Summary
- Musée de la Chartreuse
- Douai Belfry
- Musée Archéologique Arkéos
- Centre Historique Minier de Lewarde
- Palais de Justice
- Douai’s Fortifications
- Collégiale Saint-Pierre
- Old Douai Boat Tour
- Small Sights around Douai
- Les Fêtes de Gayant
- Terril des Argales
- Parc Jacques Vernier
- Château de Bernicourt
- Day Trips
- Food and Drink
Located on the Scarpe River, Douai is a city that has undergone numerous transformations. Until the 1700s, it prospered through wool trade, utilizing barges along the river. Subsequently, under French governance, the city became more refined as the Parliament of Flanders and the judiciary relocated here, resulting in remarkable 18th-century architecture.
In the 19th century, coal mining and metallurgy took prominence, with the largest mining museum in France situated just outside the city. A notable figure in Douai’s history is Gayant, a tall ceremonial puppet celebrated during the city’s festival at the beginning of July, representing Douai’s most renowned resident.
Let’s explore the best things to do in Douai:
1. Musée de la Chartreuse
Douai’s fine arts museum houses an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures from renowned masters across France, Italy, and the Low Countries.
Noteworthy works include pieces by Delacroix, Courbet, Sisley, Boudin, Veronese, and Jacob Jordaens, in addition to several large polyptychs by the Gothic Douai-based artist Jehan Bellegambe.
These represent just a selection of the must-see artworks, with approximately 10,000 pieces displayed in chronological order within an exquisite setting.
The galleries are situated in a former Carthusian monastery, which was converted from a 16th-century Renaissance mansion.
2. Douai Belfry
Medieval watchtowers, such as this one, hold significant status in cities across Northern France and parts of Belgium.
Indeed, they are collectively recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Constructed in 1380, Douai’s belfry presents a stark appearance at its base, yet its upper levels feature vibrant turrets and golden weathervanes and finials.
Victor Hugo praised the belfry during his visit to Douai in 1837, admiring the carillon of 62 bells, which still performs a charming tune every quarter past and quarter to the hour.
Additionally, brief concerts are held at 10:45 and 11:45 on Saturday mornings, as well as Monday evenings at 21:00 during the summer.
3. Musée Archéologique Arkéos
This archaeology museum showcases 40 years of discoveries from excavations around Douai in a contemporary venue that opened in 2014. Artefacts span from prehistory to the Middle Ages, providing a vivid portrayal of life over various periods in the region.
Furthermore, utilizing this context, the museum has created a substantial archaeological park that reconstructs scenes from Douai circa 1000 AD, featuring an abbey, a feudal motte with a wooden keep, a poultry yard, and various shops and homes.
4. Centre Historique Minier de Lewarde
This former colliery in Lewarde operated from 1931 to 1971, after which it was repurposed as a museum and show mine.
It stands as the largest museum of its kind in France, offering insights into a compelling chapter of the region’s recent history.
Visitors have the opportunity to descend deep into the mine, experiencing firsthand the conditions faced by workers on a daily basis.
The main hall showcases artefacts and mining tools, while former miners share their personal stories.
Many of the facilities, such as the infirmary, bathroom/showers, lamp shop, and administrative offices, have remained unchanged since the mine ceased operations.
5. Palais de Justice
The Parliament of Flanders established its presence on the site of a former monastery by the Scarpe in 1714, paving the way for Douai’s evolution into a judicial center.
Both the Nord-Pas-de-Calais Court of Appeal and the Nord Court of Assizes are located here.
During summer weekends, tours of the interior can be arranged, offering a chance to see the Grand’Chambre of the Flanders Parliament, completed in 1762, adorned with exquisite murals, sculpted wooden pilasters, and gilded plasterwork.
Notable historical figures include Eugène François Vidocq, a former inmate who became a criminalist and founded the first private detective agency, contributing to the establishment of the French police department.
6. Douai’s Fortifications
Following a major demolition in 1891, the city’s defenses were largely removed to facilitate the development of healthier, more spacious neighborhoods.
Nevertheless, several historical structures remain, providing context as you explore the city.
The imposing Porte de Valenciennes, constructed in 1453 of sandstone, is particularly striking, featuring a large square structure with three passageways, two of which were added in 1880 to accommodate road traffic, topped by an old guardhouse.
In 1667, Louis XIV passed through this gate after Douai’s surrender.
The smaller Porte d’Arras, dating back to the 1300s, includes two circular towers, while the Tour des Dames is a sandstone tower from 1425 located in the namesake park.
7. Collégiale Saint-Pierre
This church is essential viewing, not only for its architectural grandeur but also for its impressive scale.
The Collégiale Saint-Pierre stems from the 16th century; however, the original Gothic structure was significantly deteriorating by the 18th century.
