Downtown Los Angeles Neon Renaissance
Downtown Los Angeles, once considered a no-go zone, is experiencing a remarkable transformation, illuminated by the historic allure of neon signs. This revitalization is a testament to the hard work of individuals passionate about preserving this iconic aspect of LA culture. Here’s an overview of the Los Angeles neon renaissance:
Saving LA’s Neon
During World War II, the city’s neon signs were turned off to mitigate fears of Japanese attacks, and many were never lit again. However, 25 years ago, Havana-born Adolfo Nodal, who worked for LA’s cultural affairs department, took steps to reinvigorate the city’s neon landscape. He embarked on the monumental task of re-illuminating Los Angeles’ neon after decades of darkness.
Nodal began with the striking rooftop signs designed to attract drivers on the newly constructed freeways, primarily advertising hotels and apartments.
“On the rooftops, the total re-enforcing of the scaffold structure was the first step,” Nodal explains. “Fortunately, they were well built between the late 1920s and early 1940s by migrating steel workers from the east coast.”
The restoration process involved meticulous work, including stripping and repairing channel letters, complete electrical fittings, new wiring, and installing fresh neon glass, gas, and electrodes. With the addition of high-quality transformers, these signs are once again shining brightly.
This was merely the starting point. From Wilshire Corridor to Hollywood, famous for its historic cinemas and vibrant theaters, Adolfo and his team, known as Lumens, have successfully restored 185 signs over the past 25 years.
Bright Lights on Broadway
Tour guide Stuart Wood has become a connoisseur of these revitalized signs, showcasing them on his dynamic bar tours. These excursions offer an engaging exploration of Art Deco architecture, cinematic history, and, of course, neon. Tour attendees can capture selfies beneath the stunning neon portico of the United Artists Building—originally constructed by film luminaries like Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks—now home to the Ace Hotel.
At the Freehand Hotel, which boasts the tallest neon sign in the city, Wood recounts the story of how gangsters were pushed out of LA and relocated to Vegas, taking with them the distinctive neon aesthetic.
“Downtown LA’s vintage neon serves as a reminder that this was once Sin City before Vegas took the crown,” he notes. “What was deemed vice in LA in the 1930s and 40s evolved into the entertainment vibe of Vegas in subsequent decades. The resurgence of these lights symbolizes a vibrant section of LA that had long been overlooked.”
Lighting Up the Valley
Beyond Downtown, the San Fernando Valley, located north of the city, is home to the Valley Relics Museum. Here, two airport hangars house an eclectic collection of neon signs, including a lively animated mustang and salvaged signage.
Nearby, Los Angeles neon artist Michael Flechtner operates his workshop, where creativity flows through a suspended neon dolphin and various pieces waiting to be crafted into art. Flechtner demonstrates the intricate process of bending glass tubes into shape, attaching electrodes, and using gases to create vivid neon lighting. This delicate balance between science and artistry underscores the significance of neon as a unique art form.
Museum of Neon Art and the Neon Cruise
The essence of neon art is further highlighted at the Museum of Neon Art, located in Glendale. The museum showcases contemporary works interspersed with vintage signage, including the iconic 37-foot dragon that once graced Grauman’s Chinese Theater. This treasure was rediscovered, emphasizing the significance of neon in Los Angeles’ artistic heritage.
On Saturday nights, the museum hosts a popular Neon Cruise led by author and preservation consultant Eric Lynxwiler aboard a double-decker bus. As the bus navigates through the illuminated streets of LA, Lynxwiler shares captivating stories, intriguing history, and insightful commentary, enhancing the experience with a blend of humor and knowledge.
The ride is not just entertaining; it is an informative journey through the city’s neon-rich landscapes, from Chinatown’s neon pagodas to the legendary glow of Clifton’s Cafeteria. As the evening unfolds, the neon lights come to life, casting an enchanting atmosphere over Hollywood.
Los Angeles Neon: Light Come Alive
Today, the fascination surrounding neon in Los Angeles is palpable. Eric, deeply entranced by these glowing artworks, describes neon as a “fire inside a tube.” This primal element of light evokes a connection to the city’s artisanal past—every curve and character crafted by hand. When these lights shine against the backdrop of a sunset and swaying palm trees, they evoke an irresistible charm.
For those intrigued by the art of neon, various workshops provide opportunities to learn the craft and appreciate this unique form of artistic expression.
Discover the neon lights of Los Angeles and immerse yourself in this creative wonderland.
