Summary
A city with a population of 30,000 in Friesland, Heerenveen possesses a remarkable sporting legacy that belies its modest size.
Thialf, the premier speed skating arena in the Netherlands, is located here, marking significant news in a country renowned for its dominance in ice sports.
The local football team, SC Heerenveen, is forever linked with the legendary striker Abe Lenstra, while also contributing to the emergence of modern talent such as Ruud van Nistelrooy and Klaas-Jan Huntelaar.
Within the same municipality, Oranjewoud was established in the 17th century as an estate by Countess Albertine Agnes of Nassau, widow of Friesland’s Stadtholder, William Frederick.
In the 19th century, several influential families in the region established their own smaller estates in Oranjewoud.
While these lavish mansions remain private, there is an excellent art museum, and the 17th-century park is accessible to the public.
1. Museum Belvédère
Dedicated to modern and contemporary art, Museum Belvédère is located in Oranjewoud and named after a 1920s lookout tower within the park.
Opened in 2004 by Queen Beatrix in an award-winning, environmentally conscious building that straddles a canal, the museum primarily focuses on Frisian artists, including Jan Mankes, Gerrit Benner, and Thijs Rinsema.
The exhibitions traverse from the 19th century to the present, encompassing movements such as Realism, Impressionism, Expressionism, Constructivism, and New Figuration.
As of late 2018, exhibitions featured the works of Dick van Arkel and Tjibbe Hooghiemstra, inspired, respectively, by the Frisian polders and the bocage landscape of the Friese Wouden.
2. Thialf
Speed skating is a hallmark of Dutch culture, and for the past 35 years, the Netherlands has won twice as many ISU Speed Skating World Cups (986) as its closest competitor, the USA (436). One of the key venues for this sport is Thialf, a 12,500-seat arena dedicated to ice sports, inaugurated in 1986 and renovated in 2016. The adjoining outdoor rink dates back to 1967 and was officially opened by Princess Christina.
Thialf is regarded as the premier venue for skating in the Netherlands, hosting two World Cup events each season alongside home matches for the Friesland Flyers ice hockey team, competing in the Eredevisie.
Renowned for its fast track, world records across various distances are frequently set here each season.
It is advisable to check the opening times; from September to March, visitors can also test their skating skills on the famous 400-meter track or the casual Krabbelbaan.
Skate rental services are available, and there is a designated 30 x 30 meter rink for younger skaters.
3. Crackstate
A municipal building since the 19th century, this Baroque mansion was commissioned by the grietman, Johannes Sytzes Crack, in 1648. In keeping with Frisian tradition, the name of the residence combines the owner’s name with the term for estate. Crackstate is surrounded by a moat, crossed by a bridge constructed in 1775, with iron gates dating back to 1819. Above the pediment is a lantern, which is believed to have once served as a watchtower and has housed Crackstate’s ring of bells since the 1960s.
A prison was added to the basement in 1890, and it was used as a torture chamber during the Second World War.
On a more positive note, Crackstate now serves as a wedding venue adjacent to a newly constructed city hall built in 1993.
4. Oenemastate
This remarkable villa, constructed in 1640, was originally built as a residence for grietman Amelius van Oenema.
Following its transfer to two local noble families, Oenemastate became the official office for Heerenveen’s grietman in 1828 and subsequently served as a town hall for Heerenveen from 1876 onward. The balustrade beneath the impressive central dormer features panels detailing the building’s construction and its restoration in 1876. After its acquisition in the 20th century, the villa now operates as a grand café, which is worth a visit to admire its exquisite ceiling paintings.
5. Museum Heerenveen
This local museum provides valuable insights into Heerenveen’s history, featuring an array of historical objects, archaeological finds, and works by regional artists, including notable Symbolist Jan Mankes.
Exhibits include information about distinguished families residing at Oranjewoud and their poorer peat-cutting counterparts, alongside a highly detailed scale model depicting Heerenveen as it appeared in 1830. Visitors can explore the life and career of the prolific Heerenveen striker Abe Lenstra (1920-1985) while learning about the town’s deep connections to industry and famous Dutch manufacturers such as the bike brand Batavus and Koninklijke Smilde.
