Summary
Situated on a rocky ridge overlooking the Charente River, Angoulême is an architecturally rich city enhanced by its steep slopes. The fortifications that once protected the higher regions were dismantled in the 1700s, creating terrace paths and boulevards that offer panoramic views of the Charente and the Anguinne Valleys.
For enthusiasts of comic art, the city is particularly appealing. In January, it hosts the second-largest comic festival in Europe, which features presentations from renowned artists and an awards ceremony. Throughout the year, Angoulême boasts a dedicated center that includes a museum for comics and graphic novels, along with outdoor murals created by some of France’s and Belgium’s most celebrated artists.
Let us examine the noteworthy attractions in Angoulême:
1. Angoulême Cathedral
Perched high on a terrace that offers expansive views of the Anguienne Valley, this cathedral construction began in the early 12th century, with the initial phase completed in under 20 years.
Visitors are encouraged to pause and appreciate the intricate sculptures adorning the western facade upon entering.
With over 70 sculptures and reliefs competing for attention, one distinctive feature to observe is the upper central area above the window, which depicts the Ascension of Christ, artistically rendered amidst the clouds.
2. Musée d’Angoulême
Adjacent to the cathedral, this esteemed museum encapsulates several millennia of the Angoulême region’s history.
The ground floor showcases an impressive array of artifacts, including the intriguing severed skull of a Bronze Age woman and the remarkable Agris Helmet, a masterwork of Gallic Celtic art discovered in a Charente Basin cave and dating back 2,500 years.
On the first floor, visitors can explore the museum’s Oceanic and African primitive art collection, which comprises over 3,000 pieces donated by a prominent anthropologist in the 1930s.
Finally, on the top floor, a collection of paintings and sculptures from the French, Dutch, and Flemish schools awaits exploration.
3. Upper Town
While navigating the oldest neighborhood within Angoulême, one can observe the striking contrasts between the northern and southern regions.
The northern area is characterized by a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets bordered by stunning stone mansions and rustic homes featuring wooden shutters.
In contrast, southern locales such as Avenue Georges Clemenceau exhibit the alteration of the ramparts and compact street systems to create straight, tree-lined roads that showcase the elegance of 18th and 19th-century urban design in France.
Both segments are excellent for sightseeing on foot.
4. Angoulême International Comics Festival
Each January, the city becomes the venue for the third-largest comic festival globally, attracting hundreds of thousands of participants.
Local shops join the festivities, which have been celebrated since 1974 and culminate in an awards presentation featuring accolades such as Comic of the Year and the Grand Prix for lifetime achievement, previously awarded to figures like Mœbius and Hergé.
Comic and graphic novel aficionados will find numerous new titles to explore, as well as opportunities to engage in Q&A sessions with international luminaries of the medium.
Additionally, artists seeking inspiration and networking opportunities are welcomed.
5. Musée de la Bande Dessinée
During the festival, major events are hosted at the Citée Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l’Image, a complex featuring a library, cinema, and congress center.
However, throughout the remainder of the year, visitors can explore the Comic Museum (Musée de la Bande Dessinée), which offers retrospectives on various international artists such as Charles M. Schulz and Hergé, alongside insights into French pioneers like Goscinny and Uderzo, creators of Asterix, as well as the works of DC and Marvel.
The museum provides in-depth examinations of the technical aspects of comic and graphic novel creation, the diverse forms of artistry and lettering involved, and the historical development of the medium.
6. The Ramparts
The upper town was enveloped by fortifications dating back to the Roman Empire, which were expanded and modified over the subsequent 1,500 years.
The most recent alterations occurred in the 1600s; however, as these defenses became obsolete in the 1700s, the walls and gates were dismantled to facilitate the expansion of Angoulême along the newly created boulevards.
The remnants consist of picturesque terraces featuring pathways and gardens.
The Rempart de Bieulieu was the first pathway transformed into a walkway, equipped with cast-iron gas lights and offering breathtaking vistas of the Charente.
7. Paper Museum
Papermaking flourished in the Charente Valley due to its exceptional water purity, and this legacy is preserved at a former mill situated on an island in the river.
This facility ceased operations in the 1970s, having been established in 1887. Notably, it remains untouched since its closure, allowing visitors to observe a variety of historical industrial machinery, including working water wheels driven by the river.
This factory, which produced cigarette paper, has also retained the rollers that were used to create the watermarks on each sheet.
Exhibits encompass broader themes related to the narrative of industrial papermaking during the 19th and 20th centuries, featuring documents, firsthand accounts, and monochrome photography.
