Essential Guide to Tenerife: Discover the Canary Islands’ Grand Dame
Dominated by the sky-high summit of El Teide, Spain’s tallest peak, Tenerife evokes everything that makes Spain’s sun-dappled Canary Islands such an endlessly enticing destination.
Elegant ancient towns, lively ports, and isolated mountain villages intermingle amidst otherworldly volcanic landscapes. The arts shine in the cultured capital, Santa Cruz, home of the country’s most fabulous carnival. Peaceful walking trails weave past mist-shrouded hills and magma-molded calderas, while along the Atlantic shoreline, waves wash onto volcanic-pebble beaches and shimmering natural sea pools.
You’ll need a good few days to truly explore this deliciously diverse island. Ensure all essentials, from hiking permits to Michelin-star dining, are adequately planned ahead—this is, after all, one of Europe’s favorite vacation playgrounds. Here’s everything you need to know for an unforgettable stay on Tenerife, the Canary Islands’ beloved grand dame.
Visit in February for Carnaval or Winter and Spring for Hiking
Tenerife’s significant festival is its three-week Carnaval—a nonstop, sequin-clad, Caribbean-influenced celebration that takes over the buzzing capital Santa Cruz de Tenerife each February. Hailed as one of Spain’s greatest carnivals, it’s an unmissable experience; however, be prepared for soaring accommodation and flight prices. Therefore, it’s wise to plan all arrangements well in advance!
The warm winter months from December to February represent the high season for northern Europeans seeking sunshine. Moreover, the hot summer (June to September) is especially popular for Spanish vacationers, particularly in August. The in-between months of October and November are typically quieter, with comfortable temperatures around 25°C (77°F) on the coast, making it an ideal time for visitors seeking good deals on accommodations and wonderful hiking through fields of spring wildflowers from March to May.
Essential Hiking Permits in Advance
Tenerife’s top natural thrill is the chance to summit Spain’s tallest peak, 3718m (12,198ft) El Teide, located at the heart of the lunar-like Parque Nacional del Teide. A crucial detail to note is that you will need a pre-booked permit to hike up to El Teide’s summit. Only 200 permits are issued daily, and hikers snatch them up months in advance, so it’s best to reserve as far ahead as possible.
To support conservation efforts, two other standout hikes, the Barranco de Masca and the Barranco del Infierno, both follow spectacular gorges in western Tenerife and also require permits. If you don’t manage to secure one, fear not; the island offers numerous rewarding walking trails, from lesser-known routes through the haunting beauty of Teide National Park to paths in the lush cloud forests of the Anaga mountains.
Select Accommodation Near Attractions
Although it’s possible to explore the island within a few days, choosing the right place to stay in Tenerife is key. The winding roads can unexpectedly add hours to driving times, thus it’s worth being based near the must-see sights and attractions on your travel list.
The north coast is best for escaping the hustle and bustle, with accommodations predominantly in small towns along the Atlantic shoreline. Elegant Garachico, for example, boasts delightful boutique hotels situated in restored Canarian mansions: Hotel San Roque and La Quinta Roja.
Hikers will adore the remote, pastel-painted villages of the Anaga mountains in northeast Tenerife, characterized by eerily beautiful cloud forests and independent accommodations. Those seeking urban energy should consider Santa Cruz, where cultural highlights include the boldly designed Tenerife Espacio de las Artes and Santiago Calatrava’s wave-shaped Auditorio de Tenerife. Alternatively, consider historic La Laguna, where La Laguna Gran Hotel adds a stylish touch to a centuries-old home.
Sunny southwest Tenerife is home to high-end resorts teeming with facilities, many of which emphasize sustainability. Near the surfing hub of El Médano, Casas Bioclimáticas ITER features innovative carbon-free self-catering houses and villas, powered by solar and wind energy, all designed by Tenerife’s Instituto Tecnológico y de Energías Renovables.
Utilize Tenerife’s Public Transport Network to Reduce Carbon Footprint
The Canary Islands boast a unique and fragile natural environment. However, the roads can be congested, and car rentals can be pricey owing to limited availability, especially during peak seasons. With a little planning, you can minimize your carbon footprint by leveraging the efficient guagua (bus) services across the island or renting an electric vehicle.
The Titsa Ten+Movil app offers a variety of bus passes for convenient island travel, allowing you to purchase single-journey tickets as well. Otherwise, it’s necessary to carry cash for most journeys. Exploring by bicycle, hiking, and kayaking presents delightful opportunities to appreciate the dramatic Los Gigantes cliffs and the capital is also best appreciated on foot.
Discover the Gastronomic Scene by Visiting Tenerife’s Best Restaurants
Tenerife is burgeoning as a key player in Spain’s gastronomic scene. Tempting choices vary from casual seafood shacks on the beach and vibrant vegan cafes packed with local produce, to upscale restaurants delivering avant-garde tasting menus nestled in romantic hotels. It’s advisable to secure a reservation a few weeks in advance at the finest establishments, such as the Michelin-starred El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Caleta, run by the tinerfeño Padrón brothers, or Martín Berasategui’s M.B. at the Ritz-Carlton Abama, which boasts two Michelin stars and is helmed by the esteemed chef Erlantz Gorostiza.
Explore Neighboring Canary Islands
With its two international airports and excellent ferry links, Tenerife serves as the primary gateway to the less-traveled western Canary Islands—bohemian La Gomera, lush La Palma, and rustic El Hierro. Each of these islands presents a rewarding contrast to Tenerife, easily addable as delightful side trips.