The museum additionally features a sculpture garden, changing displays of contemporary art, and a museum shop styled like a 19th-century Heerenveen pharmacy.
6. Ferdinand Domela Nieuwenhuis Museum
Although part of the Heerenveen Museum, this biographical collection is officially recognized as a distinct attraction and is dedicated to the first socialist to serve in the Dutch parliament.
Ferdinand Domela Nieuwenhuis (1846-1919) represented the Frisian People’s Party and was elected in 1888, serving a three-year term in the House of Representatives, before gravitating toward anarchism and revolutionary principles.
During his time in office, he advocated for universal suffrage, an eight-hour workday, the introduction of a minimum wage, and the cessation of the Netherlands’ involvement in the war in Aceh, among other progressive policies that were ahead of their time.
Visitors can explore four different sections showcasing personal belongings, insights into his private life, excerpts from letters, his library, and an assessment of his impact on the Netherlands at the turn of the century and in contemporary society.
7. De Overtuin
The parkland of Oranjewoud has been accessible to the public since 1953. Dating back to the 17th century, it was updated to adhere to contemporary tastes, first in the Baroque style during the 18th century and later as an English landscape park in the 19th century.
The park is recognized as a Dutch heritage site and its canals, as well as oak and beech avenues, have remained intact since its establishment in the 17th century.
In the landscaped gardens, there are winding paths through groves and around a kidney-shaped water feature.
The extensive collection of rhododendrons, dating back to the 1800s, becomes particularly striking in June when they bloom.
To the east, visitors can ascend the 18-meter concrete Belvédère tower (constructed in 1924), which lends its name to the nearby museum.
8. Welgelegen Windmill
The striking smock mill located on Tjepkemastraat was constructed in 1849 and resumed flour milling by wind power following renovation in the early 1970s.
The upper floors, housing the mill’s machinery, feature thatched roofing, while the lower levels are constructed from brick and were elevated by six meters in 1898 to raise the sails above adjacent buildings.
Mill enthusiasts are welcome to visit on Saturday mornings to observe the Burr and Cullen stones, cogs, shafts, and gears in action when the wind allows.
In the shop, a selection of flours from spelt to six-grain bread flour, is available, all produced at this 170-year-old mill using traditional methods.
9. SC Heerenveen
The local football team embodies a strong sense of regional identity, much like prominent clubs such as Athletic Bilbao, Bayern Munich, or FC Barcelona.
SC Heerenveen’s crest features the flag of Friesland, adorned with diagonal blue and white stripes interspersed with the “pompeblêd,” heraldic water lily leaves resembling hearts.
The Frisian national anthem, De Alde Friezen, is performed prior to each home game at the Abe Lenstra Stadion, which has a capacity of 27,224 spectators.
Opened in 1994, it is named after the club’s most illustrious player, who boasted a scoring ratio of better than 1 to 1 during his 18-year tenure with the “De Superfriezens.” With an average attendance of 20,000, the atmosphere is vibrant, making it relatively easy to acquire tickets, provided you obtain a free club card.
10. Frisian Lakes
Heerenveen is situated on the eastern side of a cherished lake district, the Friese Meren, known in the Netherlands but less familiar to international visitors.
These 35 lakes, interconnected by rivers and canals, were artificially created during peat extraction commencing in the Medieval period.
Visitors can navigate the countryside on bicycles, passing by herds of Frisian cattle.
Bicycles are available for hire from Heerenveen Tweewielers in the town center, and the tourist office at Heerenveen Museum offers a wealth of maps and informational brochures.
In the summer months, ample water activities become available at the lakes, including tours on historical vessels, sailing, stand-up paddleboarding, kite-surfing, windsurfing, or kayaking.
The canal network provides access to the lakes from Heerenveen, with a hiring center, Bootverhuur Kalf, located on the Heeresloot canal, featuring a small fleet of motorboats, some of which do not require a license for operation.
