From taking a handful of courses in art history at university to recently spending my free time exploring new trail running races around Europe, art and running have always been my great interests. What better way to combine them than running in the footsteps of two of my favourite artists, Paul Cézanne and Vincent van Gogh, on a quick autumn weekend trip to Provence?
Chasing Cézanne in Aix-en-Provence
On a sunny Friday afternoon, Cézanne’s native town of Aix-en-Provence exudes elegance, beauty, and tranquillity. As I arrive, locals sip coffees at terraced cafés down the Cours Mirabeau (the “southern Champs-Élysées”), while chic ladies stroll around the shops in the Old Town.
Early the next morning, I cut a very different figure lacing up my trainers to explore the city before the 30°C heat sets in. Running to see the sights allows me to follow Cézanne’s life and culminates in enjoying a view of his favourite landscape – Mont Sainte Victoire. This mountain soars out of the lavender-covered lowlands; the rich purple hues merge with the tree-lined slopes, greens and purples crashing together like on Cézanne’s palette as he painted the mountain from his atelier north of town.
My run begins at the statue of Paul Cézanne, adjacent to the Fontaine de la Rotonde that spouts water into the crisp morning air. Cézanne gazes over the town like a benevolent patriarch – his look guiding my run. Making my way up the main street past fountains dating back to Roman times, I soon reach the legendary Café des Deux Garçons where he mingled with artists and writers. I note to return for a glass of rosé later, a local favourite. Next door, the old faded sign of the artist’s father’s hat shop above a bank serves as a small token of his life here.
Although it’s quiet now, the scene will soon buzz with activity. Turning through narrow, maze-like streets, I am suddenly overwhelmed by the colours, sounds, and scents emanating from the market stalls being set up in Place Richelme. Luckily, finding my way is easy as I follow the gold buckles inscribed with Cézanne’s name on the pavement. These are designed to keep visitors on track, guiding them to the highlights of Aix-en-Provence’s connection with the painter. They lead me to Cathédrale St-Sauveur, the site of his funeral, where Romanesque, Baroque, and Gothic elements combine. The sun begins to warm the sleeping town, its rays worth the effort, as I make my way up the hill to the entrance of Cézanne’s studio, planning to return during opening hours for an in-depth exploration.
Climbing to the Terrain des Peintres
Paul Cézanne lived and worked high on the hill above the Old Town, surrounded by ever-changing views of unspoilt nature and abundant light. However, this is not the destination for today’s run – I continue to climb higher until I reach the pinnacle, the Terrain des Peintres (Painters’ Grounds).
This small park attracts art lovers like bees to honey, offering views of “Cézanne’s Mountain” – Mont Sainte Victoire. While admiring the majestic 1011m-high peak rising above Provence, I channel Cézanne himself, marveling at its grandeur. I am out of breath from my run in lightweight gear, thus can only imagine the effort involved in carrying an easel, paints, and brushes! Cézanne did this every morning, and I now find myself surrounded by plaques showcasing the many representations of Mont Sainte Victoire he left behind.
With my run complete, I head to my hotel to shower and shelter from the day’s heat in the Musée Granet, where the great painter took drawing classes and where 11 of his paintings are displayed. I then enjoy my planned glass of rosé, heading to bed early in preparation for the next morning’s journey.
To extend your run further, the Aix Tourist Office offers a number of maps and directions to reach the trail heads for Mont Sainte Victoire and to ascend to the summit.
Running with Van Gogh in Arles
While Cézanne lived and worked in his native Provence for much of his life, Vincent van Gogh ventured here from his native Netherlands to discover the coastal French natural beauty and light.
He settled in Arles, where he found inspiration to create some of the most vibrant paintings of modern history. However, it was technically a tumultuous period in his life when he famously cut off his ear and institutionalized himself.
After a short journey to Arles, I am greeted by an ancient metropolis of Roman Gaul, home to Vincent’s most prolific creative period. Consequently, I’m lucky to run “into” several of his paintings here, thanks to informative plaques placed at the locations where he stood to immortalise the views.
My run follows the “Vincent” tiles on the pavement from outside the Tourist Office. First, I stop at the hospital where he was interned multiple times and whose beautiful interior courtyard he painted. It’s a tranquil place, allowing you to search for, and find, serenity. However, I don’t linger too long, as I am eager to dive into the “real” Van Gogh: the strong colours, bold visions, and extraordinary imagination.
Just under half a mile later, I arrive at the Terrasse du café de le soir in the Place du Forum (now known as Cafè Van Gogh), just as depicted by Van Gogh in 1888 in Café Terrace at Night. The owners have fully embraced their connection to the famous painting, ensuring the vibrant yellow walls are well maintained.
Down to the Rhône
From here, I head down to the banks of the Rhône River, passing by several plaques commemorating various pictures of the Pont de Trinquetaille, which Vincent immortalised. The riverbanks are as Van Gogh painted them, describing the scene as “the stones, the asphalt, the pavement are grey, the sky pale blue.”
Unfortunately, I won’t get to witness the Rhône under the Van Gogh emblematic starry skies of Starry Night over the Rhône. Nevertheless, I enjoy the sunshine as I make my way to the square where his former home once stood. This location, destroyed by bombing in 1944, features a plaque depicting what the area looked like in Van Gogh’s painting, The Yellow House. Most of the surrounding architecture remains: the railroad bridge, the corner street, even the buildings behind it.
A visit to Arles is incomplete without exploring the impressive Roman Arena, which still serves as a working theater. Van Gogh painted its lively atmosphere, capturing the mingling crowds beneath shadows and light. Finally, I conclude my journey at the serene Alyscamps Graveyard, where tree-lined alleys next to the Craponne Canal were painted by both Van Gogh and Paul Gauguin. The rhythmic sequence of tree trunks against a backdrop of yellow and orange paths remains unchanged, making it an ideal spot to wrap up my two runs, sheltered from the sun by the plane trees.
For those seeking to deepen their Van Gogh pilgrimage, 25km from Arles lies the historic Roman site of Glanum as well as Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Here, you can visit a faithful reconstitution of the room where the painter was interned at the hospice in Saint-Paul-de-Mausole. This is where he painted the renowned The Starry Night. The journey will take you through fields of sunflowers that famously inspired Van Gogh.
Sightrunning to Stand Still
Running to the spots where these paintings were created feels like travelling back in time, bringing me closer to my favourite artists. I connect with Cézanne’s peaceful world in Aix, while also relating to Van Gogh’s tumultuous years in Arles. My final glass of rosé raised to their memory back at the Café de la Nuit prompts reflection on their legacy and solidifies my resolve to run up Mont Sainte Victoire one day!
Make It Happen
To reach Aix-en-Provence, take the Eurostar to Paris or Lille, and switch to a TGV (this is easier in Lille where you just change platforms; in Paris, you’ll need to take the RER train from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon for your connection). From here, you can also hop onto the TGV to Arles via Marseille and step into Vincent van Gogh’s world with a tour of his inspiration spots during his most prolific period.
To get to Arles, take the Eurostar to Lille and change to the TGV for a first incursion into the world of art in Cézanne’s footsteps. From there, a TGV ride via Marseille brings you to Van Gogh’s town. Alternatively, you can fly from Stansted to Marseille airport and hop on a train from there.
