Summary
The Roman baths in the city of Bath were not just any old thermal springs. Restoration has revealed just how special they were. After a visit, try the magical waters yourself in the 21st-century spa.
Bathhouses were common places to socialize all over the Roman World. However, the bath center dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva in the English city of Bath, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was unique.
Nowhere else in the Roman Empire has such a large and complex arrangement of baths, treatment rooms, and shrines ever been discovered, with all of it heated naturally in a manner that is still somewhat mysterious today.
It pours out of the ground at more than a million liters a day, every day, and has done so reliably for thousands of years. The water gushing out of the springs (with at least three separate springs in Bath) likely fell as rain on the surrounding hills long before the Romans existed, around 10,000 years ago. For the Romans, it was miraculous. Moreover, even with modern scientific knowledge of geology and aquifers, this phenomenon remains astounding. Hot mineral water flows at a rate of 13 liters per second, and archaeological excavations suggest human activity around the spring as long as 8,000 years ago.
The Roman Baths Restored and Reinterpreted
Well into the 1990s, a visit to the Roman Baths in the UNESCO World Heritage city of Bath involved navigating dank, semi-dark ruins that were poorly explained and, frankly, a bit dull.
The concept of these 2,000-year-old Roman baths, only uncovered in the mid-19th century and opened to the public in the late 1800s, was certainly more exciting than the initial experience.
Until 1978, visitors occasionally swam in the algae-tinted waters of the Great Bath, and some smaller baths were utilized for therapeutic treatments. However, the need for upkeep and the discovery of dangerous bacteria in the outdated piping led to the baths becoming off-limits.
All Change for the Millennium
This changed dramatically in 1997 when Heritage Lottery Fund money facilitated a massive revival. A new public facility, the multi-million-pound spa complex, Thermae Bath Spa, opened in 2006. The Roman baths, also referred to as the King’s Bath, reopened with vastly improved museum exhibits and multimedia presentations.
These days, swimming in the original Roman baths is not permitted, but their story is told in a more engaging manner. Visitors can explore the passages, walk along the pools, and learn about the sacred spring, changing rooms, saunas, and the remains of the Temple of Minerva with an audioguide in hand. You can:
- Listen to the private gossip of Roman matrons, politicians, and merchants while watching films based on the real lives of the citizens of Aquae Sulis;
- Discover how Emperor Hadrian prohibited mixed bathing to maintain the sanctity of Sulis Minerva’s shrine;
- Learn about the construction and maintenance of the baths;
- Engage in conversation with a “Roman” on a bench beside the Great Bath.
Hot tip: It’s recommended to visit the Roman Baths in the morning to avoid tiredness from a day’s sightseeing.
Essentials
- Where: The Roman Baths, Abbey Church Yard, Bath BA1 1LZ
- Telephone: +44 (0)1225 477785 for general inquiries or 24-hour information line – +44 (0)1225 477867
- Admission: Adult, senior, child, and family tickets available. A combined ticket for the Roman Baths and the Fashion Museum is offered.
- Open: The baths are open daily except Christmas and Boxing Day, from around 9 or 9:30 am to 4:30 or 5 pm, with extended hours during July and August.
- Visit their website
The Modern Thermae Bath Spa
After exploring the Roman Baths and the hills of Bath, what better way to soothe aching muscles than visiting the Thermae Bath Spa? Here, you can immerse yourself in the city’s fascinating hot mineral waters.
The Roman spring continues to release hot water at 46°C (approximately 115°F) at a remarkable rate of 1,170,000 liters (257,364 gallons) per day. The water is diverted through clean, modern pipes into pristine facilities. The temperature can also be adjusted with the addition of cold water, ensuring a pleasant experience without the risk of overheating. Moreover, as a public facility, sessions in the naturally hot waters are often quite affordable.
What to Expect
The spa is housed in two Georgian buildings, where sections of early Bath stone structures are complemented by modern aqua-tinted glass. The New Royal Bath features the main pools, changing rooms, steam rooms, rain showers, treatment rooms, and a café. The Cross Bath, in a Grade I Listed, Robert Adam-style building, is home to one of the original springs and boasts its own fascinating history.
