Durres is a dynamic port city exhibiting both modern and ancient charm. For those seeking sunshine and leisure, the waterfront serves as Albania’s largest and most vibrant beach, bustling with activity throughout the summer months. Additionally, Durres is rich with Roman and Byzantine heritage; visitors can explore the remnants of Albania’s largest amphitheater, as well as city fortifications and forums dating back 1,500 years. Moreover, a journey inland reveals the castle where the Albanian national hero Skanderbeg successfully resisted three Ottoman sieges in the 1400s, or one may proceed to Tirana, the nation’s capital.
Summary
1. Durres Amphitheatre
This amphitheatre is among the most significant examples of ancient architecture in Albania, if not the entire Balkans. Constructed in 100 AD under Emperor Hadrian, it remained undiscovered until the 1960s. For approximately 300 years, it accommodated as many as 20,000 spectators. Its grand scale and the archaeological interest it generates, particularly regarding the building’s adaptation to Christianity—evident from the chapel adorned with exquisite mosaics—enhance its historical importance.
2. Durres Castle
This historic site comprises a singular tower and wall, frequently referred to as the Venetian Tower. It dates back to the 400s, during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Anastasius I, who was born in this city. Over the centuries, Durres Castle has seen substantial action, having been fortified by the Venetians prior to the Ottomans’ conquest. In 1939, it served as a stronghold for a group of Albanian patriots resisting the Italian army’s advance.
3. Durres Beach
Durres Beach stands as Albania’s premier spot for coastal relaxation, extending over ten kilometers along the city’s waterfront. The urban section of the beach becomes particularly lively during summer, bustling with visitors from various backgrounds. It features a multitude of activities, ranging from recreational games to water sports. Additionally, vendors traverse the beach, offering a variety of refreshments and snacks, often utilizing donkeys to transport their goods.
4. Royal Villa of Durres
Although the Albanian monarchy, which existed from 1928 to 1939, has been abolished for over seventy years, the Royal Villa remains an intriguing relic from that period. Constructed in 1937 for King Zog I, he only resided there for one year before the monarchy’s dissolution. Subsequently, it transformed into a communist reception hall, hosting notable figures, including Nikita Khrushchev and Jimmy Carter. The villa was vandalized during the civil disturbances of 1997 and remains unchanged since.
5. Archaeological Museum
As Albania’s largest archaeological museum, it showcases the diverse legacies of various civilizations that settled in the region. Located just a short walk from the waterfront, the museum was established in 1951 and features collections that span from Ancient Illyrian culture to the Roman era, Byzantine period, and Ottoman rule. Notably, the Roman collections include exquisite miniature busts of Venus and ornate stone sarcophagi. The museum has a remarkable history itself; it suffered looting during the 1997 unrest and has recently undergone renovations.
6. Byzantine Forum
Located in the heart of Durres, the modest remnants of colonnades compose the forum of Macellum after the Roman era. Dating from the 600s to the 800s, the forum’s pavement is composed of excavated marble stones, and visitors can closely observe the detailed carvings of the Corinthian columns. Previously, a statue of the reigning Byzantine emperor would have adorned the plaza’s center. Nearby, the remnants of Durres’ Roman thermal baths, discovered alongside the amphitheatre in the 1960s, can also be explored.
7. Durres Mosques
Durres features two notable mosques, each representing the city’s interrupted religious history during communist rule. The Great Mosque, the more recent of the two, was constructed in 1931 by King Zog I, built upon the foundations of an older Ottoman structure. After 1967, its minaret was dismantled, and the mosque was repurposed as a center for local youth activities. The Fatih Mosque, which dates back to 1503, is significantly older and was closed during the communist era; it was later designated an Albanian cultural monument in the 1970s.
8. Spille Beach
Located a few kilometers south of Durres, near Kavaje, Spille Beach offers an escape from the bustling waterfront of Durres. Ideal for visitors desiring a tranquil seaside experience, it draws fewer crowds, allowing for ample space to relax year-round. Although secluded, the beach provides all necessary amenities, including chair and parasol rentals, alongside fruit vendors offering fresh produce throughout the day.
9. Tirana
Transportation to Tirana, Albania’s capital, is easily accessible by bus. Here, one can observe the intersection of the nation’s past and present. To appreciate the remnants of Soviet architecture, a visit to the Piramida is essential; this building has remained vacant since the fall of communism and was originally erected as a monument to dictator Enver Hoxha. Additionally, tourists can explore Bunk’Art, a fascinating nuclear bunker constructed during the 1970s that contains approximately one hundred rooms, resembling an underground city.
10. Krujë Castle
To witness a significant chapter in Albania’s history, a visit to Krujë Castle, associated with the national hero Skanderbeg, is highly recommended. In the 1400s, this fortress successfully resisted the Ottoman Empire during three military sieges under the command of Mehmed II. The national significance of the castle is exemplified by its appearance on the Albanian 500 Lekë banknote. Within the gothic structure, an exhibition dedicated to Skanderbeg provides further historical context, while the stunning upland scenery at an elevation of 550 metres invites contemplation.
11. Krujë Bazaar
The Krujë Bazaar reflects a preserved commercial district from the 18th and 19th centuries. Stretching from the castle gates to the heart of Krujë, the market features a single cobblestone street lined with vendors offering various goods from wooden stalls. Strolling through the bazaar reveals local artisans engaged in their crafts, providing visitors the opportunity to acquire hand-carved wooden items, bottle of local raki, or handmade textiles as souvenirs.
12. Shën Mëhill Basilica
Situated in Arapaja, a suburb of Durres, the ruins of St. Michael’s Basilica represent a paleo-Christian church originating from 400 AD. Rediscovered during archaeological excavations in 1974, the site revealed several remarkable architectural features. Of particular note is the expansive and intricately designed mosaic that spans 54 square meters, which has remained in excellent condition due to its burial beneath the earth for centuries. Additional remnants include the church’s naves and a pillar fragment adorned with a decorative relief.
13. Via Egnatia
Historically, Durres, also known as Dyrrachium, served as the gateway to Southern Europe for visitors from Italy. During Roman times, a road originating from Durres led directly to Byzantium (modern Istanbul). For those inclined to hike, a portion of Via Egnatia can be traced, following in the footsteps of ancient merchants and legionnaires. The complete route extends an impressive 475 kilometers from Durres to Thessaloniki in Greece, so expect it to be a substantial undertaking.
14. Rodoni Castle
For an adventurous outing, one can follow the coastal road northward to this picturesque fortress located on a rugged peninsula. Following the initial Ottoman attack on Krujë Castle, Albania’s feudal leaders sought to enhance the coastal defenses, resulting in the construction of Rodoni Castle in 1452. It originally dominated the tip of the cape. Although the Ottomans eventually seized control in the 1460s, Skanderbeg utilized Rodoni Castle as a launch point to escape to Brindisi, Italy.
15. Shtam Pass National Park
One can enjoy the expansive mountain vistas of this national park from the comfort of their vehicle. The roadway from Krujë to Burrel winds through the park, reaching elevations of 1,250 meters. Visitors pass through vast tracts of unspoiled pine forests and periodically encounter steep drops along the route. The Kroi i Nenës Mbretëreshë (Source of the Queen Mother), a natural spring that has been developed for public use, allows visitors to refill their water bottles. This spring was historically significant for the Albanian royal family, who relied on its water supply during the 1930s.