Summary
The first inland port in Australia took shape on the lower reaches of the Murray River in the 1850s.
Goolwa’s wharf, still intact today, allowed goods to move along the Murray without ships having to navigate the treacherous waters at the river’s mouth.
In the 1930s, a system of barriers was constructed near the mouth to manage the river’s salinity. Visitors can head to the Goolwa Barrage to observe boats navigating the lock while enjoying the expansive skies and shimmering waters.
Modern Goolwa presents a vibrant artistic atmosphere, featuring a plethora of galleries housed within historic buildings.
In line with the historic theme, you can embark on a steam-to-steam journey aboard a paddle steamer from 1908, followed by a steam train ride along the sandy coastline.
1. Goolwa Wharf Precinct
The heritage of Australia’s first inland port is preserved at Goolwa’s riverfront wharf, where independent shops, galleries, and restaurants are prevalent.
This is the ideal location to board a steamboat for a journey up the Murray, embark on a guided tour of the Coorong, or enjoy a scenic train ride along the Fleurieu Peninsula on the Cockle Train.
There is ample green space with distant views across the Murray’s lower reaches, and visitors can enjoy the scenery with a beverage in hand from the Steam Exchange Brewery, which produces an IPA, American-style “Steam Ale”, a stout, and a dark ale.
Popular markets occur here twice a month, as well as “At the Wharf,” a live music and culinary event on the last Friday of the month during daylight saving months.
2. Goolwa Beach
The distance from riverfront to oceanfront is minimal in Goolwa, allowing for an easy walk or bike ride down beach road to witness the grandeur of the Southern Ocean as it crashes into the coast.
Goolwa Beach is expansive, particularly at low tide, with high dunes acting as a barrier from the town.
The beach is worth visiting year-round to witness the continual waves rolling in from the boardwalk in the dunes, even in winter when temperatures seldom rise above the teens.
A Surf Life Saving Club and a cafe are situated in the dunes, along with KingoSurfing, which offers lessons to those looking to master the waves.
3. Coorong National Park
Goolwa is the largest nearby settlement to a national park of significant ecological importance.
The name “Coorong” derives from a local Aboriginal term meaning “narrow neck,” referring to the elongated piece of land that protects a lagoon system.
This Ramsar Site is highly regarded by birdwatchers, serving as a breeding ground for terns, swans, cormorants, ducks, and Australian pelicans, and attracts over 230 species of migratory birds annually.
Visitors can explore the park via boat, kayak, 4WD, or on foot, seeking out salt lakes, windswept ocean beaches, dunes, and sheltered bays.
The Ngarrindjeri Aboriginal people have inhabited the area for countless generations, leaving behind ancient evidence in the form of burial sites and middens made of discarded seashells.
4. Goolwa Barrage
Along the Murray River, one can observe a segment of a large water management initiative that transformed the characteristics of the river hundreds of kilometres inland.
The Goolwa Barrage serves as a long structure across the river, connecting the Sir Richard Peninsula in the south with Hindmarsh Island in the north.
This structure features a lock, measuring over 30 metres in length and six metres in width.
The primary objective of this and the four additional barriers at the mouth of the Murray is to reduce the salinity in the lower river caused by tidal movements.
Lower salt concentrations have been recorded at Swan Reach, situated 250 kilometres upstream.
The Goolwa Barrage was finalized in the late 1930s and can be crossed on foot for picturesque views of the Murray Mouth, particularly during dawn and dusk.
Informative plaques provide insights into the barrage, along with opportunities to observe local avifauna including pelicans, swans, quail, black-shouldered kites, plovers, and sacred kingfishers.
5. Paddle Steamer Oscar W
A fully operational, wood-fired paddle steamer is docked at Goolwa’s wharf.
Featuring steel topsides and a red gum hull, the Oscar W was launched in Echuca, Victoria in 1908, and has continued to operate with passengers on board for over a century.
Goolwa possesses a historic shipbuilding legacy, with the construction of around 60 paddle steamers and barges from 1853 to 1914. On a typical voyage aboard the Oscar W, passengers travel down to the Goolwa Barrage and back towards the town, passing under the Hindmarsh Island Bridge.
Before or after your trip, ensure to visit the Goolwa Riverboat Centre, which offers information about the Coorong, scale models of paddle steamers, historical photographs of the wharf, and an old beam engine that was once used to pull vessels up the slipway at the shipyards.
6. Cockle Train
The second segment of a steam-to-steam experience in Goolwa entails a ride on Australia’s oldest steel-railed railway, which dates back to 1887. This line was constructed to link the ports of the Fleurieu Peninsula with the mouth of the Murray River at Goolwa.
The last freight trains operated through the line in the 1980s, after which it transitioned into a heritage railway.
The 20-kilometre journey to Goolwa is delightful, as passengers ride in historic Brill or Redhen railcars along towering cliffs, providing stunning views of immense ocean beaches and dunes.
The railway features steam and diesel locomotives dating back to 1913, with steam engines used during school holidays and diesel engines at other times.
7. Goolwa Wharf Markets
The charming wharf precinct is home to a lively market held on the first and third Sundays of each month.
