Summary of Attractions in Castres
Once a prominent textile town in southwestern France, Castres has been an industrial and commercial hub for over 2,000 years.
This historical significance is evident along the banks of the River Agout, where medieval tanners’ houses feature basement doors for easy access to water.
During the 17th century, Castres hosted a significant court to adjudicate disputes between Catholics and Protestants. The elegant Renaissance mansions constructed for these magistrates are remarkable symbols of culture that still grace the city four centuries later.
André Le Nôtre, who is renowned for his work at Versailles, also designed the gardens of Castres’ episcopal palace.
Furthermore, this distinguished building houses the finest collection of Spanish art in France, showcasing works by Goya, Vélasquez, and Picasso.
1. Musée Goya
This prominent cultural venue, the Goya Museum, is a veritable treasure trove of Spanish art.
Francisco Goya serves as the centerpiece of the collection, represented by four paintings and four engravings.
Additionally, notable works by Murillo, Vélasquez, and Zurbarán enhance the collection.
The 20th-century gallery features pieces by Picasso, Juan Gris, and Antoni Clavé.
It is the only museum in France that provides such a thorough overview of Spanish art, along with ceramics, weaponry, and pre-Columbian decorative artifacts.
The museum’s setting is noteworthy as well; this palace was designed by Mansart, the architect behind Versailles, while André Le Nôtre crafted the gardens, as shall be discussed further.
2. Agout Riverside
A memorable aspect of Castres is the eclectic collection of cantilevered houses, which appear to be vying for space as they extend over the Agout River.
These residences once served artisans, such as tanners and dyers, who relied on river water for their basement laundries.
One may pause for a photograph and enjoy the view from the terrace at the Quai des Jacobins.
Each house on the right bank possesses a unique character: some adorned with tiles, others displaying vibrant colors, and some showcasing open wooden galleries alongside elegant square bay windows.
3. Centre National et Musée Jean-Jaurès
Jean Jaurès, a significant figure in French politics and an early advocate for social democracy, was assassinated on the eve of World War I due to his pacifist beliefs.
He opposed colonization and fervently advocated for the separation of church and state, leaving a legacy that is honored across numerous streets and squares in France.
A native of Castres, Jaurès’s museum delves into the political climate and events occurring during his career at the turn of the century.
This establishment serves as a valuable resource for students and academics, in addition to housing a permanent exhibition of documents, photographs, caricatures, and personal artifacts.
4. Place Jean Jaurès
Shortly after the conclusion of World War I, Castres’ central square was named to honor Jean Jaurès, accompanied by a statue situated towards the Quai des Jacobins. Castres has adapted to the French trend of pedestrianizing city centers, with Place Jean Jaurès becoming car-free in 2005. The presence of restaurant and café tables enhances the area’s sociable atmosphere, and an outdoor market occurs every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday morning.
The architecture is equally grand, featuring rows of flowing arcades that have been transformed into bars and shops, with the exception of the eastern side of the square.
5. Hôtel de Poncet
John Ligonier’s story is fascinating; he was the son of Protestant Huguenots compelled to flee France for England at the age of five, ultimately rising to the rank of Field Marshal in the British Army.
The familial home located in Castres, known as the Hôtel de Poncet, features an impressive façade adorned with exquisite Renaissance sculptures.
This structure dates back to the mid-17th century and showcases a princely loggia supported by pairs of Doric columns, complemented by a balustrade that rests on four uniquely designed caryatids (sculpted figures substituting columns).
6. Jardin de l’Évêché
The beautifully landscaped gardens of the Bishopric behind the episcopal palace were also designed by André Le Nôtre in the 17th century.
Remarkably, over 300 years later, the meticulously trimmed boxwood hedges still mirror the original design.
These hedges form an intricate and stylized natural embellishment that invites visitors to step back for a better perspective.
The gardens consist of two formal parterres, four English flowerbeds, and a chestnut grove at the rear.
Additionally, the gardens have an irregular trapezoidal shape, designed intentionally to appear symmetrical from the palace windows.
7. Mansions
Alongside the Hôtel de Poncet, numerous outstanding examples of Renaissance architecture are available to discover while strolling through Castres.
Most of these structures date from the reign of Henri IV, who selected Castres as the site for the Court of the Chamber of the Edict.
As a result, magistrates and various officials required luxurious residences, giving rise to elegant mansions like the Hôtel de Nayrac.
This mansion surrounds a courtyard and is characterized by the distinctive Toulouse-style blend of limestone and brick.
The Hôtel Viviès, constructed during the same period for a lawyer in the Chamber of the Edict, displays its sculpted portal bearing the coat of arms of the Rozel family.
