Summary
The city of Šabac is situated in the northwest of Serbia, not far from the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. Although it is relatively modest in size, this city has produced numerous significant historical figures within Serbia, including renowned authors, artists, and psychiatrists, as well as Mileva Marić, the first wife of Albert Einstein. Šabac is also recognized for its spirited character, celebrated annually through a festival dedicated to humor and satire.
In the 19th century, Jevrem Obrenović, brother to modern Serbia’s inaugural monarch, served as the mayor and endowed the city center with its palatial ambiance, evident today in its mansions and grand municipal structures.
Let us examine the noteworthy attractions in Šabac:
1. Church of St Peter and St Paul
The principal Orthodox church in the city dates back to the tenure of Jevrem Obrenović, having been completed in 1831, towards the end of his administration in Šabac.
Most of the interior decoration was added after the First World War, as the church endured bombardment from the Austro-Hungarians and its interior was subsequently plundered.
The exterior walls still bear the marks of this historical conflict.
A significant focal point for many worshippers is a flawless replica of the Trojeručica, a revered “wonder-working” icon from the Hilandar Monastery located on Mount Athos.
The church’s frescoes were painted in 1932 by the Russian artist Andrej Bicenko using the medieval fresco-secco technique.
2. Šabac Fortress
Currently, what remains of the fort beside the river resembles a rectangular shell, reflecting its turbulent past.
This fort, constructed during the Ottoman era in 1471 by the Bosnian general Isa-Beg Ishaković, was fortified with stone ramparts in the 18th century.
It changed hands temporarily between the Hungarians and Austrians throughout its history, yet the Ottomans maintained control until 1867, long after the remainder of the city had returned to Serbian sovereignty.
As you observe the ruins, look for plaques that commemorate the final liberation in 1867 and pay tribute to citizens executed here during the Second World War.
3. Šabac National Museum
Located on Masarikova Street, the city’s museum presents the rich history and ethnographic background of Šabac.
The museum, housed in a distinguished Classical building, was once Serbia’s second-ever gymnasium (Grammar School), established in 1857. For those interested in learning more about Šabac and the illustrious history of the Drina River Basin, this becomes a premier attraction.
Visitors will discover Neolithic tools, weaponry, and ceramics, advancing to captivating Roman artifacts such as jewelry, cosmetic containers, and bronze statues of Mercury and Venus.
In addition, the ethnology department offers insights into Šabac’s traditional crafts, furniture, costumes, and spiritual culture.
4. Ulica Gospodar-Jevremova
Šabac’s prominent street adopted the name of Jevrem Obrenović in celebration of his centenary in 1890. This thoroughfare began to emerge in the early 19th century and features distinguished Central European architecture, represented by townhouses, municipal buildings, and public facilities.
To preserve the street’s historic ambiance, ten structures are designated as listed monuments, showcasing painted stucco facades adorned with balustrades, floral patterns, and elegant entrances.
Notable buildings include the townhouse Kuća Pavla Stanića, the District Courthouse (Zgrada Okružnog Suda), and the First National Pharmacy (Prva Narodna Apoteka).
5. Dunjića Kuća
This elegant townhouse was constructed in 1920 for the distinguished military surgeon Mihailo Dunjić, who administered Šabac’s hospital from 1920 until 1936. The residence is conveniently located across from his workplace.
Restored in the 1980s, Dunjića Kuća stands as an impressive example of Neo-Renaissance architecture, showcasing the lifestyle of the city’s affluent inhabitants.
The house is accessible to the public, featuring an exhibition of paintings by Šabac-based Post-Impressionist landscape artist Branko Stanković located on the upper floor.
6. Sights around Šabac
While Šabac boasts a collection of magnificent buildings that may not serve as formal tourist attractions, they are certainly deserving of photographic attention during a visit.
Krsmanovića Kuća is a stunning Neo-Renaissance mansion located opposite the cathedral, featuring intricate wreaths, niches, and statues adorning its façade.
Zgrade Bliznakinje (Twin Buildings) is another prestigious residence designed by Milorad Ruvidić, who greatly influenced the architectural landscape of Belgrade.
This Beaux-Arts mansion incorporates elements from the 17th-century Louis XIII style.
Additionally, be sure to admire the delicately adorned Kuća Dragomira, the Intermunicipal Archives established in 1865, and the City Library located within the former episcopal palace.
7. Sava River
Adjacent to the fortress lies a sandy river beach bordered by grassy banks.
During warm summer days, the beach attracts numerous sunbathers and swimmers.
The area has undergone refurbishment, featuring a row of permanent sunshades and a small promenade with a couple of restaurants boasting terraces overlooking the river.
While swimming safety might be a concern, one can still enjoy kayaking, leisurely strolls along the water, or sunbathing.
8. Šabac Summer Festival
During the final weekend of July, the fortress and beach become lively with music enthusiasts attending the Šabac Summer Festival.
