Explore the Scenic Wild Coastal Trail in Pukaskwa National Park

The map indicates that in good weather, the Pukaskwa Coastal Trail can be a fantastic hike. Conversely, the Wild Coastal Trail of Pukaskwa National Park can be quite challenging when the weather is poor. Our hopes were set on favorable weather conditions.

Deb and I felt a bit anxious all summer as we approached our final adventure of the year – the Pukaskwa trek. We constantly reassured one another that we needed to embark on some day hikes to regain our fitness. However, instead, we found ourselves enjoying our summer by going whitewater kayaking and rafting, paddling the slate islands, capturing moments on a moose safari, and even visiting Universal Studios for the grand opening of Diagonally.

Pukaskwa Lake Superior Coastal Trail

While trekking the Arctic headwaters last winter, one of our guides mentioned, “You realize the Pukaskwa is a tough trek, right?” “More challenging than this?” I wondered. At that moment, we were snowshoeing 100 km over snow and ice, lugging 100 lb sleds through deep slush and navigating difficult portages. To hear her say the Pukaskwa was hard seemed unfathomable.

A few weeks prior to our Pukaskwa adventure, it dawned on us that we might be in over our heads, and we would simply need to embrace the experience.

Where to Stay when Doing the Pukaskwa Trek

We gathered at Naturally Superior Adventures on the shores of Lake Superior in Wawa the evening before our hike. They provide guided tours of the Pukaskwa and various other Lake Superior ventures. It’s a wonderful spot to unwind before the long hike ahead.

Our guide, Brendan, a youthful and fit 22-year-old, had already explored various locations worldwide. From ice climbing on glaciers to whitewater kayaking on tumultuous rivers, he had experienced it all. I sincerely hoped we could keep pace with him.

That night before the trek was restless. The temptation to stay in the cozy lodge with soft duvets was strong. Given the chilly conditions near Lake Superior, we were soon trading the fireplace for sleeping bags, but surprisingly, we felt prepared. We could conquer this!

Shuttle to North Swallow

Upon our arrival at the park headquarters in Hattie Cove, the weather shifted dramatically. However, our shuttle was ready to take us to the trailhead, so we boarded the boat, anticipating the journey ahead.

During our 60 km boat ride up the coast to North Swallow, we encountered severe waves and heavy fog. The word horrible resonated in our minds. As Dave and I reminisced about the treacherous Drake Passage crossing to Antarctica, other passengers opted to step outside for fresh air to stave off nausea.

What should have been a 1 1/2 hour ride morphed into a 3-4 hour rollercoaster. Miraculously, the skies cleared just 10 minutes before we reached our destination, revealing the stunning shores of Lake Superior. The waters calmed right in time for our arrival. By the time we reached the beach, the day was warm, and the sky was a brilliant blue.

Start of the Coastal Hiking Trail

Most hikers opt to take the boat 30 km up the coast, allowing them to hike half of the Pukaskwa. Others may choose to do day hikes from the main office, but a few adventurers, like us, decided to tackle the entire stretch. Starting from North Swallow, you journey through a wild, untamed landscape of the Canadian Shield and Boreal Forest.

If you lack substantial hiking experience, as we did, due to the scant trail markers, it’s wise to hire a guide. Thankfully, we had Brendan leading us, ensuring we wouldn’t take any wrong turns.

Carry Everything In and Out

For the initial half of our trek, our packs were exceedingly heavy. We needed to carry all our food and gear on our backs. For water, we utilized a purification system to fill our bottles each evening with lake water, ensuring we had clean water for the next day.

Moreover, we also had to carry out all garbage from the national park. This hike follows the ‘leave no trace’ ethos, ensuring that Northern Ontario’s natural beauty remains unblemished.

Adjusting to Life on the Trail

The first hour was primarily about acclimating to our packs. We had little experience hiking on steep cliffs or jagged rocks with such substantial weight. Navigating over boulders proved challenging; where we might have typically leapt from rock to rock, we now struggled to maintain balance.

Pack Hiking Poles

Naturally Superior provided some hiking poles, which we greatly appreciated. Initially, we hesitated to take them, but within 10 minutes of walking, we were grateful for their support as they helped prevent us from losing our balance.

The trek commenced with a gentle elevation gain, and after about an hour, we found ourselves atop a rock ledge surveying the vast expanse of the lake.

The Weather was on our Side

Brendan remarked that the trek becomes easier as we approach head office. “Once we’re five days in, we’ll access a better trail and an easier path,” he claimed. Surprisingly, we didn’t find the hike too daunting, which led me to question the prevailing narrative of the trail’s difficulty.

I kept inquiring, “What do people find challenging about this?”

Brendan then explained, “Imagine climbing up these rocks with rain pouring down; it would be akin to climbing on ice.”

Indeed, I imagined the trail in the rain and recognized that ‘horrible’ was an accurate description. The rocks, roots, and trails would transform into a perilous challenge, making it uncomfortable and potentially hazardous. Thankfully, we enjoyed wondrous weather throughout our time in Pukaskwa National Park.

Different Terrain of the Pukaskwa Trek

We meandered pleasantly through the dense forests, frequently stopping to snap photographs while enjoying breathtaking vistas during our midday breaks.

Campgrounds on the Pukaskwa

We had pre-arranged campsites for our trek, providing us with clear distance goals for each day. By the time we arrived at the campsites, both Dave and I were utterly exhausted, and our feet throbbed with fatigue. Fortunately, Lake Superior was frigid; we relished the sensation of dipping our toes in, almost as if we were indulging in a natural foot spa.

Having a guide eased our experience considerably. We set up our tent while Brendan prepared us scrumptious vegetarian dinners. If you’re planning to explore Northern Ontario, this is truly the way to do it!

The Coastal Hiking Trail

Hiking the Pukaskwa trail proved to be a true test of endurance. We struggled, huffed, and puffed. Some days, all I could think about was reaching camp to lie down, while other days brought an invigorating excitement for the challenges ahead.

On the first day, we were pleasantly surprised by how much we enjoyed ourselves. This experience wasn’t too bad after all. Yes, the packs were heavy, our feet were sore, and the heat weighed on us, but we were in great company, surrounded by stunning scenery and guided by an excellent leader. Considering all these factors, how could we possibly fail?

How to Get to the Pukaskwa National Park

To embark on a guided hike through Pukaskwa, be sure to visit the Naturally Superior Adventures website. They also organize kayaking and canoeing excursions on Lake Superior. For more details about Pukaskwa, check out the Parks Canada Pukaskwa Website.