Explore Shekhawati: The Complete Travel Guide to Rajasthan’s Hidden Gem

Introduction

If you’re an art lover or have an interest in architecture and history, the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan is a must-visit destination to include in your travel plans. Located within the triangle formed by Delhi, Jaipur, and Bikaner, this region is often overlooked in favor of more famous destinations in Rajasthan. Nonetheless, it is uniquely renowned as the world’s largest open-air art gallery.

The primary attractions in the Shekhawati region are the old havelis (mansions), which are adorned with intricate painted frescoes. The region boasts a fascinating history as it was established in the 18th century along a caravan trade route and was ruled by the Shekhawat Rajputs. It flourished during that period, featuring over 100 villages, along with 50 forts and palaces.

Over the next century, many individuals from the neighboring Marwar community migrated to Shekhawati, making it their home. Wealthy business owners commissioned artists to create stunning frescoes on their homes as a testament to their prosperity. These painted havelis appeared across the desert landscape and the art form was preserved for nearly 300 years. However, as time passed, many families moved away, resulting in a number of homes becoming abandoned and neglected.

How to Get There

The Shekhawati region is conveniently accessed from Jaipur or Bikaner in Rajasthan, or Delhi. If you’re opting for a train ride from Delhi, Indian Railways trains depart from the Delhi Sarai Rohilla station, with routes that pass through Churu (on the outskirts of the region) to Bikaner or Jodhpur; travel time is approximately 4.5 hours. More frequent service is available from Jaipur, with convenient stops at Nawalgarh in about 3.5 hours. The nearest airport is in Jaipur, about 150 kilometers (93 miles) away.

Hiring a car and driver is highly recommended for exploring the region effortlessly. From Jaipur, V Care Tours and Travel offers top-notch car and driver services, featuring new, well-maintained vehicles and courteous English-speaking drivers. If personal transport isn’t an option, there are alternatives such as horseback riding or taking a bus.

Tours

For an in-depth experience of the Shekhawati region, consider the Straight from the Art trip offered by Breakaway, departing from either Delhi or Jaipur.

When to Go

The peak tourist season spans from October to March, when the weather is cool and dry. If you visit in early February, you can enjoy the annual Shekhawati Festival held in Nawalgarh. This festival celebrates the region’s heritage and includes a handicrafts market, an organic food court, cultural performances, and local games. Be prepared for cold winter nights; packing warm clothing is advisable!

Best Places to See Shekhawati’s Havelis

Given that the Shekhawati region spans about 100 kilometers (62 miles), it’s wise to choose a central base for your explorations. It is important to note that the roads running north to south are generally in much better condition than those from east to west. Spending a few days in the region should suffice since many painted havelis have similar features, and some may find that viewing them consecutively becomes repetitive. If you’re seeking relaxation, Shekhawati, with its serene environment, is perfect for unwinding.

Nawalgarh and Mandawa are excellent bases for exploration. Mandawa is particularly advantageous because of its central location, making it popular among travelers.

• Nawalgarh: A lively town offering a variety of accommodations not found in smaller villages, Nawalgarh is home to hundreds of painted havelis. The most exquisite frescoes can be found here, including the Aath Haveli complex, Jodhraj Patodia Haveli, Bansidhar Bhagat Haveli, and Chokhani Haveli. The local bazaar and fort are worth visiting, alongside landmarks like the Morarka Haveli Museum, which showcases the prevalent motifs in the frescoes. The Dr Ramnath A Podar Haveli Museum, dating back to the 1920s in the eastern part of town, also features vibrant murals. Nawalgarh is ideal for starting horseback explorations within the Shekhawati region.
• Mandawa: This small market town has a rural Rajasthani ambiance and boasts numerous decorated havelis. However, some are in varying states of disrepair. The town is distinguished by a grand fort that has been converted into a hotel. For stunning panoramic views over Mandawa, ascend to the terrace of the Mandawa Castle. Attractive accommodation options abound in Mandawa.