The majority of the performers are domestic, providing a glimpse into the music scene of Serbia.
This festival notably features a commitment to emerging artists, with an extensive array of musical genres represented, from punk rock to hip-hop and techno.
A designated party zone offers DJ performances, while a newly introduced “Art Zone” caters to classical music, workshops, and theater performances.
The event is proudly acknowledged as the premier music festival in Western Serbia and attracts numerous music aficionados from neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovina.
9. Čivijada
Šabac is often characterized in Serbia as a city known for its jesters and pranksters.
This reputation traces back to a legendary incident from the 19th century: When Jevrem Obrenović made a dignified entrance into the city, a mischievous resident dislodged the linchpin from his carriage, leading to an amusing malfunction.
Since 1968, the city’s irreverent spirit has been celebrated every September with a humor and satire festival named after the missing linchpin, called “Čivijada.” In 2008, this event grew into a vibrant carnival featuring marching bands, street theater, stand-up performances, and a lively themed parade.
10. Šabac Fair
Following Čivijada, the city hosts its annual fair on September 21, coinciding with the birth of the Virgin Mary.
This event holds immense significance in Šabac, renowned throughout Serbia.
Thousands of residents, alongside individuals from the surrounding Mačva District, gather along the banks of the Sava River to explore market stalls and partake in dining and drinking within tents.
A local superstition suggests that failing to purchase something from the market on this day may result in a year of misfortune! This vibrant occasion features folk bands, street performers, fortune-tellers, and traditional fair rides for children.
11. Cer Mountain
Located just southeast of Šabac, the Cer Mountain massif is traditionally viewed as the western gateway to Serbia (Zapadnom kapijom Srbije). Its historical significance runs deep, having served as a foothold for various armies and cultures throughout the ages, with notably Illyrians, Huns, Slavic tribes, Romans, and Byzantines establishing strongholds in this region.
In August 1914, Serbian and Austro-Hungarian forces clashed in this mountainous terrain during the Battle of Cer, which resulted in a Serbian victory, effectively routing the larger Austro-Hungarian army.
Today, Cer is characterized by its restorative walks, offering trails that lead into refreshing oak and beech forests, which are habitats for deer and wild boar.
During summer, the range is adorned with wild herbs and fruits such as strawberries and blueberries.
The panoramic view of the Pocerina and Mačva plain from the summit at 687 meters is unforgettable.
12. Kaona Monastery
Driving south from Šabac leads to an active monastery that dates back to the 14th century.
According to legend, it was established by Ikonija, sister of Miloš Obilić, a knight in service of Prince Lazar.
Obilić gained prominence in folklore and became the subject of epic poems for his alleged valor in the Battle of Kosovo in 1389. The monastery has withstood challenges during Ottoman rule and both World Wars, resulting in significant alterations to its original architecture.
Despite this, the monastery maintains a charming whitewashed Byzantine church alongside a chapel, both of which house vibrantly colored frescoes.
Visitors are welcomed by picturesque surroundings, as the church is nestled in tranquil, wooded hills near a pond nourished by a gentle spring.
13. Petkovica Monastery
Similar to Kaona, this monastery situated at the base of Cer Mountain has endured centuries of destruction and neglect.
Tradition holds that it was founded by King Dragutin of Serbia in the 13th century.
The church and monastic structures persevered through numerous attacks until they were ultimately demolished during the First Serbian Uprising in the early 19th century.
They were subsequently restored in the refined Moravian style, with the primary church featuring a two-story tower and an exquisite altar decorated with floral motifs.
In front, you will find an unusual feature: a vine reputed to possess miraculous attributes, specifically in healing infertility among women.
14. Mišar
Adjacent to the Sava River on the eastern outskirts of the city lies the village of Mišar, known in history for the pivotal battle that occurred there in August 1806 between the Serbs and the Ottoman Empire.
This battle took place on the cliffs above the river and culminated in a decisive Serbian victory, temporarily repelling Turkish forces.
A monument was erected on the battleground in 1906 to commemorate the centenary, alongside a modest yet intriguing museum showcasing artifacts from this conflict.
Visitors can coordinate with the Šabac tourist office for guided tours.
15. Kafanas
It is often suggested that the true essence of Šabac can be experienced within its kafanas (traditional taverns). Here, the number of kafanas per capita exceeds that of any other Serbian city; at one time, it was humorously proclaimed that the city boasted more kafanas than residents.
Historically, entering a kafana was predominantly a privilege for men, but Šabac broke this tradition in the 19th century by becoming the first Serbian city to welcome women into these establishments.
An outing to a kafana is far from a simple or quick dining experience; it typically involves multiple courses, commencing with a meze and culminating in generous platters of grilled meats.
Be prepared to raise toasts with shots of rakija (a strong Balkan brandy), and immerse yourself in the accompanying singing from the live folk bands.
