A port town on the cusp of Europe and Africa, Tangier skillfully balances competing cultures, merging them into a beautiful, harmonious blend that only a place this relaxed could pull off. Its long-standing liberal attitude towards vice made Tangier an attractive base camp for the Beat Generation of the 1950s, whose explorations of the city and creative sessions at local cafes put it on the map for Westerners.
Yet despite ever-improving transport links with Europe, Tangier somehow still seems to fall off the radar of modern Moroccan itineraries. Most people bypass it in favor of the supposedly grander imperial cities of Marrakesh and Fez. However, Tangier offers a gentler immersion into the madness of Morocco and a curious medley of cultures found nowhere else in the country, warranting trip time in its own right.
Get to grips with a manageable Moroccan medina
Navigating the labyrinthine alleyways within Morocco’s medinas is always an unforgettable experience often involving getting lost. Tangier’s old town, built in the 14th century, provides a crash course in medina mayhem without the claustrophobia of Fez or the sheer traffic of Marrakesh. The smaller size of its medina promises that if you’re lost, you’ll be easily found.
Outside of high season, some parts of the medina can be downright peaceful; while wandering the lanes, you’ll encounter locals and occasional seagulls, but you might also have some alleys all to yourself. This is still Morocco, so while touts exist, it’s easy enough to extricate yourself from their web of questions and continue your exploration.
On the shopping front, several fair, fixed-price shops can be found near the Kasbah, selling high-quality goods from traditional trades that have operated within these walls for centuries. Seek out boutique Las Chicas for a contemporary take on classic Moroccan crafts and Les Merinides for well-designed leather goods. Just outside the medina, DARNA is a female-positive crafts and clothing shop where proceeds support local women in need.
Tangier: forever the international city
Because of its strategic location at the mouth of the Mediterranean, Tangier was established as an International Zone in 1912. The United States along with several European countries all had a stake. For more than four decades, until Moroccan independence, western expats set up shop and started shaking up this cocktail of cultures.
Nearly a century before that, the Americans established their first embassy overseas in Tangier, after Morocco recognized the fledgling nation just a year after the Declaration of Independence. In 1821, the sultan donated a medina building to serve as a consulate. This continued until the capital moved to Rabat. The Tangier American Legation Museum now houses fascinating artifacts from the building’s period as a diplomatic mission, including a room dedicated to American composer Paul Bowles.
Street signs often feature Arabic, French, and Spanish, demonstrating Tangier’s unique multicultural identity alongside a carefree cafe culture akin to its northerly neighbors.
Transport to Tangier is easier than ever
Freshly infused with government investment, Tangier is primed for a multi-million dollar makeover. In 2017, the main port was replaced with a new cargo facility about 50km east called Tanger Med, allowing investment to pour in while freeing up the harbor closer to the city center for redevelopment. New cafes and restaurants now line the long boardwalk at Tanja Marina Bay, with a cable car and a dock for cruise ships in the works.
This development included the opening of Africa’s first high-speed train in November 2018, which now connects Tangier to Casablanca. Plans are underway to extend the line all the way to Agadir via Marrakesh, called Al Boraq after the mythical creature that transported the Islamic prophets. This new train service aims to cut current travel times significantly.
Tangier has always been a hub for travelers, and even its airport is named after Ibn Battuta, the 14th-century Moroccan explorer. Air Arabia, the Middle East’s first budget airline, is currently the only carrier that flies directly to Tangier from London, providing a cost-effective option. Other low-cost carriers, including Ryanair and EasyJet, also fly into Tangier from across Europe, along with Royal Air Maroc serving Tangier after a stop in Casablanca.
Additionally, Tangier serves as one of just three cities in Morocco receiving ferry passengers from southern Europe, with a cruising time of just over an hour from Algeciras or Tarifa in Spain.
Accommodation options for all budgets
More and more, Tangier’s city center riads are being renovated with visitors in mind. One notable place within the medina is Bayt Alice, designed by a French architect and named after her daughter. This cozy hostel features a rooftop terrace with hammocks and views stretching out to the sea.
Removed from the chaos of the city, the stylish new Hilton Al Houara sits on its own stretch of peaceful Atlantic coastline. Opened in April 2019, it’s a massive resort that complements any city break, offering beach access, multiple swimming pools, and horseback riding along the surf. True to Tangier’s multicultural roots, the room decor features a mix of Moroccan and Andalusian styles.
Day trips from Tangier
Once you’ve experienced Tangier, numerous nearby cities will vie for your attention, making it a great base for day trips around northern Morocco. Tangier is the closest big city to Chefchaouen, the Instagram-famous ‘Blue Pearl,’ where every surface of the medina is painted in striking azure. Even closer is Asilah, known for its art scene and Spanish influence, where the usually whitewashed medina walls are brightened with murals during its annual cultural festival in August.
