Summary
- Roman Bridge of Chaves
- Praça de Camões
- Museu da Região Flaviense
- Igreja de Santa Maria Maior
- Castle of Chaves
- Igreja da Misericórdia de Chaves
- Jardim Público de Chaves
- Forte de São Neutel
- Hot Spring
- Museu de Arte Contemporânea Nadir Afonso
- Pedra Bolideira
- Vinho dos Mortos
- Spa Tourism
- Castelo de Monforte
- Local Food
The town of Chaves, located in the northern region of Portugal, has a rich history dating back to Roman times. The Romans established a city around the thermal springs and constructed a stone bridge that still displays its Latin inscriptions.
Moving forward over a millennium, we arrive at the era of Dom Afonso I, the illegitimate son of King John I, who played a pivotal role in founding the House of Braganza in Chaves. This dynasty would govern Portugal and Brazil until the 20th century. The town features a castle, several magnificent churches, the palace of Dom Afonso, which houses a museum dedicated to the city’s Roman archaeological heritage, along with the hottest spring waters in either Portugal or Spain.
Let us examine the most notable activities in Chaves:
1. Roman Bridge of Chaves
Commonly referred to as Trajan’s Bridge, this structure dates back to the early 2nd century.
Like most bridges, it has undergone repairs and refurbishments throughout the years; however, the arches remain in the same configurations as they were 2,000 years ago, despite some being obscured by adjacent buildings.
The two commemorative columns, which retain their Latin inscriptions, are the best evidence of the bridge’s historical significance.
In 1980, a third column was discovered upstream in the riverbed and is now displayed at the Museu da Região Flaviense.
2. Praça de Camões
In Chaves, the elegant central square, surrounded by historic houses and civic monuments, is not to be missed. The square lacks any modern constructions that might detract from the authentic atmosphere, and you will find several café terraces inviting you to pause and enjoy the scenery.
Prominently positioned before the town hall is a statue of Dom Afonso I, the 15th-century Duke of Braganza, who resided in the Paço dos Duques de Bragança.
This figure initiated the lineage that would lead to numerous Portuguese Kings and Brazilian Emperors.
3. Museu da Região Flaviense
This museum, located in Dom Afonso I’s residence, exhibits the finest monuments and artefacts from the ancient Roman city of Aquae Flaviae.
The palace dates back to 1446 and received a new facade in the 18th century.
Among the Roman relics are Corinthian columns, funerary steles, and the inscribed bridge marker retrieved from the Tâmega River in 1980. The museum also highlights the area’s rich prehistory, featuring a 4,000-year-old life-sized stone carving distinctly depicting a woman.
4. Igreja de Santa Maria Maior
Across from the town hall on Praça de Camões stands the city’s austere parish church, which likely dates back to the period immediately following the Reconquista in the 12th century.
Constructed on Visigothic foundations, its Romanesque design features later Renaissance alterations.
The historical elements are identifiable in the bell tower and the portal, both displaying primitive stonework.
The interior showcases a stark beauty characterized by wooden beams across the ceiling and bare granite walls.
The church’s primary attraction is the Baroque organ, adorned with gilded wood-carvings of cherubs.
5. Castle of Chaves
This imposing square tower is the last vestige of a castle established in the 10th century when Chaves changed hands between Christian and Moorish forces.
Commissioned by King Denis I, the castle was completed at the dawn of the 14th century and showcases a range of architectural styles from Renaissance to Late Gothic.
The 17th-century Vauban-style walls, complemented by a garden, remain equipped with cannons.
A collection of military artefacts is housed within the tower, and visitors can ascend four sets of stairs to enjoy views of the city and the expansive Trás-os-Montes landscapes.
6. Igreja da Misericórdia de Chaves
Also situated on Praça de Camões is this lavish 17th-century Baroque church, which was formerly connected to the city’s hospital.
The façade is striking, featuring three archways and solomonic columns. While the interior is compact, it is filled with captivating details.
The nave is adorned with exquisite 18th-century blue and white tiles that illustrate biblical narratives.
Above the entrance, a statue of Christ, utilized in Chaves’ Holy Week processions, can be found alongside the classic gilt-wood altar, characteristic of Baroque architecture in Northern Portugal.
7. Jardim Público de Chaves
The oldest public park in Chaves, located on the left bank of the Tâmega, was generously gifted to the town by banker Cândido Sotto Mayor in the early 20th century.
This act of kindness is commemorated with a bust of him located along the park’s main pathway.
Long before it became public, this area was planted with centuries-old deciduous and coniferous trees.
