Summary
This medieval city is situated atop a 100-meter-high limestone rock that stands out amidst the low, flat plains surrounding it.
The high town, encircled by eight kilometers of formidable walls and gates, boasts France’s largest protected historic center.
With over 80 historic monuments, this city was once the capital of the Carolingian Empire during the early Middle Ages.
The highlight, however, is Laon Cathedral, which is visible for kilometers in all directions and is one of the earliest and most significant Gothic monuments in France.
Furthermore, the ground in the high town is interspersed with tunnels that were initially excavated in Roman times, accessible to the public during tours in July and August.
Let us explore the best things to do in Laon:
1. Laon Cathedral
The first indication of Laon as you approach from the road will be the cathedral’s towers emerging over the horizon.
This sight is understandably awe-inspiring for medieval travelers.
Completed in 1235, it was among France’s initial major Gothic structures, even predating Notre Dame in Paris.
Take your time to admire the sculptures on the porches of the western facade, along with the intricate traceries in the rose window above.
The local white stone used in the interior creates an almost luminous effect in the nave.
For decoration, observe the 12th-century baptismal font, the 14th-century painted relief of the Passion, and a Serbian icon gifted to the cathedral by Pope Urban IV in the 13th century.
2. Chapelle des Templiers
Knights Templar chapels are rare in France, and it is even more uncommon to find one in such well-preserved condition.
Only two other chapels in the country have a similar octagonal floor plan.
This monument dates back to 1140, approximately 12 years after the Templar order established their presence in the city, serving as a funerary chapel.
Be sure to examine the mosaic floor, decorative fragments, tombstones, and sculptures found in the choir.
Outside, the walls of the narthex feature intriguingly sculpted gargoyles.
The serene flower garden surrounding the chapel, where the cemetery once stood, offers a pleasant spot for reflection.
3. Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie
This chapel is also part of Laon’s museum dedicated to art and archaeology.
In a city with a history extending over 1,500 years, it is home to an abundance of artifacts, including a Gaulish torque, a 7th-century fibula, medieval tiles, the intriguing cadaver tomb of Charles VI’s physician, and delicate faïence from Sinceny.
The art galleries feature paintings from the 1500s to the 1800s by notable French, Dutch, Flemish, and Italian artists.
Henri Bles and Hubert Robert are among the more prominent names, as well as works by the distinguished Eugène Delacroix.
4. Laon’s Ramparts
As you approach the high town from the plains, the striking view of the city dominating the landscape is captivating.
Consequently, the vistas do not disappoint; the best panoramas can be enjoyed from atop the ancient walls on both the north and south sides of the high town.
Among these, the Rempart Guillaume de Harcigny and the Promenade Yitzhak Rabin offer spectacular perspectives. In addition, there’s a scenic lookout complete with trees and benches placed between the citadel and the Porte d’Ardon.
You can sit back and marvel at an expanse of forests and farmland that stretches infinitely.
5. Porte d’Ardon
The historical southeastern entrance to the city is located at the summit of a road winding up the steep incline to the upper town.
This opening in the defensive structure has existed since the 10th century, with the current gate dating back to around the 1400s.
It appears to function like a small fortress, complete with turrets on either side crowned with conical roofs.
As you pass through the entrance, take note of the wooden beams in the ceiling; just below the gate lies an old lavoir, or communal wash-house.
6. Porte de Soissons
Confronted by this formidable gate, an invading army might have reconsidered their assault on Laon.
While the Porte de Soissons is less grand and shows signs of wear compared to the Porte d’Andon, it is slightly older than its counterpart across town.
This gate originates from the early 1200s and features two robust circular towers equipped with numerous arrow loops.
The structure’s top tier served as a guardhouse, installed during the 16th century, and despite its dilapidation, the exquisite stonework can still be appreciated.
7. Cours de Dauphin
Nestled within the maze of cobblestone streets just a few steps from the cathedral is an exquisite townhouse surrounding a courtyard.
Notably, this building displays a composite architectural style, with sections identifiable from the 13th, 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries.
The south wall features a charming timber and brick structure with a wooden gallery situated above the former stables on the ground floor.
Additionally, observe the stone turret adorned with a carved lintel and the mullioned windows leading across the passageway. According to local legend, Louis XIV was conceived here by Louis XIII and Anne of Austria after their pilgrimage to the Black Virgin in Liesse.