8. Hôtel de Ville
While traversing the upper town atop the rocky promontory, one cannot help but appreciate the difficulty attackers would have faced in seizing this location.
One pivotal factor hindering assailants was the Château d’Angoulême, a formidable fortress that is now integrated into the city’s town hall.
Among the remnants from the medieval era, the keep and polygonal tower, dating from the 12th and 13th centuries, still stand.
The tower is reputedly the birthplace of Marguerite de Navarre, sister to King Francis I. In the mid-19th century, architect Paul Abadie, renowned for his restoration of Notre Dame in Paris, facilitated the transformation of this site into the town hall.
9. Circuit des Remparts
Every mid-September, the streets of the upper town transform into a racing track to commemorate a legendary post-war event.
In the 1940s and early 1950s, the Circuit des Remparts was renowned as a Grand Prix event that drew notable drivers such as Juan Manuel Fangio, Raymond Sommer, and Maurice Trintignant.
This rapid course featured three hairpin turns, though its official status as a race was brief.
In 1983, the event was revived as a heritage race showcasing vintage Bugattis, Ferraris, and Jaguars, adhering to the course traced in the post-war era.
Enthusiasts of vintage vehicles and motorsport should not overlook this nostalgic racing weekend.
10. Église Saint-André
In the 1860s, architect Paul Abadie undertook the renovation of this church, which suffered extensive wear from centuries of conflict, including damage from the Hundred Years’ War, the French Wars of Religion, and the Revolution.
This tumultuous history has resulted in an eclectic combination of architectural styles, with several ancient elements still discernible within.
The arches in the narthex (near the entrance) exhibit Romanesque features, dating back to the 1100s, alongside an array of exquisite historic furnishings.
The pulpit and altar are from the 1600s, complemented by an impressive collection of Renaissance and Baroque paintings.
11. Street Murals
In a bid to celebrate its legacy in comics and illustration, Angoulême has commissioned 20 murals on buildings throughout the city.
Created by artists such as François Walthéry and Florence Cestac, these murals can be found in every neighborhood and are featured on a designated trail available for download.
This initiative has been ongoing for nearly two decades, with each addition celebrated as a major event.
The first mural, however, was installed much earlier, in 1982, on Boulevard Jean Moulin.
This early artwork features beloved comic characters like Batman, Tintin, and Lucky Luke, which inspired the city to commission further works.
12. River Activities
Amid pleasant weather conditions, the Charente River becomes inviting, offering various recreational opportunities as it meanders beneath Angoulême’s promontory and through pristine farmland.
Canoeing is a perennial family favorite, with multiple rental companies available within the city.
Venturing upriver leads to Baignade Vindelle, a supervised natural swimming area featuring shaded banks and activities for children.
Alternatively, for those preferring to remain dry, motorboat rentals are offered for two hours, enabling guests to explore the river at leisure.
13. Chapelle des Cordeliers
Currently associated with a retirement home, this chapel was formerly the church of the Convent of the Cordeliers.
The church was constructed when the order established itself in Angoulême in the 13th century, and remnants of the original cloister remain.
The nave houses the tomb of Jean-Louis Guez de Balzac, a 17th-century libertine and author known for his provocative satirical essays.
Moreover, the chapel’s interior decoration reveals tapestries and paintings from the 1600s and 1700s, as well as antique furniture and a bronze bowl on display.
14. Cognac
Located just west of Angoulême, the town of Cognac is renowned as the birthplace of the distinguished variety of brandy.
Esteemed houses such as Martell, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, and Hennessy welcome visitors for tours showcasing their rich histories.
For example, Martell has been producing Cognac for over 30 years.
A typical excursion includes a tour of the vineyard, a visit to the distillery, and a chance to explore memorabilia in the brand’s museum.
Finally, tastings featuring two or more varieties, typically accompanied by light refreshments, should not be missed.
15. Cuisine
Reflecting the culinary traditions of western France, the Charentais region is home to numerous pig farms.
Historically, many families would raise their own pigs, providing sustenance for several months.
This legacy persists in local recipes such as boudin à la viande (blood pudding) and grillon (pork pâté).
The city’s covered market is the prime location for discovering and purchasing the finest local delicacies.
Housed in a stunning late-19th-century metal and glass structure built on the site of a former castle-turned-prison, this market is a culinary gem.
For those seeking souvenirs, numerous independent chocolateries can be found, while Biscuiterie Lolmede is particularly celebrated for its macaroons flavored with pistachio or cognac.