8. Sidobre
A short drive north leads to steepening terrain as one enters the southern foothills of the Massif Central.
At the southernmost point of this range lies the Sidobre, an expansive granite plateau replete with unique rock formations.
The Maison de Sidobre serves as a tourist center, providing maps and suggestions for various walks and activities.
In terms of the sheer volume of extraordinary granite boulders, this region is unparalleled in Europe, and the various mythological tales surrounding these rocks only add to their intrigue.
Additionally, it serves as an excellent play area for children, particularly with the “Rivière des Rochers,” a river valley filled with boulders.
9. Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Platée
This church was constructed in the 17th century and is the fifth establishment built on this location.
The previous churches date back to the 1000s, with the one prior to the current structure being destroyed by Protestants during the Wars of Religion in the 1500s.
While the architecture is aesthetically pleasing, what draws visitors to this church is located high atop the tower, accessible via 120 steps.
A Flemish-style carillon featuring 33 bells, installed in 1847, has operated continuously. Visitors during the period from December 17 to 23 can listen to the special Nadalet chime played daily from 18:30 to 19:30.
10. Coche d’Eau
Until the late 1800s, numerous boats of this design would have been observed navigating the River Agout and adjoining canals, transporting individuals and goods.
These vessels feature very shallow hulls, allowing them to traverse the river’s shallow waters: The current Miredames has a draft of less than 40 centimeters and was built in 1990, following the original 18th-century design.
During the height of summer, six trips daily are scheduled on the Miredames from the port in the center of Castres to the Parc de Gourjade, a 20-minute journey upriver.
11. Parc de Gourjade
The destination for the Coche d’Eau is this extensive 53-hectare park, acquired by the city in the 1970s.
Visitors could enjoy a picnic by the riverside, bringing along a baguette, cheese, charcuterie, and a bottle of wine.
In addition to the picnic opportunities, the park offers a variety of activities, including a comprehensive network of miniature trains that delight children, an adventure playground, and a mini-golf course.
For golfing enthusiasts, a nine-hole par 36 course is also available, ensuring plenty of activities for a leisurely day in Castres.
12. Castres Cathedral
The Wars of Religion also had significant repercussions for the town’s cathedral, which underwent reconstruction during the 17th and 18th centuries.
This church is characterized by its extravagant Baroque style, intended to evoke awe among worshippers through its grand proportions and elaborate decoration.
This is particularly evident in the choir, adorned with statues and towering columns made from Caunes marble, and in the narrow yet lofty nave.
Antiquity enthusiasts may find the external tower interesting, as its lower levels exhibit Lombard Romanesque architectural elements, dating back to the 11th century.
13. CERAC – Archéopôle
Located in the Parc de Gourjade, Castres’ Centre for Archaeological Study and Research offers free entry.
While the exhibition space is relatively modest, the galleries rotate exhibits every few months to highlight different periods of Castres’ history.
Depending on your timing, you might encounter exhibitions featuring 18th-century faience from Albi, Neolithic hand axes, medieval ceramics, or artifacts that reference Gallo-Roman trade along the banks of the Agout.
CERAC’s archives encompass items ranging from the Palaeolithic to the 20th century, inviting visitors to engage with the exhibits with an open mind.
14. Castres Olympique
Enthusiastic rugby supporters are likely already familiar with Castres, who claimed victory in the Top 14 league as recently as 2013. As France boasts the richest rugby league globally, it has attracted numerous international stars in recent seasons.
Therefore, for newcomers to the sport, attending a Castres Olympique match is an excellent introduction.
In 2017, their fullback Geoffrey Palis represented France in the Six Nations while players such as Rodrigo Capó Ortega, Benjamín Urdapilleta, and Horacio Agulla have accumulated many caps for Uruguay and Argentina.
The team plays at the cozy yet vibrant Stade Piere-Antoine, which accommodates 11,500 fans, the least capacity in the league yet hosts one of its most prestigious teams.
15. Gastronomy
Dining in Castres offers the enjoyable opportunity to experience a meal that showcases local and regional specialties in every course.
The appetizer might consist of melsât, a traditional charcuterie prepared from pork offal that tastes far superior to its description, or bougnette, another cold-cut featuring pork belly, breadcrumbs, and egg sliced into portions.
A main course could include confit duck (salt-cured) or cassoulet, a rich dish combining pork and poultry, slowly cooked with white haricot beans.
Dessert features poumpet, a delicate pastry filled with a lemon and Bergamot orange paste, a recipe introduced by the Moors during the Middle Ages.
