Summary
In south-central France, the picturesque town of Aurillac serves as the capital of the hilly Cantal Department. Surrounded by gentle green hills, this area conceals a more turbulent history, stemming from the remains of the largest stratovolcano in Europe, measuring 70 by 50 kilometers and reaching heights of 4,000 meters. The modern landscape you will encounter features undulating hills that are home to the shaggy Salers cows.
Aurillac is a charming town set on a steep slope, characterized by houses and monuments crafted from pinkish basalt. This locale embraces the arts, hosting a street theatre festival in August that attracts troupes from across the globe. Let us explore the noteworthy activities in Aurillac:
1. Château de Saint-Étienne
Perched high above Aurillac, this castle dates back to the 800s. Today, it presents a fusion of medieval architecture alongside a later 19th-century mansion. The imposing medieval keep contrasts with the more elegant rounded towers of the newer château, which was inspired by the famed Papal Palace in Avignon. This structure not only houses the Volcano Museum, which will be discussed shortly, but also serves as a regional hub for environmental initiatives. Even if you choose not to visit the museum, the ascent offers splendid vistas overlooking Aurillac from the upper terrace.
2. Muséum des Volcans
Four halls located in the left wing of the Château de Saint-Étienne comprise this comprehensive museum dedicated to volcanic phenomena. Through the integration of models, computer terminals, and an extensive mineral collection collected in the 18th and 19th centuries, visitors gain insights into the functioning of volcanoes and their effects on life. The first room elucidates the inner workings of the Earth, exploring how volcanoes and mountains form, followed by exhibits detailing the geology of the Cantal region. A gallery illustrates humanity’s relationship with volcanoes, culminating in the transformation of the Cantal landscape since the glaciers retreated.
3. Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie
Located in a 17th-century Visitandine convent that later transitioned into the National Stud Farm, this museum provides a valuable glimpse into local history while also showcasing significant artworks. History enthusiasts will appreciate artifacts such as Neolithic tools, including a double-edged polished axe. Notably, an excavation at the Roman Temple of Aron in Aurillac unearthed an undamaged funeral coffer with a glass urn. For art lovers, a highlight on the second floor is a sculpture by Camille Claudel, who had a storied relationship with Rodin, alongside a section on umbrellas, commemorating Aurillac’s past as a leading producer of half of France’s umbrellas.
4. Théâtre d’Aurillac
While in Aurillac, consider visiting the local theatre, an impressive stone structure located on Rue de la Coste. As a cultural cornerstone of the region, Aurillac promotes performing arts, featuring a diverse program that includes dance, various music genres, literary discussions, poetry recitations, magic shows, and live comedy. Additionally, the theatre’s gallery regularly showcases short-term exhibitions that emphasize contemporary painting, photography, and graphic design.
5. Festival d’Aurillac
During August, the town of Aurillac is transformed as it welcomes over 100,000 visitors for the annual street theatre festival. This event has been celebrated for more than three decades and features street performers from around the globe. Approximately 500 troupes participate each year, bringing joy, whimsy, and magic to the streets for four exhilarating days. Throughout the day, numerous smaller performances take place across Aurillac, culminating in a grand celebration each evening.
Leading up to the festival is the smaller “Les Préalables” event, where various theatre companies arrive in Aurillac to introduce themselves to the community.
6. Gorges de la Jordanne
Over the centuries, the River Jordanne has carved a stunning canyon from the local volcanic breccia, reaching depths from 20 to 60 meters and extending approximately four kilometers through deciduous forests. This area offers a family-friendly experience, featuring a designated walking trail that traverses the river twice via wooden bridges. Quiet footsteps may reward you with glimpses of otters in the water. As the ravine steepens, wooden walkways ensure safe passage, ultimately leading to the breathtaking Liadouze waterfall.
7. Château de Pesteils
Similar to the Château de Saint-Étienne, this magnificent 15th-century property is situated on a steep rocky promontory, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The castle features imposing towers with machicolations, which were complemented by more refined living quarters added in the 1600s. A significant refurbishment occurred in the early 20th century, during which the interiors were adorned in the current Neo-Gothic style. Intriguingly, the château houses 20 wax figures representing the noble Pesteils family, crafted by the Musée Grévin in Paris. Upon visiting Aurillac’s tourist center, inquire about any special events scheduled at the château during the summer months. Medieval-themed days often feature jesters, jousting, and sword-fighting stunt shows.