8. Ancien Hôtel-Dieu
While many French tourist offices are located in historic structures, few can muse the allure of Laon’s medieval hospital.
The Hôtel-Dieu, erected beside the cathedral, dates back to 1167. As you browse through the pamphlets, books, and the city’s scale model, take a moment to observe the walls, which still retain faint traces of medieval frescoes.
The old reception area, characterized by its lofty columns and vaulted ceilings, exudes solemnity, and you will notice how the arcades that once opened onto the Place du Parvis Gualter de Mortagne have been filled in over time.
9. Église Saint-Martin
Completed around the same time as the cathedral, this early-Gothic church served as an abbey for the “Premonstratensian” order of canons.
Notably, although the structure sustained damage in 1944, it has been thoroughly restored and offers numerous features worth examining up close.
Initially, the unusually long nave showcases a classic Romanesque characteristic, illustrating the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture.
You will find a beautifully carved oak pulpit dating back to the 19th century as well as two medieval recumbent tomb effigies, one representing Jeanne de Flandres, a former abbess, and the other depicting Raoul II of Coucy.
10. Laon Souterrain
Upon arriving in Laon during the summer, one of your initial activities should be to sign up for a tour of the tunnels beneath the city.
These excursions, organized by the tourist office, delve deep into the limestone bedrock below the citadel.
Stretching for hundreds of meters, these tunnels have been excavated over the course of 2,000 years.
Initially serving as quarries for significant monuments like the cathedral, they were later adapted for defense following the introduction of gunpowder.
What is truly remarkable is the feeling of stepping back in time with each few meters traversed in these tunnels.
11. Episcopal Palace
This grand 13th-century residence of the Bishops of Laon has long been repurposed into the city’s law courts.
While access is limited, it remains a noteworthy addition to your walking tour.
It overlooks Laon’s northern ramparts, and along Promenade Barthélémy de Jur, the three turrets hint at the palatial home’s dual purpose in bolstering the city’s defenses.
On the opposite side, adjacent to the cathedral, you can gaze through the gates into the courtyard towards the ambulatory lined with noble arches adorned with foliate motifs on the capitals.
12. Basilique Notre-Dame de Liesse
Located just a 15-minute drive from Laon, this Gothic church is situated in the small town of Liesse-Notre-Dame.
Originating in the 12th century with some later additions from the late Middle Ages, it is a striking structure.
However, the primary draw lies within the choir: the statue of the Black Virgin with Child, a significant pilgrimage site for centuries.
The significance is further heightened by the knowledge that you are standing on hallowed ground once frequented by Joan of Arc and three Kings: Louis VI, François I, and Louis XIII, who visited several times in the 1630s to pray for an heir.
13. Caverne du Dragon
Allocate around 20 minutes to reach this cave, which became a strategic objective during the First World War.
Initially a limestone quarry providing materials for the nearby Abbey of Vauclair, it fell under German control for a significant portion of the war.
This site received its name owing to the flames and sparks observed emerging from the machine guns stationed here.
Visitors can partake in an hour-long bilingual tour that vividly portrays the harsh realities faced by First World War soldiers, recounting the tumultuous period when French and German troops alternately commandeered various chambers within the same cave.
14. Vauclair Abbey
Now largely in ruins, Vauclair Abbey was a Cistercian monastery established in 1134 upon the request of the Bishop of Laon.
This structure endured the Hundred Years’ War, French Wars of Religion, and the Revolution but eventually succumbed during the First World War.
Today, while it is notably missing a significant portion of its walls and roof, enough remains of the columns and window arches to ignite your imagination and provide a sense of the monastery’s former grandeur.
A medieval medicinal garden along with an orchard boasting pear and apple trees render this site a peaceful location for contemplation.
15. Local Food
For those visiting during the summer months, the stalls at Laon’s weekly market are abundant with fruits cultivated in the surrounding farms.
The cherries, strawberries, and raspberries are exceptionally flavorful and travel no more than a couple of kilometers to reach this market.
In 2003, Laon introduced its signature sweet known as Pavés de Laon: These delicacies, resembling the town’s cobblestones, are coated in chocolate and praline meringue.
Additionally, the broader Aisne department is renowned for its ficelle, crêpes filled with ham, mushrooms, and béchamel, then baked in the oven under a layer of melted cheese.
