After four days of walking, I reached the halfway point of one of the most remote long-distance hiking trails in the world. It was the furthest I’d ever been from civilization. The nearest settlements were more than 80km away, I had not spoken to anyone in over 48 hours and I hadn’t seen darkness since leaving home. This was wilderness in its purest, most intense form.
Beyond the Ice
Think of Greenland and images of ice, polar bears, and emptiness will no doubt spring to mind. In fairness, in a land that’s 80% ice sheet and with a population of just 56,000, this wouldn’t be entirely inaccurate.
However, in western Greenland lies a stretch of verdant Arctic tundra in one of the largest ice-free areas of the country. Here, the Arctic Circle Trail (ACT), the longest waymarked trail in Greenland, runs from the Arctic desert at Kangerlussuaq to the western seaboard at Sisimiut. This spectacular trail passes through some of the most untamed backcountry on Earth.
Leaving Civilization
I began my trek at Kangerlussuaq, where most visitors to Greenland arrive. The initial march out of town follows a dusty road running adjacent to the colossal Kangerlussuaq fjord before branching off into the great Greenlandic wilderness.
As I progressed, the landscape opened up, and the dust of Greenland’s Arctic desert was soon forgotten. Before me lay a countryside that would become commonplace over the coming days: cairns adorned with reindeer antlers, lush glacial lakes, boulder-strewn moraines, and endless green Arctic tundra.
The first day of any long-distance trek is always the hardest. My pack was at its heaviest, the terrain unfamiliar, and the narrow, faint trail challenging to navigate. However, it wasn’t long before I acclimatized to my new surroundings. Consequently, I found cairn-spotting and route-finding more straightforward. Recognizing the subtle differences in terrain became almost second nature, allowing me to appreciate the breathtaking scenery more.
Water sources were abundant in an area known locally as the ‘land of a hundred lakes’. I spent days walking along the shores of great glacial lakes nestled in deep valleys, while in the more mountainous sections, highland pools were always present.
Although the trail runs through a vast area of montane backcountry, steep ascents are generally brief, with the track more likely to undulate along the contours of the terrain rather than over high passes and mountain peaks.
Trail Life
The trail is typically divided into hut-to-hut sections, which makes it easier to identify start and end points. Trekkers generally cover around 20km a day, either staying in a hut or camping nearby. Nevertheless, trekkers soon find their own pace. I only spent one night in a hut when conditions were particularly windy.
Life on the trail quickly settled into a satisfying routine. As the days passed, my pack lightened, and I found my rhythm. I covered greater distances and fell into my own daily routine. Each evening, I pitched my tent close to a lake and enjoyed my dehydrated meal followed by a chocolate bar and a hot drink.
My evenings around my solitary campsite were spent studying the following day’s route and marveling at the surrounding landscape in silence. The main challenge was convincing myself to go to bed. At this time of year, the sun never sets above the Arctic Circle, eliminating any natural bedtime. The light never diminishes.
Generally, I hiked in the mornings, took a leisurely lunch at a hut (a great opportunity to meet other hikers) during the hottest part of the day, before continuing in the cooler afternoons. The huts are basic, unstaffed accommodations with bunk beds capable of sleeping up to six individuals. They are all strategically located near lakes offering stunning views.
Additionally, there is a section of the trek where it’s possible to canoe along Amitsorsuaq Lake, depending on the availability of canoes at the adjacent huts.
While wildlife can be spotted along the trail, observing it in the vast Arctic landscape can be quite challenging. Reindeer are the most common and easiest to see. Muskoxen, Arctic foxes, and hares can also be observed, but fortunately, encountering a polar bear is highly unusual.
People don’t come to the Arctic Circle to socialize, so solo hikers best be comfortable with their own company. I didn’t encounter any groups of hikers, only lone walkers or couples. This isolation, remoteness, and even loneliness add to the allure of the ACT. Upon returning to civilization, the busy streets and the hum of traffic felt shocking after so many days enveloped in silent wilderness.
There is something profoundly elemental about truly disconnecting from the world. A pilgrimage through Greenland’s hinterland is an unparalleled experience that calms, heals, and instills a sense of peace so rarely found in our interconnected society.
There, on the fringes of the known world, I was reminded of the power of nature: its vastness, resilience, and benevolence.
Practicalities
The Arctic Circle Trail in Numbers:
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165km (103 miles)
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7-10 days of trekking
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40-50km north of the Arctic Circle, Western Greenland
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4105m (13,465ft) of ascent/descent
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1500 (approximately) people complete the trail annually
When to Go: The ACT is primarily a summer trail, with June to August presenting warmer temperatures, more consistent weather, and longer days (often never-ending). Nevertheless, trekkers must be prepared for all types of weather conditions.
Preparation: The ACT is suitable only for experienced trekkers. It is a long-distance remote trek, thus, appropriate training and preparation are crucial. Trekkers must be confident in carrying a heavy pack for extended periods with their own food, supplies, and equipment.
Outside support on the trail is highly unlikely. There is no mobile coverage throughout, so trekkers should familiarize themselves with all routes and carry relevant maps, as well as an emergency beacon or satellite phone, in case of inclement weather or wildfires—an increasing phenomenon in the region. The year 2019 saw a record number of fires, leading to several evacuations and prompting authorities to issue an alternative southern route for a section of the trail.
Access: Most international flights to Greenland arrive in Kangerlussuaq from Copenhagen in Denmark. Generally, trekkers begin the trail at Kangerlussuaq and walk westward to Sisimiut, though as the trail gains popularity, more are starting in Sisimiut. Twice daily flights operate between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut in both directions.
Visas: Visas are typically not required for stays of up to 90 days.
