Sailing Adventures in the Spanish Virgin Islands: Exploring Culebrita

Discover the breathtaking beauty and adventure of the Spanish Virgin Islands while sailing on a memorable journey through paradise.

Paradise Found in Culebrita: the Spanish Virgin Islands

By Jean Miller Spoljaric

Although my tan lines have faded, the memories of sailing around the Spanish Virgin Islands on a 38-foot boat remain vivid. While many travelers opt for land vacations, a week spent sailing with newfound friends is an experience that awakens the spirit of adventure.

Few are aware of the enchanting charm of the Spanish Virgin Islands (SVI), characterized by their secluded landscapes, pristine beaches, and azure waters. Highlights of my journey included swimming with turtles at Playa de las Tortugas on Culebrita and snorkeling amidst vibrant marine life around Cayo Icacos and Bahia Tomarindo.

As I ventured off the boat, I hiked to an ancient, decaying lighthouse that provided panoramic views of the azure expanse below. Amidst nature’s beauty, our seamanship was put to the test as we navigated a squall in the Canal de Cayo Norte en route to Culebrita.

A Night on the Town

My adventure commenced in Old San Juan, where I arrived a day early to familiarize myself with the area. After meeting my captain and fellow crew members, we savored Monfongo—a local delicacy made from fried plantains—before spending the evening playing pool and enjoying Medalla, the local beer.

Initially, I was skeptical of the small cans, but they quickly became a favored choice at the lively El Batey, a dive bar adorned with graffiti and a rustic, open-air ceiling. The nostalgic music from the jukebox and the overly attentive bartender fostered camaraderie among our group as we shared in the revelry.

Rainbows and Hangovers

Awakening the next morning to the sound of rain, I was greeted by a brilliant double rainbow as the storm passed. Eager to embark on our voyage, I made my way to Puerto Del Rey Marina in Fajardo, excited to board the beautiful ‘Eugenie,’ our 38-foot vessel, alongside her counterpart, the 49-foot ‘Big Blue.’

The Family Boat

Upon meeting our crew aboard the ‘Eugenie,’ we quickly formed bonds and affectionately renamed our boat the ‘Family Boat.’ Our captain Max’s father, affectionately dubbed ‘Poppy,’ joined the ranks, while I, as the oldest female, proudly took on the title of ‘Mamacita.’ Rounding out our crew were Max’s sister Ana, his cousin Alexis, and crew members Susan and Rachel.

In Captains We Trust

The trip was diligently organized by the experienced captains of the Sailing Collective, who arranged everything from provisions to transportation. Their familiarity with Sail Caribe’s fleet facilitated our easy island-hopping adventure.

While one part of me wishes to keep this hidden gem a secret, I cannot help but share the joy of setting sail from this idyllic locale. The steady trade winds, crystal-clear waters, unspoiled beaches, local rum, and vibrant marine life all contributed to the paradise that is bareboat sailing in the SVI.

Seven Islands in Seven Days

Among the islands, Culebra stood out with its charming town brimming with colorful shops, dining establishments, and bars. For a delightful meal, head to Mamacita’s Restaurant for fresh local seafood and a potent rum punch. For a more unpretentious experience, I recommend The Dinghy Dock, where I enjoyed a scrumptious breakfast burrito and shared laughs with interesting locals.

Death of our Dinghy

After departing Culebra and before reaching Culebrita, our dinghy experienced a broken fuel line, a significant inconvenience. Despite searching local marine yards, we were unable to find a replacement. Thankfully, our sailing companions on Big Blue graciously lent us their dinghy. Most trips to shore turned into spontaneous swims, and Poppy’s ingenuity shone as he crafted a temporary fix for our dinghy, using just a ballpoint pen and a pocket knife.

Free Moorings

The majority of the uninhabited islands, as well as parts of Culebra and Vieques, are protected nature reserves. As a result, most of the beachfront is undeveloped and accessible only by boat or four-wheel drive vehicles. To preserve the marine environment, numerous free mooring balls are available in nearly every harbor.

Culebrita, affectionately called ‘baby Culebra,’ is an extraordinary island. As we moored our boat, several turtles gracefully swam by, welcoming us to their untouched haven. With a full moon lighting up the white sands and azure waters, Captain Max hosted a delightful paella party. Laughter and stories exchanged under the stars created unforgettable memories.

The following day, our land excursion led us ashore to explore an abandoned lighthouse. Although the climb up its rusted, precarious staircase raised questions about safety, the view from the top was worth the risk. The lighthouse’s legacy endures despite missing parts, leaving traces of its past elegance.

Back to Civilization

By day five, we anchored off the vibrant town of Esperanza on Vieques, where after some initial hiccups with anchoring, we finally secured our vessels. Lunch and a rum punch awaited us at the colorful Malecon, alive with shops and bars, where we enjoyed the breathtaking sunset views from Duffy’s Bar.

Poppy’s friend David, now a Vieques resident, helped us secure a dinner reservation for our party of seventeen at the Trade Winds Restaurant, conveniently located near Duffy’s. As we walked to the restaurant, we encountered a scene of rural chaos—a calf had escaped from a pickup truck. With a swift effort, David and I managed to load the young calf back into the truck, earning a wave of gratitude from the driver.

Bombing Zone No More

Up until 2003, the U.S. Navy utilized Vieques as a weapons testing site. Until recently, prospective sailors had to convince charter companies from neighboring islands that it was safe to sail here. However, with a charter company established in Fajardo, the allure of these picturesque waters is slowly becoming accessible to sailors.

Just Do It!

If you are an avid sailor or a novice seeking adventure, I wholeheartedly endorse exploring the offerings from the Sailing Collective. If you’re single, it’s an excellent opportunity to connect with others, whereas families may consider chartering a full boat. A sailing vacation is akin to camping on water, where you’re rocked to sleep by gentle waves and awoken by the sunrise—truly a lifestyle of everyday paradise!