Discovering the Hidden Treasures of Tuscany’s Garfagnana Region
“Every day I walk the vines,” says Gabriele da Prato, gesturing to the lush foliage surrounding us. “All of my senses are involved. I’m looking, smelling, touching, listening, tasting. I’m having a conversation with nature. I’m in harmony with the earth.”
Walking the vines isn’t the only way the esoteric winemaker harmonizes with the earth. From time to time, he serenades them with a few bars from his jazz trombone, too.
Hidden Valley of Tuscany
We’re standing on a hillside at Podere Còncori, a small, biodynamic vineyard nestled into a corner of Tuscany not much known for its wine. In fact, the area is hardly known at all. But producers like Gabriele may change that, attracting travelers seeking to escape Chianti’s crowds and forge a fresh path into the popular region.
Exploring Garfagnana’s Richness
Deep in Tuscany’s northwestern reaches lies a hidden valley that remains one of Italy’s most untapped locales. Absent are the classic, calendar page vistas — no vast sunflower fields or undulating rows of grape in sight. Instead, steeply forested ridges and verdant countryside framed on one side by the Apuan Alps — whose marble Michelangelo honed into masterpieces — and the Apennines on the other defines the wild Serchio Valley.
Throughout the region known as the Garfagnana, pocket-sized medieval villages tucked into rugged hillsides await exploration. Weekly markets spill with porcini mushrooms, acacia honey, cured biroldo salami, and pasta made with flour milled from the region’s plump chestnuts. Biodynamic winemakers like Gabriele tend their vines in conjunction with the phases of the moon.
Staying at Renaissance Tuscany Resort and Spa
The taxi winds up a long driveway lined with olive trees and lush lavender hedges and delivers me to the Renaissance Tuscany Resort and Spa. Perched on a hill within the historic Il Ciocco Estate, the hotel’s sweeping terrace and bright, salmon-pink walls dripping with heady wisteria clusters make it feel like an elegant Italian villa.
From my balcony, I can see the ancient town of Barga, its Tuscan-hued buildings — cream, ochre, rust — glowing in the afternoon sunlight, mountains in the background cloaked in cloud cover. I’d been traveling for close to 17 hours, but the tiny town’s terracotta rooftops and cobbled alleyways beckon, a call I can’t refuse.
Exploring Barga
I find myself hitching a ride with Georges Midleje, gregarious manager of the Renaissance, who zips me down from Il Ciocco and deposits me beside the entrance to Barga’s medieval hub with a wave of his cigar. Georges may just be the region’s biggest fan. In an era when the word ‘authentic’ has become cliché, the description still holds true in the Serchio Valley. “This is the real Tuscany,” Georges tells me while simultaneously gesturing at the scenery.
The sky opens moments after I pass through Porta Reale, one of two remaining gates leading through the town’s ancient fortifications. I dart along Via Mezzo to a small piazza and wait out the cloudburst beneath a stone and wood-beamed arcade at Caffé Capretz, sipping Campari and soda.
The dampness left behind by the rain intensifies the chalky scent of the medieval cobblestones and I breathe deeply of the centuries as I follow deserted viccoli upward to the Duomo San Cristoforo, Barga’s Romanesque cathedral. Standing beside the castle-like church, with its lush lawn and piazza overlooking the Apennines’ verdant ridges, feels more like being in the Scottish Highlands than the Tuscan hills. A fact that is perhaps apropos given that Barga is considered the most Scottish town in Italy.
Though the town springs to life a couple of times each year when it hosts its summer jazz and opera festivals, today I have Barga — its streets, its cathedral, its views — all to myself, a degree of solitude visitors to Tuscany’s more trodden hilltowns rarely experience.
Discovering Local Flavors
On our way back to Il Ciocco, I mention to Georges that I forgot to buy Parmesan cheese. Seconds later, he swings the car to the curb and cuts the ignition, calling “this is where you get the best parmigiana in all of Italy!” as he disappears into a shop across the street.
For over 100 years, Alimentari Caproni has been provisioning Barga family kitchens. While Georges sings their praises, the brothers busy themselves with the parmigiana. They provide us with a delightful snack while I browse the wares.
Morning Adventures in Garfagnana
Early the next morning, I set out to explore Garfagnana’s rugged side. In recent years the region has made a name for itself within Italy’s adventure travel market. I opt to take a gentler path into the wilderness, hiking the Cinque Borghi, a 10-kilometer jaunt linking five ancient hamlets amidst deep chestnut forest.
The Art of Biodynamic Winemaking
Appetite piqued by a morning of exercise, I head back toward Barga for lunch with Gabriele at Podere Còncori. He warmly greets me and introduces Matteo, who leads visitors into the rows of vines to share the principles behind the farm’s biodynamic winemaking practices.
Biodynamic agriculture seeks to function in harmony with the earth, and Gabriele decided to bring winemaking back to its roots. Today, Podere Còncori produces several varieties, each infused with the vineyard’s unique terroir.
Inside the tasting room, several small tables are laid elegantly for lunch. Michela has prepared a delicious meal, featuring pasta with fresh tomato sauce followed by cured meats and a selection of cheeses from nearby Caseficio Marovelli. The experience is further enhanced by generous pours of Podere Còncori’s award-winning Melograno.
Conclusion
As I wake on my last morning in Garfagnana, I reflect on how this place bursts with life, past and present. The people of the Serchio Valley are committed to carrying their rich culture into the future, ensuring that the traditions of this unspoiled Tuscan corner continue to flourish.
Where to Stay
The best part about the Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort and Spa may just be its deep connection to the surrounding territory and local producers. Guests are encouraged to explore the ancient towns, sampling regional specialties.
Where to Eat and Drink
Scacciaguai
Located down a narrow street in Barga, this trattoria serves traditional Garfagnana fare that will help you abandon your troubles.
Caseficio Marovelli
Produced by Romina Marovelli and her family, a visit to the factory offers a fascinating tour and a chance to taste their cheese.
Podere Còncori
Guests can enjoy tastings of Podere Còncori’s varietals followed by lunch and wine tasting at the nearby vineyard.
Osteria Il Vecchio Molino
Chef Andrea Bertucci delivers a unique culinary experience showcasing local flavors in his rustic Tuscan osteria.
Things to Do
The Serchio Valley is known for adventure activities like whitewater rafting and mountain biking. Visitors can explore its ancient history through hikes around medieval hamlets.
