From seasonal sights and arts events to traditional festivals and tech expos, there is a lot happening in Tokyo from late September through to December – making the autumn months a great time to visit.
See the leaves change
Tokyo’s parks and gardens are a treat any time of year but especially when the maple trees turn from green to torii (a traditional Japanese gate) red in late November. Rikugi-en, Koshikawa Kōrakuen, and Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien are some prime spots to lose yourself in a kaleidoscope of colours; Rikugi-en stays open a few hours past dark, turning on flood lights for the occasion.
You can also head to the hills to immerse yourself in the autumn phenomenon: Takao-san and Oku-Tama are two popular getaways, an hour and two hours respectively, by train from Tokyo (though fair warning, they can get very crowded).
While the maples are definitely showstoppers, don’t miss Tokyo’s signature tree – the gingko – whose leaves go gold in early December. Admire them from the terrace at Royal Garden Café on the appropriately-named Ichō Namiki-dōri (meaning, Ginkgo Street).
Rake in some luck
Tori-no-ichi (Rooster Fairs) have been a Tokyo tradition for centuries, held at shrines in November (the month of the rooster according to the Chinese zodiac).
Vendors sell kumade (bamboo rakes), that have been so lavishly decorated with symbols for wealth (like the god Ebisu), longevity (pine boughs and cranes), and happiness (owls), as to totally obscure their use – except metaphorically.
Hanazono-jinja in Shinjuku and Chōkoku-ji in Asakusa both celebrate Tori-no-ichi. They take place two or three times during the month, on ‘rooster days’.
Go wild for Halloween
For decades Tokyo did little more than raise an eyebrow at the spectre of Halloween; however, now the city champions this American import. Thousands descend on Shibuya Crossing in costume for a massive open-air party – you can elect to arrive in style, in a go-kart and dressed as a cartoon or video game character, courtesy of Maricar.
Other popular gathering spots include Tokyo’s gay district, Shinjuku Nichōme – start the evening at Aiiro Café – alongside the lively bars and clubs of nightlife district Roppongi.
The city of Kawasaki (located between Tokyo and Yokohama) hosts a massively popular, other-worldly parade over the weekend closest to Halloween. For parts of September and the entire month of October, Tokyo Disney Resort features Halloween-themed parades and decorations.
Have a moon-viewing party
You already know hanami (cherry blossom viewing), now meet its autumnal counterpart tsukimi (moon viewing). Full moons in Japan from September to December are big and golden, resembling a senbei (toasted rice cracker) hanging in the sky. The traditional day for tsukimi is the fifteenth day of the eighth month, on the old lunar calendar.
Every year, the garden Mukojima Hyakkaen stays open until 9pm for three days surrounding the full moon for a lantern-lit celebration, showcasing live koto (zither) music. Yokohama garden Sankei-en similarly hosts an event featuring music and dance staged at one of its antique pavilions.
If you can’t make it to an event, throughout the month you’ll see restaurants offering seasonal moon-themed treats, such as tsukimi-dango (rice dumplings). Don’t despair if you’re visiting out of season, you can get tsukimi-udon, noodles topped with a bright yellow egg yolk year-round.
Catch a show
Over the last week of October, Roppongi Hills rolls out the red carpet for the Tokyo International Film Festival, which features a mix of Hollywood blockbusters, the latest offerings from Japanese veterans, and new flicks from emerging directors across Asia. In November, there’s Tokyo Filmex, another film festival focused less on commercialism. Both are open to the public; most films are screened with English subtitles (though it’s wise to double-check).
Festival/Tokyo, Japan’s largest performing arts festival, runs throughout October into November, with shows taking place in theatres – and on the streets – across the city. Some performances are screened with English subtitles (or don’t use spoken language at all); check the website for further details.
Tokyo’s autumn foods
After a summer filled with beer, edamame, and kakigōri (shaved ice), Tokyoites eagerly anticipate more earthy delights. King among them is the coveted matsutake mushroom, which can fetch hundreds of dollars per kilo. Look for them on sale at Tsukiji Outer Market. Saba (pacific saury) and sanma (mackerel) are the fish of autumn; both are delectable as sushi or grilled (yaki-zakana) at an izakaya (Japanese gastropub) like Okajōki.
Other autumn foods to watch for include: kuri (chestnuts), usually steamed with rice or sweetened for desserts; kaki (persimmon); and kabocha (Japanese pumpkin). This time of year also marks the arrival of yaki-imo (roasted sweet potato) trucks, making rounds through Tokyo neighborhoods and selling potatoes hot off the coals that serve as hand warmers.
Geek out
Head to Tokyo GameShow in September, to try out the latest video games, mingle with fans, or pay homage to your favourite character – TGS is known for its cosplay gatherings. CEATEC Japan takes place in early October and is Japan’s largest electronics trade show; the ideal venue to see the latest gadgets and gizmos before they hit the shelves.
The final major tech expo of the autumn, either in November or December (on odd years only), is the International Robot Exhibition. This event allows you to meet and greet the creations from leading international robotics enterprises, which are likely to become increasingly common in the future.
