- Travel Stories
- Tanzania
Share
Nov 1, 2021 • 14 min read
Often billed as the world’s ultimate wildlife spectacle, the Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra takes place annually across the plains of East Africa; Amanda Canning travels to Tanzania to try to catch up with the herds.
First Day on Safari: Slow Gnus Day
It’s been an excellent night for the predators of the Serengeti. As the sun starts to inch over the horizon, it reveals a scene of nocturnal carnage. There are bones scattered everywhere, white bones picked clean, and bits of flesh still clinging to them; remnants of the wildlife that once roamed these plains.
Above, vultures wheel through the sky or sit hunched in acacias, inspecting a kill with their characteristic sinister demeanor. Many predators enjoy the last bites of the feast before retreating to their hideouts for the day.
My guide, Noel Akyoo, quickly spots a flurry of activity in the distance, directing our Land Cruiser toward it. A hyena trots past with the body of a Thomson’s gazelle, leading to a group of around 20 hyenas gathered around a wildebeest carcass. They engage in a squabble over scraps, showcasing their chaotic feeding rituals.
The Serengeti’s predators are certainly in their element at this time, which coincides with the Great Migration—the incredible journey of 1.5 million wildebeest and 250,000 zebra following the seasonal rains. It’s an advantageous time for lions, cheetahs, leopards, and wild dogs, who benefit from the sheer abundance of prey.
Despite the abundance of wildlife, I anticipated witnessing larger herds of wildebeest thundering across the plains. However, even though the migration was early this year, glimpses of wildebeest can still be found plodding about.
Noel moves the Land Cruiser from the frenzy of predators, and we trundle along rutted tracks. “We will try and find them,” he comments, noting that the migration has shifted early this year as the herds move south to give birth. Each day in the Serengeti is unpredictable, filled with unique encounters with wildlife.
Notable wildlife includes cheetahs, once off-limits for over 20 years to aid in their population growth. Throughout the day, we observe several cheetahs watching out for potential prey among the grasslands. The male lions, often referred to as the stars of the savannah, sport flowing manes, projecting a sense of majesty.
A unique highlight is the rare sighting of a leopard tucked into the branches of an acacia. Returning to camp, I reflect on the day, knowing it just offers a glimpse of the larger migration event. “There is always tomorrow,” chuckles Noel, reassuringly.
Second Day on Safari: Hot-Air Balloon Over the Serengeti
The day begins under the vast night sky, as the sun rises, I can hear the deep guttural rumble of a distant lion. This sound reverberates through the air, capturing the essence of the wild.
With dawn just breaking, the opportunity arises for a different approach. Instead of searching for the migration on the ground, we venture into the air for a hot-air balloon ride.
Captain Mohamed Masud directs our balloon as we drift above the savannah, observing the trails left by millions of hooves—a testament to the migration’s imprint on this land. Despite the beauty, there is no sign of the big herds that morning. The rainfall has not sufficiently gathered, resulting in the migration being more diffuse than usual.
The vibrant wildlife of the Serengeti year-round, like giraffes and wildebeest, is still present. Although not the millions I expected, they provide a glimpse of the rich life found here.
Upon descending, we track down a herd of several hundred wildebeest moving toward the river. However, they hesitate when faced with crossing a road. This delay accentuates their innate nature of following others, highlighting their hesitation without a designated leader guiding them.
With the rain clouds beginning to gather on the horizon, the anticipation for the next leg of the migration intensifies. Nevertheless, every minute spent observing the life and biodiversity of the Serengeti is invaluable.
Third Day on Safari: Cheetahs Hunting on the Serengeti Plains
As the migration heads south, we take a light aircraft to follow suit to the next site in the southern Serengeti. From the air, we spot a large herd of wildebeest, moving gracefully across the plains, presenting a stunning visual of their migratory patterns.
At our destination, my guide Charles Joseph leads us to a group of thousands of wildebeest with a few zebras mixed in. They have been circling through the area for days in search of water.
This ecosystem proves to be a vital stage for predators as they prepare for the night. Just as we’re about to lose hope, Charles spots a cheetah and her cub hiding behind an acacia. “Cheetahs need to hunt during the day, as they rank lower in the predator hierarchy,” he explains, linking predator dynamics to the overall survival strategy.
As we track the cheetah, the savannah transforms into a soggy field from the rains. Eventually, she spots two oblivious gazelles and takes off in a surprising burst of speed. Within moments, one of the gazelles finds itself in her hold. The mother and cub take turns feeding, continuously vigilant against scavengers.
“You can’t relax for a second out here,” Charles warns, as vultures circle overhead, hinting that hyenas will soon appear. Fortunately, the only visitors are dung beetles, celebrating their feast among the remains of the gazelle.
Fourth Day on Safari: Wild Dogs and Death on the Great Migration
Overnight, the landscape transforms; the migration passes through our camp like a bustling highway. Nevertheless, we decide to travel further south, where the recent rains have lured even more herds.
At the crest of the Maru Hills, we are greeted by an expanse teeming with life—a true paradise for grazing creatures. Gnus, zebras, and a mix of wildlife fill the area, while elephants playfully splash in the rivers. This lush environment would entice any wildebeest to cover miles for sustenance.
While returning to our camp, we witness thousands of wildebeest stampeding, driven by the instincts of a wild dog pack trying to assess its targets. A scene of confusion ensues, with dust clouds swirling as groans and barks create a cacophony of noise.
Suddenly, everything vanishes in a cloud of dust. As the chaos settles, we spot the pack isolating a young wildebeest. “These dogs are phenomenal hunters, relentless until they achieve their goal,” explains Charles, detailing the hunt as it unfolds.
Although it takes inconceivable time for the young wildebeest to succumb, the tenacity of the wild dogs is evident. Just as one dog retrieves its prize, I am compelled back to my camp, where herds of zebras and wildebeests continue their slow procession. The steady passing of these creatures highlights the circle of life in the Serengeti.
When to Go on a Great Migration Safari in the Serengeti
The migration follows a path each year, traveling back and forth between the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Masai Mara in Kenya. However, precise timing can vary annually, influenced by seasonal rains. It’s advisable to align with a knowledgeable tour operator or camp that can adapt your itinerary based on the herd’s movements. Below is a general guide:
- January to March: Grazing and calving in the southern Serengeti
- April to May: Herds begin to move north through the central Serengeti
- June to August: The crossing of the Mara River into the Masai Mara
- September to October: Grazing in the Masai Mara
- November to December: Return south, beginning the cycle anew
Need to Know
Getting to the Serengeti
Accessing the Serengeti typically requires a two-stop journey, often flying through Nairobi or Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania. Once there, you can take a light aircraft to one of the region’s airstrips, with lodges offering guidance on the best options.
Getting Around the Serengeti
Light aircraft serve as transport throughout the Serengeti, collecting passengers from various points within the park, often with stopping points en route. Lodges will coordinate pickups from the airstrips.
Amanda Canning traveled to Tanzania with support from Audley Travel. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
