Essential Guide to Hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park
In this series, we take you step by step through how to plan some of the most complicated travel adventures, making it easy for you to recreate them yourself. Here, we explore how to plan your hike on Chile’s famous W Trek.
Tracing the foothills of the snow-capped Paine Massif in southern Chile, the W Trek is one of the world’s most epic multi-day hikes. Named for the shape sketched by the 80km (50-mile) trail, the W Trek immerses you in Patagonia’s mesmerizing scenery, featuring turquoise lakes, glaciers, subpolar forests, and abundant wildlife, including the possibility of spotting a puma.
Although the trail is well-trodden, planning the expedition can be complicated by the various access points and multiple reservations needed before setting out. Having recently hiked the trail in two different ways, I’ve compiled the essential tips you need for one of the most memorable hikes of your life. Here’s what I learned.
Step 1: Time it Right
Find the best mix of good weather and accommodation availability.
Hiking the W Trek depends on the availability of the operational refugios (hostels offering limited dorm beds, restaurants, hot showers, and campsites) along the route, which can book months in advance during the peak season from November to February. This season offers the warmest weather and long daylight hours; however, it can also be quite windy. If you prefer fewer crowds, consider the shoulder seasons (March to April and September to October), which often provide better camping availability and more favorable weather conditions. For hikes during the winter months (May to August), a guide is required as refugios are closed, but wildlife can be spotted year-round.
Step 2: Decide Hiking Direction
You can start or finish your trek with breathtaking views.
The W Trek can be hiked either from east to west or vice versa, independently or with a guide, over as many days as you prefer, depending on refugio availability. Hikers with a good fitness level will find it an achievable independent hike over four days. An additional day can be included for glacier kayaking or ice-trekking excursions that depart from Refugio Grey.
Hiking from east to west offers frequent daily bus services from Puerto Natales to the trailhead, and you can conquer the challenging hike to Mirador las Torres on your first day. This option also allows you to bypass the need to secure an early spot on the first ferry of the day across Lago Pehoé. Conversely, hiking from west to east allows for a scenic final night at Refugio Chileno, making it easier to catch the sunrise at Mirador Las Torres on your last day.
Step 3: Consider Booking Options
Reserve your accommodation, transit, and park pass ahead of time to simplify your life.
The two refugios at the western end (Paine Grande and Grey) are managed by Vertice Patagonia, which also runs glacier trekking and kayaking tours. The remaining refugios (Francés, Cuernos, Chileno, and Central) are operated by Las Torres Patagonia. Reservations for preferred campsites, dorm beds, and meals can be made directly through their websites. Booking a multi-day national park pass via the CONAF website ($35) is also essential, as it will be checked upon entrance to the park.
Step 4: Prepare for Adventure
Choose the right gear for your journey.
The entire trail is located between 100-900m (330-2600ft) above sea level, with no altitude considerations. However, the unpredictable Patagonian weather and uneven trail conditions will test hikers. Essential gear includes layers, a waterproof jacket, rain pants, and a pack cover. Expect minimal cellular reception along the trail and consider packing spare batteries for devices as power points are limited at refugios.
Step 5: Conquer the Trail
Be adaptable to conditions to optimize your hiking experience.
Given the length of days on a four-day trek, it is advisable to set out early in the morning. If meals are included with your stay, be sure to book the first seating at each refugio to ensure an early night and start for the following day.
If weather conditions are unfavorable, you might want to reassess plans for hikes like Mirador las Torres during sunrise. Additionally, enjoy the alternative trail along Lago Skottsberg, which adds about 30 minutes to your trip but offers a more scenic route.
Reflection on My W Trek Experience
If I could do it all again, I would opt for the extended version called the O Circuit, ideally in late September, when weather conditions are generally better and crowds are thinner. I’d focus on independent bookings for cost-efficiency, while still ensuring accommodations are secured for meals, as certain comforts may not be available at all refugios on the O Circuit.
