome. Inside, visitors will be amazed by the decor, as nearly every surface features patterned atapete tiles from the 17th century.
6. Museu de Arte Contemporânea
While Elvas is primarily known for its historical attractions, the contemporary art museum offers a refreshing glimpse into modern artistic expression. Established a decade ago within the exquisite Renaissance Misericórdia Hospital, the museum’s permanent exhibition showcases the collection of dealer Antóniocachola, featuring prominent figures in modern and contemporary Portuguese art such as Pedro Calapez, Rui Sanches, and José Pedro Croft.
Visitors should not miss the blue and white tiles in the auditorium, which date back to the 17th century. Additionally, a café on the roof boasts a terrace that provides an overview of the city.
7. Praça da República
Your exploration of the bewildering cobblestone streets should commence at this central square. The tourist office is located here, and the cathedral’s imposing facade marks the northern limit of the square.
To the south, visitors can find the old city hall, featuring a charming loggia that can be enjoyed from a café terrace within the square. The square’s distinctive paving consists of calçada portuguesa (traditional Portuguese pavement) with a modern interpretation, incorporating marble, sandstone, and basalt tiles laid in an eye-catching geometric pattern.
8. Elvas Cathedral
Francisco de Arruda, Portugal’s foremost architect in the early 16th century, contributed significantly to the design of Elvas Cathedral, as well as the aqueduct, following his work on the national treasure, the Torre de Belém.
The Manueline elements remain prominent on the lateral portal, which features a multifoil arch and intricate vegetal carvings. The central nave also boasts meticulously sculpted pillars and vaults, while later 18th-century modifications, including an altar carved from Estremoz marble and Baroque woodwork on the organ case, enrich the overall decor.
9. Largo Santa Clara
This charming triangular square, hosting the Igreja das Domínicas, may be the most visually appealing location in Elvas. Enclosed by a section of the 10th-century walls, it features whitewashed houses adorned with green and yellow accents.
Attention is drawn to the historic pillory, which served as a symbol of authority during public punishments. The 16th-century monument, constructed in the Manueline style, features a twisting column topped with a pinnacle, having been relocated from the nearby town of Ouguela after the original was destroyed.
10. Forte Santa Luzia
Constructed in the 1640s, this fort is 150 years older than Nossa Senhora da Graça and is situated a few kilometers southeast of the city.
It faced repeated sieges during the Portuguese Restoration War and notably endured a Spanish assault in 1658, culminating in the decisive Portuguese victory at the Battle of the Lines of Elvas in 1659.
The fort features a museum detailing the battle’s events along with information on other border wars, showcasing weapons from the medieval era to the 1800s. Visitors can explore the tunnels and gun positions, which still house vintage cannons.
11. Museu Militar de Elvas
It is noteworthy that Elvas maintained a military presence until 2008 when the 8th Infantry Regiment departed. The barracks have since been transformed into the city’s military museum, providing an enlightening experience considering the extensive conflict history of Elvas.
The exhibition includes a significant section of the wall, where detailed information panels explain its fortified elements. Outside, various pieces of heavy artillery are found, alongside exhibits centered on the history of cavalry, communications, and military medicine, featuring an operating room, veterinary surgery, and pharmacy.
12. Igreja dos Domínicos
Also referred to as Igreja de São Domingos, this convent church was founded in 1274 under the directives of King Afonso III. It serves as a vital representation of Portugal’s cultural history.
The church retains its Gothic purity in the apse and five chapels; however, Baroque modifications in the 1700s remodeled the facade and enriched the interior with gilded woodcarving and azulejos. In the 20th century, the Estado Novo regime mandated that Gothic churches should revert to their original designs, resulting in a blend where one half of the church remains Baroque and the other is Gothic.
13. Ponte da Ajuda
This bridge, which historically crossed the Guadiana River and marked the Portuguese-Spanish border, dates back to 1520 during the reign of Manuel I. Over the following 200 years, it faced repeated destruction due to flooding and conflicts, with quick repairs being made.
The bridge’s demise occurred during the War of Spanish Succession in 1709 when it was demolished by Spanish artillery. It has since slowly deteriorated, yet several arches remain intact, affording visitors a moment to reflect amidst the tranquility of the surrounding countryside.
14. Cemitério dos Ingleses
Notably, the oldest military treaty still in effect is the 1373 Anglo-Portuguese Alliance, which brought British soldiers to Elvas during the early 19th century for the Peninsular Wars. Adjacent to the medieval castle on the eastern wall of the city, a British cemetery hosts only five marked graves.
Among these are the only two recorded graves from the Battle of Albuera in 1811, as well as the sole marked grave from the Sieges of Badajoz. Given the significant loss of life in both conflicts, this site holds immense value for military history enthusiasts.
Moreover, it offers a pleasant, shaded area under the chestnut trees to escape the sun momentarily.
15. Food and Drink
The municipal market, an important historical building dating back to the early 18th century, provides an atmospheric setting for grocery shopping. Among the local specialties, the Elvas plum stands out. These plums are cooked, treated with sugar, and sun-dried, resulting in a sweet delicacy sold at premium prices in specialty shops abroad but available at reasonable costs here.
Typical restaurant menus feature traditional dishes such as lamb stew, pork ribs, and bacalhau dourado (cod baked with shredded potatoes). On hot summer days, a refreshing bowl of gazpacho—room temperature vegetable soup—serves as a perfect complement to the warm climate.