Consequently, all but the bell-tower were reconstructed in the French Classical style between 1740 and 1750, resulting in a harmonious architectural ambiance complemented by fine decorations, including two magnificent 19th-century organs.
Moreover, it stands at 112 metres, longer than any other religious structure north of Paris.
8. Old Douai Boat Tour
Given that Douai and the Scarpe River are intrinsically linked, take the opportunity to visit the Embarcadère du Palais de Justice on Place de Pollinchove during the summer months.
At the dock, motorboats await to provide a brief cruise through the historic city, where one can view various minor monuments, remnants of waterfront commerce, and elegant riverside residences.
An experienced guide will narrate approximately 2,000 years of Douai’s history, highlighting the significance of each bridge, wharf, warehouse, and lock.
9. Small Sights around Douai
Continue your exploration of Douai on foot to observe the significant transformations that occurred in the 18th century when the judiciary established itself in the city.
Numerous elegant residences were constructed during this period, such as the Hôtel du Dauphin on Place d’Armes, which now serves as Douai’s tourist office.
Moreover, view the Louis XV Hôtel d’Aoust, which became the home of the Administrative Court of Appeal in 1999. On a different note, the Fonderie des Canons is a garden that preserves remnants of a 17th-century arsenal and cannon foundry.
Across from this site lies the Hôtel Romagnant, an exquisite 17th-century residence belonging to the artillery commissioner.
10. Les Fêtes de Gayant
Douai’s identity is closely linked with its family of ceremonial giants, which are large effigies carried through the city in processions over three days at the beginning of July.
The largest effigy, Gayant, was created in 1530; uniquely, unlike similar figures found in other cities, Douai did not assign him a personal name, simply referring to him as “Gayant”, meaning giant! Gayant is accompanied by his wife, Marie Cagenon, and their three children, Binbin, Fillon, and Jacquot.
They make their annual appearance on the first Sunday following July 5, with the 8.5-metre Gayant requiring the support of six men concealed beneath his robes.
11. Terril des Argales
This slag heap may not be the conventional setting for a nature excursion; however, the Terril des Argales is remarkable.
Having been the largest heap in Nord-Pas-de-Calais, it was deposited on swampy terrain and eventually settled under its own weight.
As a consequence, water surfaced, accidentally forming a scenic array of ponds and meadows.
The area is now a reserve where nature has reclaimed the landscape: aquatic life thrives, and occasional sightings of lizards darting across the schist are common.
A five-kilometre trail allows visitors to appreciate the transformation of an industrial site into a natural habitat.
12. Parc Jacques Vernier
Open during the summer, this adventure park offers children a splendid venue to enjoy timeless sunny days.
A large lake borders the Scarpe, where pedal boats, family rowboats, and low-powered motorized “karts nautiques” are available for rental, catering to older children.
On dry land, further attractions are provided, including four “trampo-elastiques,” trampolines equipped with bungee-rope harnesses allowing children to leap seven metres into the air securely.
Kids can also navigate the “accrobranche” course, a series of obstacles suspended several metres above ground.
In contrast, adults may prefer hiring a four-seater pedal car to leisurely cycle around the lake’s perimeter.
13. Château de Bernicourt
Located a few minutes from Douai in Roost-Warendin is a noble Louis XV-style château constructed in 1743. This stately residence functioned as a home until the early 1900s when it was taken over by Douai’s mining company.
The property served to accommodate mining executives and workers until purchased by the local commune and converted into a museum.
Although the original furnishings have been removed, the museum now features galleries showcasing life in the early 20th century.
Visitors can explore a blacksmith forge, a classroom, and a shoemaker’s workshop, all containing original tools and furniture.
14. Day Trips
A significant advantage of being in a metropolitan area is the accessibility to various exciting locations nearby.
Lille, Lens, and Arras are approximately half an hour by car; Lille, in particular, is a primary destination for its vibrant city atmosphere and charming Flemish architecture, epitomized by the Vieille Bourse (old stock exchange) designed in the Mannerist style.
Lens, formerly a mining town, has evolved into a cultural hub with the establishment of a Louvre branch in 2012.
Conversely, Arras is distinguished by its picturesque squares lined with Flemish gabled houses, along with a 15th-century Gothic belfry.
15. Food and Drink
Beer holds significant importance in Douai, with the Brasserie de Gayant named in honor of the beloved giant.
This brewery, in operation since 1919, produces blonde, white, and brown beers available at most local establishments.
The giants also inspire “gayantines,” a traditional caramel candy flavored with chicory or vanilla.
Main courses served in Douai tend to reflect those found in Belgium.
Diners can relish dishes such as carbonade à la flamande, a rich braised beef dish traditionally served with French fries.
For dessert or a snack, waffles are commonly available, often served plain and flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, or rum.