Entry to the Royal Bath is offered in two-hour, four-hour, or all-day sessions. Various packages are available, including a twilight package featuring dinner in the café. Visitors receive an aqua-colored wristband with embedded electronics that operate the entrance turnstiles and lockers. Slippers, towels, and robes can be rented. Moreover, treatments like massages and therapies can be booked, with their duration counted as part of your session.
The Thermae Bath Spa is municipally operated, and considerations of energy saving, cost control, and health and safety are prioritized over the opulent luxuries typical of private spas. Consequently, steam rooms may not be as hot as expected, and the variety of scents in different steam chambers might be minimal. Special features like rain showers or hydrotherapy bubbles may operate on timed cycles that might seem frequently “off.” Additionally, some pools, particularly the indoor Minerva Bath, can become quite crowded.
This is not necessarily disadvantageous. After all, the Roman Baths were also community facilities, likely bustling with visitors. It creates an authentic and enjoyable experience, provided expectations are managed accordingly.
The Star Attraction
The highlight of the visit is undoubtedly the rooftop pool. If the weather is chilly, you may feel rushed getting in and out of the hot water. However, once you settle into Britain’s only natural hot springs, the sight of Bath Abbey’s spires and the surrounding hills peeking through steam creates a magical ambiance. In winter, with darkness falling as early as 3:30 p.m. in England, you can enjoy twilight sessions while the stars begin to appear.
The Cross Bath
If you desire a quieter experience, consider visiting The Cross Bath, located across the street from the main facility. This small bath, housed in a Grade I listed building, was rebuilt in the 1790s but has roots dating back even further and may sit atop the original pre-Roman sacred spring. It is mentioned in early 16th-century literature.
In the 17th century, Mary of Modena, the second wife of King James II, visited the Cross Bath on a doctor’s advice to conceive a child. She succeeded, although contemporary accounts challenged the efficacy of the waters at that time, as the Cross Bath had developed a somewhat unsavory reputation.
Nonetheless, such rumors were likely tied to anti-Catholic sentiments and propaganda. Shortly after giving birth, the Catholic James II was ousted, making way for the Dutch Protestant William of Orange.
Today, The Cross Bath offers a serene experience with capacity for only a few visitors at a time. Sessions are shorter—1.5 hours instead of 2—which might justify the slightly higher price. If you are looking for a peaceful soak under the sky, this is the ideal spot. Changing facilities for up to 12 people are available, and booking the Cross Bath for private events is an option. Given its intriguing history, a baby shower could be a fitting occasion.
While there, you can dip your toe into the waters of the specially commissioned, modern fountain at the head of the pool. This is the only place in Bath where you can feel the hot spring water, undiluted with cooler water, coming straight from the ground.
Health Through Water
The Romans embraced the notion of salus per aquam—health through water. Some believe the term “spa” derives from the initials of this phrase. They utilized the extensive facilities at Bath to socialize, enhance their health, engage in spiritual activities, and meditate.
You can savor this experience by following your visit to the Roman Baths with some time spent enjoying the natural hot spring water at Thermae Bath Spa. To sample this offering, consider the Spas Ancient & Modern package. It includes admission to the Roman Baths, a two-hour session at the modern spa, and either a three-course set lunch or a champagne tea in the Pump Room, all for £81.50 per person on weekdays (£84.50 on weekends). More information can be provided by the Bath Tourist Information Center.
Various spa packages and treatments are available daily, except Christmas, Boxing Day, and New Year’s Day. Most sessions and treatments can be arranged in advance at 01225 33 1234 or, for overseas inquiries, +44 (0) 1225 33 1234. For additional details on current schedules, packages, and prices, visit their website.
When You Go
When visiting, take a moment to appreciate the extraordinary experience of bathing in the UK’s only natural hot spring. You will connect with history, sharing an experience with those who lived, gossiped, negotiated deals, and found joy in these waters thousands of years ago.