Other Places Worth Exploring

• Jhunjhunu: As the Old Capital and the largest town in the region, Jhunjhunu showcases numerous painted havelis, along with an old palace and various temples. However, it may lack the distinctive charm of smaller villages.
• Fatehpur: Established in the mid-15th century and later taken over by the Shekhawati Rajputs in the 18th century, Fatehpur possesses a range of painted havelis. Nevertheless, many have not been adequately maintained. Be sure to observe the frescoes on the walls of the Devra and Singhania Havelis, which feature a blend of Indian and Western art styles. Interestingly, the mirror work at the entrance showcases Japanese tiles with depictions of Mount Fuji. The Nadine le Prince Haveli, restored by a French artist, is another major attraction and features various art galleries accessible via a guided tour.
• Ramgargh: Once known as one of Shekhawati’s wealthiest areas, Ramgargh is notable for its intriguing temples, providing a refreshing contrast to the havelis.
• Mahansar: This charming town was established by the prosperous Podder family, who were involved in opium and chintz trade. The town thrived until one of the Podders lost his fortune when ships transporting opium sank. Key attractions include Mahansar Fort, which houses a heritage hotel offering lunch, and the Sone ki Dukan (Golden Shop), adorned with gold-painted murals narrating Hindu mythology.
• Dunlod: Located south of Mandawa, heading towards Nawalgarh, Dunlod features a limited number of havelis boasting impressive murals, along with a fort at its center.
• Mukundgarh: Known as a center for crafts, this town is also home to one of the largest havelis in the region, alongside a fort.

Suggested Itineraries

Using Mandawa as your base, you can efficiently explore surrounding towns in a series of circuits. For instance:

• Day One: Mandawa-Fatehpur-Ramgargh-Mahansar-Mandawa.
• Day Two: Mandawa-Mukundgarh-Dunlod-Nawalgarh-Mandawa.

Shekhawati Rajasthan Map

This map assists in planning your travels by illustrating most major towns in the Shekhawati region, with Mandawa as your primary base. Note that not all roads are depicted on the map.

Where to Stay in Shekhawati

One of the most attractive aspects of visiting the Shekhawati region is the opportunity to stay in beautiful old havelis, immersing yourself in the historical ambiance of the area.

Budget-conscious travelers will find that inexpensive options can provide excellent value for money. Many higher-priced hotels suffer from shabby service, unclean rooms with inconsistent quality, and inadequate maintenance.

Best Hotels in Nawalgarh

• Roop Niwas Kothi (Palace): This magnificent country house, located about one kilometer north of the fort, once served as the royal family’s residence. After a complete renovation in 1928, which added contemporary architectural elements, it opened to guests in 1981. With a stable housing around 60 horses, guests can enjoy riding. Expect rates starting at around 5,000 rupees for a double room per night.
• Apani Dhani Eco-Lodge: Offering a unique experience, this hotel features accommodations in visually appealing mud huts nestled among fields away from the urban center. Guests can partake in various activities to learn about daily rural life and traditions in India. Rates begin around 1,500 rupees per night; note that certain rules apply, such as a no-alcohol policy.
• Rajesh Jangid Tourist Pension: This charming yet simple establishment is highly praised and is run by the same owners as Apani Dhani. Known for its focus on organic ingredients from local farms, eco-friendliness, and cultural workshops conducted by local artists, the eight rooms are situated in a Brahmin home, with a no-meat and no-alcohol rule enforced. Room rates start at approximately 1,000 rupees for a double room.
• Shekhawati Guest House: This eco-friendly and homely guesthouse is located on an organic farm just outside town. Rates range from 800 rupees per night for a standard double room to 1,500 rupees for an air-conditioned cottage. The homemade food served in the garden restaurant is delightful.

Best Hotels in Mandawa

• Vivaana Culture Hotel: If you’re looking to indulge, this hotel is a prime choice. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century haveli, located 10 kilometers from Mandawa, rates start around 6,500 rupees for a double room, breakfast included.
• Castle Mandawa: A 240-year-old fortress now converted into a hotel featuring expansive courtyards, towering domes, turrets, and historic cannons. This sprawling property is perfect for an afternoon of exploration. However, it’s the ambiance and surroundings, rather than the rooms, that make this hotel special, with rates starting from 7,500 rupees for a double room.
• Mandawa Haveli: This beautifully decorated haveli is located on a main street, having been lovingly restored. The inner courtyard is adorned with stunning frescoes depicted in Krishna themes. The staff is amiable, and services are commendable, with options for activities like camel cart rides. Room rates begin from 2,750 rupees per night for a double room, whereas the Gopesh Suite, at 5,550 rupees, provides luxurious features including arches, window seats, and a private courtyard.
• Hotel Shekhawati: The top budget choice in Mandawa, offering beautifully painted frescoes in spacious rooms, coupled with friendly staff. Room rates commence at a reasonable 1,000 rupees per night.
• Pawaana Haveli: It enjoys a prime location in the town center, featuring an organic rooftop restaurant with views of Mandawa Castle and Raghunath Temple. Visitors can select from 11 uniquely designed, newly renovated rooms decorated with frescoes, starting at approximately 2,000 rupees per night (though some lower-priced rooms lack windows). Early booking is recommended as this hotel tends to fill quickly!
• Hotel Chobdar Haveli: Another recently renovated boutique hotel, Chobdar Haveli offers just five uniquely themed suites. Rates start at 3,500 rupees for a double room per night.