Regular ferries operate from Los Cristianos in southwest Tenerife to Santa Cruz de la Palma (3½ hours), El Hierro’s Puerto de la Estaca (2¾ hours), and San Sebastián de La Gomera (1 hour). Although it’s feasible to take a day trip to La Gomera by ferry, be prepared to wish you could linger longer.
Respect Local Attitudes and Dress Accordingly
When it comes to attire, anything goes on this soulful, sun-kissed island. However, it’s wise to pack sunscreen, a hat, and other forms of protection against the sun’s strong rays. While many choose to go topless on the beach and numerous nudist spots are scattered around the island, it’s respectful to cover up when venturing away from the sand—so no bare chests in urban areas!
Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, such as churches or chapels. It’s considered impolite to visit churches for tourism during religious services. For buildings that are only open for mass, make sure to arrive before the service begins.
Enjoy Tenerife’s Volcanic Wines
One of Tenerife’s true delights is discovering the cultural marvels beyond its Atlantic-washed coast—pastel-walled villages adorning lush slopes interspersed with banana-palm plantations. A vineyard tour can enrich your understanding of the island’s unique wine-making scene, which revolves around local pre-phylloxera grape varieties and the varied microclimates within its volcanic landscapes. Most tinerfeño wine is consumed across the island, so be sure to sample generously while you’re there and support local winemakers by taking home a bottle or two!
Close to Granadilla de Abona in southwest Tenerife, Bodega Frontos operates sustainably, being a family-run establishment with over 50 years of organic wine-making experience. The grapes grow at elevations up to 1700m (5577ft), establishing it as Europe’s most elevated winery.
Support Local Producers and Craft Workers
From herb-infused cosmetics to volcanic wines, Tenerife’s most inspired souvenirs create unique gifts that bolster small-scale producers, independent shops, and local island artisans. Start in lively Santa Cruz, where the fabulous TEA gift shop is an excellent spot to select creative pieces like notebooks and prints with a local flair.
Not far away, the mid-20th-century Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África resembles a fresh-food paradise filled with Canarian cheeses, North African spices, artisanal olive oils, palm honey, and other local favorites. Just a few streets away, more gourmet cheeses with a Canarian emphasis can be found at Queso Project.
Research Ethical Whale-Watching in Tenerife
Covering 2000 sq km of Atlantic Ocean, Europe’s first Whale Heritage Site was established in 2021 off the coasts of Tenerife and La Gomera, emphasizing how the Canary Islands prioritize responsible whale-watching experiences. The islands’ famous underwater inhabitants include bottlenose dolphins and short-finned pilot whales.
Prior to your visit, read more about how to be a responsible wildlife tourist and book your whale-watching tours in advance with a low-impact operator that upholds a sustainable ethos and focuses on animal welfare. Led by a knowledgeable team of marine biologists, Biosean conducts small-group expeditions that contribute essential research on local whale populations.
Respect Natural Ecosystems
Recently, numerous pebble and stone towers have appeared on various beaches around Tenerife, especially on Adeje’s Playa El Beril and Playa Jardín in Puerto de la Cruz. Local environmentalists are now advocating for a ban on these manmade structures as they disrupt natural ecosystems and potentially harm local wildlife. Therefore, it’s essential to participate in beach clean-ups and avoid creating any structures yourself.
Prepare for Tenerife’s Varied Microclimates
The Canary Islands are renowned for their stunningly varied microclimates, which are especially apparent in Tenerife. For example, you may be enjoying a sunny beach day on the southwest coast, only to find yourself needing a jacket amidst the misty mountains an hour later.
Hence, it is imperative to pack for diverse temperatures and conditions while considering the weather when planning outdoor adventures, particularly high-altitude hikes. Be mindful that altitude sickness can be a risk for those hiking above 2500m (8200ft), including El Teide. Consequently, most visitors experience no issues, yet it’s wise to take it slow.
Be Cautious of Natural Hazards
The eruption of the Cumbre Vieja volcano on the neighboring island of La Palma captured global attention, drawing awareness to the natural challenges the Canary Islands may face. In addition to volcanic activity, summer’s limited rainfall can occasionally lead to wildfires. In the unlikely event of emergencies, adhere to guidance from local authorities, including the Cabildo de Tenerife. Should an emergency arise, you can dial the universal number for emergencies, 112.
When swimming on Tenerife’s beaches and in natural pools, be vigilant regarding rip tides. The Atlantic can have strong currents; therefore, it is crucial to heed local advice—a red flag indicates it is unsafe to enter the water. For natural sea pools, visiting during low tide is advisable, as high tides and turbulent weather can present inherent dangers.
Keep Valuables Safe and Check Health Insurance
Most trips to Tenerife are entirely hassle-free, although petty theft can occur, particularly in larger towns. Thus, maintain awareness of your belongings in tourist-laden locales like markets and bus stations, and never leave valuables unattended on the beach.
The free European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) entitles all EU citizens to healthcare at local costs (typically meaning no cost) in other EU countries, including Spain. If you’re visiting from a non-EU country, research if there’s a reciprocal medical care agreement with Spain; if not, ensure you have sufficient health insurance or travel insurance coverage.
Can You Drink the Tap Water in Tenerife?
Residents of the Canary Islands often opt for bottled water due to the taste of tap water, which is predominantly desalinated sea water—it’s safe to drink, yet it may not be very palatable. Several hotels and restaurants provide large water containers for refilling reusable bottles, and drinking fountains are available at Tenerife’s airports. As of April 2022, all bars and restaurants in Spain (including the Canary Islands) are legally obligated to offer free agua de grifo (tap water) for drinking.