8. Abbaye Saint-Géraud
While currently functioning as a parish church, the Abbaye Saint-Géraud was established in the 9th century. Historically, it served as a respected center of education, with Pope Sylvester II (also known as Gerbert) having studied here in the 10th century. The church has endured several tumultuous periods, including the French Wars of Religion in the 16th century, during which it was destroyed by Calvinists, necessitating its reconstruction in the 19th century. Although little of the original structure remains, this site is notable for having hosted prominent figures of the early Middle Ages, including Robert II of France, Pope Urban II, and Pope Sylvester II.
9. Place Gerbert
This square, located by the Jordanne River, commemorates Gerbert (Pope Sylvester II). His statue, crafted by renowned 19th-century artist David d’Angers, stands prominently across from Alexis Joseph Delzons, a son of Aurillac who achieved the rank of general at a young age during the First Empire and tragically perished at the Battle of Maloyaroslavets. Place Gerbert offers a beautiful riverside scene, characterized by pollarded plane trees, rustic houses with wooden balconies, and an old wooden lavoir that served the community for laundry.
10. Place Saint-Géraud
The tree-lined square in front of the Abbaye Saint-Géraud presents an inviting space for reflection on the church’s architectural beauty, while also narrating its own history. Among the structures here, the Ancienne Hôtellerie stands out due to its age, evident from the Romanesque arches on its facade. This building historically served as a hostel for pilgrims visiting the abbey along the Way of St. James pilgrimage route. Additionally, the central fountain, carved from serpentine rock, offers a contrast in color to the pink-hued surrounding buildings, having been a part of the abbey and dating back to the 1100s.
11. Église Notre-Dame-aux-Neiges
This exquisite 15th-century church, constructed from volcanic stone, originated from a former monastery. The Notre-Dame-aux-Neiges was formerly associated with the Convent of the Cordeliers and retains some of its historical monastic structures. The church’s sacristy occupies the former chapter room, which showcases remnants of vibrant medieval decorations. Be sure to take a moment to admire the Romanesque Black Virgin statue in the oratory, showcasing her in golden robes with the infant Jesus on her lap.
12. Route des Crêtes
The scenic Cantal mountains, with their rounded peaks and lush grassy slopes, should not be overlooked. The area is interwoven with hiking trails and mountain biking paths, providing opportunities for exploration. However, for those preferring a more comfortable experience, the Route des Crêtes, which commences in Aurillac and meanders towards the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Park, offers an exceptional journey. Multiple locations along the route allow for parking to capture photographs or explore walking paths for a brief interlude. This route holds particular significance for cycling enthusiasts, having been featured in several Tours de France.
13. Plomb du Cantal
Further within the Regional Park lies the tallest peak of the Cantal Range, the Plomb de Cantal, which ascends to 1,855 meters, making it the highest mountain in the Massif Central, aside from the Puy de Sancy. Today, the majestic landscape is a remarkable sight, yet millions of years ago, prior to its collapse, it towered at approximately 4,000 meters with a diameter of 80 kilometers. Despite its imposing size, the mountain is easily accessible, offering multiple routes to reach the summit: a cable car operates for convenience, alternatively, visitors can ascend from the lower cable car station in about 90 minutes, or take a mountain bike ride from the Prat-de-Bouc pass.
14. Tournemire
Much like Aurillac, the delightful village of Tournemire is constructed from volcanic basalt and is perched in an elevated location that offers breathtaking views. Situated high above the Doire River on an escarpment on the right bank of the valley, the scenery of the surrounding woodlands and fields is captivating. The Château d’Anjony, built from the same pinkish basalt, spans from the 15th to the 17th centuries. This enchanting castle contains a knights’ hall, a chapel adorned with medieval frescoes, Renaissance decorations, and a kitchen with a substantial fireplace.
15. Cuisine
Residing in a hilly region inhabited by pastoralists, the local cuisine emphasizes simplicity and hearty flavors. To this day, staple ingredients in the Cantal region include buckwheat, chestnuts, rye, ham, cheese, and vegetables. Potatoes feature prominently in dishes such as aligot, which consists of mashed potatoes combined with tomme cheese, cream, and garlic, as well as truffade, which uses sliced potatoes. Cantal cheese, produced since the time of the Gauls, showcases a firm texture due to its extended maturation period and is created using milk from Salers cows, imparting an earthy aroma reminiscent of the meadows where they graze.