Visitors can find towering cedars by the riverside and a charming wrought iron bandstand.
Additionally, the park provides excellent vantage points for capturing photographs of the Roman Bridge upstream.
8. Forte de São Neutel
Located on the northern outskirts of the town, this 17th-century fort is one of two notable military structures in Chaves.
The other, Forte de São Francisco, now functions as a pousada (heritage hotel). Constructed during the Portuguese Restoration War in the 17th century, Forte de São Neutel features a star-shaped design.
For those intrigued by military architecture, this fort displays innovative elements from its time, including ravelins, bastions, and ramps.
The main enclosure contains a picturesque Mannerist chapel, a commemorative inscription at the entrance, and a well situated in the interior moat.
9. Hot Spring
The renowned spring in Chaves emerges at Jardim do Tabolado, on the right bank of the Tâmega, adjacent to the medieval quarter.
This thermal spring issues water at a temperature ranging from 73-76°C, claimed to be the warmest on the Iberian Peninsula.
The lightly carbonated water contains an alkali composition believed to benefit skin ailments, high blood pressure, and digestive issues.
Reflect on the remarkable journey of this water as it rises from profound depths through several layers of igneous rock.
Visitors can stroll down to the river, where stepping stones enable them to cross the water.
10. Museu de Arte Contemporânea Nadir Afonso
Álvaro Siza Vieira, one of Portugal’s architectural luminaries, has designed significant buildings worldwide.
Recently, he was tasked with creating this elegant museum on the right bank of the Tâmega to honor Nadir Afonso, a distinguished geometric abstractionist painter who hailed from Chaves.
The museum, which opened in July 2016, exclusively features Afonso’s artwork, categorizing it by his different phases, from surrealism in the 1940s to his “fractal” period in the early 21st century.
A video presentation is available to familiarize visitors with Afonso’s life and artistic contributions.
11. Pedra Bolideira
Situated in the countryside east of Chaves, this peculiar natural phenomenon is enveloped by pristine nature.
The Pedra Bolideira is an enormous granite boulder balanced on a smaller rock, allowing a single person to make it sway gently.
Individuals can either lean in and push it or lie down and leverage their legs.
The surreal experience of moving something weighing at least ten tons with such ease has earned this site considerable affection among locals.
12. Vinho dos Mortos
The wine-making village of Boticas, located to the west of Chaves, maintains a unique tradition of burying its wine.
This practice originated during the Peninsular Wars when villagers buried their bottles to safeguard them from Napoleon’s army.
Upon retrieval, they discovered that the wine had aged remarkably, coining the term ‘vinho dos mortos’ (wine of the dead). This tradition continues, as the absence of light and the consistent temperature underground greatly enhance the wine’s quality.
Bottles can be acquired from the village’s agricultural cooperative.
13. Spa Tourism
Chaves experienced a resurgence as a spa resort towards the end of the 19th century, attracting numerous visitors seeking its therapeutic waters.
The Termas de Chaves, or Spa do Imperador, serves as the ideal destination for spa treatments or relaxation.
The extensive treatment menu includes both traditional and novel therapies such as hydrotherapy, hydromassage, Vichy showers, and various massage techniques.
14. Castelo de Monforte
There is another National Monument located fewer than ten kilometres from Chaves.
Despite its abandonment, this castle is remarkably well-preserved, providing a captivating backdrop against the Águas Livres valley and the village of Águas Frias.
Like the Castle of Chaves, Monforte underwent reinforcements during the reign of King Denis I, and in its prime, it featured three grand towers overseeing the keep.
These towers were later supplanted by bastions during the Portuguese Restoration War in the 17th century, leading to its eventual ruin, albeit with intermittent efforts to maintain its structure.
Cautious adventurers can capture stunning photographs of the picturesque scenery from the castle walls.
15. Local Food
A discussion about the local delicacies in Chaves would be incomplete without mentioning presunto ham.
This dry-cured ham bears similarities to Italian prosciutto or Spanish jamón.
The region’s chilly winters historically necessitated continuous fires, which subsequently led to months of smoking ham legs.
The same preservation method applies to locally cured sausages such as alheiras.
These cold cuts serve excellently as bar snacks or starters, or as fillings for baked trout.
Meat predominates nearly every local dish, with options ranging from roast goat to Transmontana casserole, featuring assorted cuts of pork and vegetables.
The pastel de Chaves is a protected puff pastry filled traditionally with veal or more contemporary variants like cheese, presunto, or chocolate.