A captivating capital that’s creeping onto bucket lists, Tbilisi is worth checking out for its old-world charm, pulsating nightlife, top-class food, and superb wines.
Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, turned out to be everything I did not expect. Instead of a drab post-Soviet outpost, I found a dynamic and friendly city steeped in history with 5-star hotels, Byzantine churches, striking modern architecture, a throbbing nightlife, and deliciously addictive food and wines.
Of course, I should have guessed Tbilisi would have a few surprises up its sleeve because Georgia – and not many people realize this – is in Europe. Yes, Europe. Right on the border with Asia, from which it is separated by the Ural Mountains.
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Dominated down the centuries by the Romans to the Mongols to the Russians, from whom it gained independence in 1991, I began to realize on the short drive from the airport that it had as many layers as an Italian lasagna. Charm by the bucketful caught my eye as I spotted cobblestone streets, a futuristic bridge flashing LED lights, overflowing restaurants, and the ruins of an ancient fortress.
The next morning, under a bright blue sky, I had breakfast by the pool in the 5-star Sheraton Grand Tbilisi Metechi Palace, Georgia’s iconic grand hotel that had just reopened after a major facelift. Heading down to the Abanotubani sulphur bath area under the ancient Narikala Fortress I had glimpsed the night before, I admired terraces of postcard-pretty houses, painted in pastel colors with carved ornamental wooden balconies.
Among the many ancient bathhouses, the Orbeliani stands out for its lovely blue-tiled façade. The thing to do is take a private room (there are also communal baths) and pay a little extra for a kisa scrub and massage. The tiled room featured a large pool with hot water sourced from the underground sulphuric springs that for centuries have cured skin conditions and even insomnia, plus a smaller cold pool and a bathroom.
Hot was an understatement. The water was scalding, and it was a relief when the scrub lady came in and, with a bar of soap, created a thick layer of suds before rinsing me off in the cold pool. Following that, I enjoyed a quick yet extremely thorough body massage that left me feeling rejuvenated, if slightly dazed.
There is everything to love about Georgian food, as I discovered at lunch in the heritage Chela Restaurant, famous in Soviet days for hosting historical figures like Margaret Thatcher and Fidel Castro. Positioned atop Mtsaminda Hill, reachable via the old funicular railway, the view over the city is sensational.
Georgia has two famous signature dishes, and they are equally delicious: the boat-shaped Khatchapuri pies filled with melted cheese, butter, and egg yolk, along with massive meat-stuffed Khinkhali dumplings that ooze rich broth.
For the best selfies, head to the quaint leaning clock tower in the Old Town, a fairly recent addition to the city’s urban architecture. Families traveling with children should not miss the marionette show at the adjacent theatre, brainchild of the famous puppeteer, writer, and movie director Rezo Gabriadze, the designer of the tower.
Not far away, Shardeni Street serves as a hub of Tbilisi’s nightlife, which is vibrant and compares favorably with the best in Europe. The area offers something for all tastes, ages, and budgets, making it great any time of day for relaxing at one of the sidewalk cafés to enjoy a cup of Georgian tea or a glass of its renowned wine. Georgia’s excellent wines are among the oldest globally, crafted and stored in huge egg-shaped qvevri earthenware vessels.
Another hot spot is Fabrika, a repurposed sewing factory adorned with street art, design stores, and the city’s largest hostel, featuring 400 beds across various dormitories, rooms, and suites. Cocktail hour in the courtyard is definitely worth experiencing, as the hostel bar is typically bustling and serves as a fantastic place to mingle with chatty locals and fellow globetrotters.
Lovers of classical music will appreciate the opera and ballet performances in the Opera House located on the elegant Freedom Square. Nature enthusiasts will find delight in the parklands that once belonged to Georgia’s royal family; now home to the National Botanical Gardens, close to the massive Mother of Georgia statue, which holds a welcoming bowl of wine in one hand and a menacing sword in the other.
Those unable to resist a flea market should visit the daily Dry Bridge Market. You name it, you’ll find it, from genuine antiques to bric-a-brac among the profusion of goods laid out on the ground and on stalls. It’s almost impossible not to find an interesting piece of memorabilia, offering immense pride in your haggling skills.
If you need something special to bring back home, consider Churchkhela, a colorful, candle-shaped traditional candy made from nuts threaded onto string and dipped into thickened grape juice that can be found at street stalls. Don’t forget to pick up some bottles of Georgian wine from the numerous wine stores in town, or in handy boxes, duty-free, at the airport.