Under the towering Norfolk Island pines, there are more than 80 stalls offering second-hand books, collectibles, arts and crafts, textiles, fashion accessories, and freshly prepared food and beverages, including spinach and feta pastries and cappuccinos.
Additionally, fresh produce stalls are present where you can purchase fruits and vegetables directly from growers, along with vendors selling a variety of cakes, jams, and pastries.
More markets are held every Sunday in January and on Good Friday.
8. Bristow Smith Reserve
Located along the Murray River, Goolwa’s beloved local park offers various amenities right in the town’s centre.
Children can enjoy a nature-themed play area featuring climbing nets, a water play section, stepping logs, a basket swing, and a restored 10-meter-long fishing boat.
This play area also includes sensory elements, such as music and sound installations, interpretive art, and a sensory wall, made possible through funding from the Fleurieu Philanthropy Foundation.
Moreover, the park provides access to the serene Murray riverfront, complete with a boat ramp and nearby jetty.
9. Victor Harbor
When the Cockle Train arrives at this historic port and former whaling station in Encounter Bay, visitors will have numerous activities to engage in.
Granite Island should be the first stop on your itinerary.
Once home to whalers, this rugged isle is renowned for its remarkable rock formations and its population of little penguins.
Situated a few hundred meters offshore, it is connected to the mainland via a causeway, which can be traversed via one of the few remaining horse-drawn trams in existence.
During the period from May to October, Victor Harbor serves as a nursery for the southern right whale.
This species, which can reach lengths of up to 18 meters, favors Encounter Bay’s relatively warm winter waters, making Victor Harbor one of the premier locations globally for observing whales from the shore.
10. Horseshoe Bay
A short drive to Port Elliot leads to the sheltered Horseshoe Bay, which is formed precisely as its name suggests.
The beach is somewhat shielded from the Southern Ocean by granite reefs and the low Pullen Island.
This location made for a viable port in the 1850s, as evidenced by the remaining breakwater from that era. The high lookout atop Freemans Knob on the southern side was historically used as a whaling post to spot southern right whales.
Visitors can still engage in this activity between May and October when these whales approach the Fleurieu Peninsula to calve.
The beach itself is delightful, bordered by Norfolk Island pines within the Commodore Reserve, offering a crescent of soft sand.
The waves are gentle and the water is clear, although caution should be exercised due to tricky currents further out.
11. Goolwa Animal Farm
For a family-friendly outing, the Goolwa Animal Farm, situated in the scenic Fleurieu Peninsula countryside just outside Goolwa, provides an opportunity for children to meet, feed, and interact with various animals including goats, ducks, turkeys, alpacas, pigs, guinea pigs, chickens, wallabies, kangaroos, and ponies.
Additionally, there are seasonal arrivals to cuddle, such as kid goats, lambs, and chicks.
The animal farm organizes numerous side activities, such as pony rides and tractor trailer rides, as well as a play area and tranquil garden space.
12. Goolwa Motor Museum
Nestled within a warehouse on Goolwa’s industrial outskirts is a polished private collection showcasing 45 vintage and classic cars.
These automobiles span from the 1920s to the 1970s, encompassing a range from muscle cars to distinctive compacts, and they are all presented in nearly immaculate condition.
The collection belongs to one individual, Michael Finnis, who is eager to share his expertise.
Notable vehicles include the 1948 Allard K1 Sports Type 71K, the 1950 Jaguar XK 120 2, the 1937 Morris 840 Tourer, and the 1960 MGA 1600. These cars are complemented by an extensive display of posters, photographs, flags, car accessories, helmets, goggles, and model and toy cars.
13. Art@Goolwa Inc
This gallery/store, situated in the heart of Goolwa, offers a plethora of artistic experiences.
Art@Goolwa Inc is located within two historic buildings, the first being the Bargeboard Cottage, which dates back to the mid-1850s and was meticulously relocated here from Goyder Street in 1986. Adjacent to it is an old prefab structure that formerly served as the Barrage Paymaster’s residence.
The name Art@Goolwa Inc pertains to a collective of 25 local artists showcasing award-winning, available artworks across a wide range of media, including mosaics, photography, wood, metal, glass, ceramics, and textiles.
14. Artworx Gallery
Located just moments from the Wharf Precinct, this art space resides in another historical structure, a stone cottage constructed in the 1850s.
Artworx Gallery is recognized as the preeminent contemporary gallery on the Fleurieu Peninsula, where one can explore the work of skilled artists from South Australia and beyond while acquiring a piece to cherish.
The gallery is curated by long-term Goolwa residents, Liz and John Francis, and features a blend of painting, sculpture, ceramics, and glass art, in addition to handmade scarves, bags, and whimsical decor items for the home.
15. Goolwa Visitor Information Centre
A visit to the visitor information centre at the wharf can significantly ease many inquiries.
Here, one can obtain tickets for the PS Oscar W and secure permits for camping at Coorong National Park.
The centre provides an extensive range of tours and accommodations throughout the Fleurieu Peninsula, as well as tickets for the Sealink crossing to the biodiverse Kangaroo Island.
The souvenir and gift shop is well-stocked with regional field guides and books, in addition to postcards, mugs, and locally crafted clothing and jewelry.
