One of the World’s Largest Mangrove Jungles

Erin Medlicott

You can be forgiven if you didn’t know about Pichavaram mangrove forest, despite it being one of the world’s largest mangrove jungles (along with the Sundarbans National Park in West Bengal and Bhitarkanika in Odisha). After all, it’s not on the tourist trail. However, this remarkable and fascinating place is definitely worth visiting.

Significance of Pichavaram Mangrove Forest

The mangrove forest at Pichavaram spans over 1,100 hectares and connects to the Bay of Bengal, separated by a lengthy sand bank. Moreover, the forest boasts over 50 islands of various sizes and 4,400 big and small canals. Astonishingly, these small canals act as sun-flecked tunnels where roots and branches intertwine, creating an enchanting atmosphere. Except for the sounds of paddles, the chirping of birds, and the distant roar of the sea, the environment feels serene.

This unique ecosystem attracts students and scientists from across India who come to study its incredible biodiversity. Approximately 200 species of birds have been recorded, alongside numerous varieties of seaweed, fish, prawns, crabs, oysters, turtles, and otters. Additionally, around 20 different tree varieties can be found in the mangrove forest.

The trees thrive in waters varying from three to ten feet deep. The conditions are quite challenging, as tidal saltwater influxes twice daily alter the salinity levels. Consequently, these trees have developed unique root systems, possessing membranes that selectively allow freshwater to enter. They also possess breathing roots that grow above water, equipped with pores to absorb oxygen.

Regrettably, the mangrove forest suffered damage from the devastating 2004 cyclone that affected Tamil Nadu. Nevertheless, if it weren’t for the forest serving as a natural buffer, the destruction inland would have been catastrophic. The tsunami’s impact on the region necessitated protective measures. In the past, villagers used to cut tree roots for firewood, a practice that has since been banned.

The unique backdrop of the mangrove jungle has been showcased in numerous South Indian films, including Idayakanni (1975), Sooryan (2007), Dasavatharam (2008), and Thupparivalan (2017).

Additionally, it once served as a hub for smugglers, owing to its intricate maze of waterways.

History and Mythology

Pichavaram mangrove forest was originally referred to as Thillai Vana, contributing significantly to the region’s heritage. According to legend, Lord Shiva entered the forest, where a group of rishis (sages) resided and practiced magical arts, disguised as a handsome but simple merchant. Accompanying him was Lord Vishnu, assuming the enchanting form of Mohini. The rishis were infuriated when their women were enchanted by Lord Shiva, invoking snakes, tigers, and demons to destroy him, which, of course, was futile. Ultimately, Lord Shiva revealed his true identity and performed the Ananda Tandava (the blissful cosmic dance) as Nataraja. This revelation led the rishis to understand that a god could not be subdued by magic rituals, as they had believed.

How to Get There

Pichavaram is located about a 30-minute drive from the temple town of Chidambaram in Tamil Nadu. The picturesque route takes you past lush paddy fields, charming villages adorned with colorfully painted houses, traditional huts with thatched roofs, and women selling fish by the roadside. A taxi costs approximately 800 rupees for a round trip and is the most convenient option. Alternatively, local buses operate hourly between Chidambaram and Pichavaram, with tickets priced around 10 rupees.

Chidambaram can be accessed easily by train in under four hours from Chennai. Train schedules can be found here. The nearest airports are located in Tiruchirapalli (three hours southeast of Chidambaram) and Pondicherry (two hours north of Chidambaram), making Pichavaram a convenient day trip from Pondicherry.

How to See It

The mangrove forest can be explored by either rowboat or motorboat. Motorboats are more suitable for larger groups, allowing you to navigate through the mangroves all the way to the beach within a few hours. However, these boats are too large to maneuver through the narrow canals. If you’re eager to delve deeper into the jungle, a rowboat is the way to go, and it’s an experience worth having.

Boat services typically operate daily from around 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. It tends to get quite hot in the middle of the day; therefore, it’s advisable to plan your visit early in the morning or later in the afternoon. While boating regulations are somewhat lax, official activities are managed by the Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation and the Tamil Nadu Forest Department. Nonetheless, local non-government operators are also available. Various packages are offered, with costs influenced by boat type, group size, distance, and attractions included. Expect to pay around 1,700 rupees per hour for a motorboat and 300 rupees or more for a rowboat to venture into the mangrove jungle.

Keep in mind that boat operators often request additional fees for trips through small canals and to specific filming locations. Consequently, negotiation is essential to agree on a price based on your interests.

It’s wise to bring food along, as dining options in the area are limited. Additionally, packing sun protection and a cap is advisable if you’ll be outdoors during the day.

When to Go

The ideal time to visit is from November to February, especially for bird watching. To enjoy a more tranquil experience, avoid weekends and public holidays when it tends to get busy. It’s also best to steer clear of the sweltering summer months, specifically April and May, as the high humidity can be quite uncomfortable.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options in the area are limited. The Pichavaram Adventure Resort, located within the Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation’s Arignar Anna Tourist Complex, is your best option. It features a dormitory alongside private rooms and cottages. However, amenities are basic, and for better budget stays, consider options in Chidambaram. Recommended places include Vandayar Hotel and Nataraja Residency.

What Else to Do Nearby

Chidambaram is well-known for its Shiva temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his Nataraja form. It ranks among the top temples in South India and is distinguished by its Vedic rituals established by the sage Patanjali. This differs from other Shiva temples in Tamil Nadu, which follow agamic rituals based on Sanskrit scriptures. The temple priests, known as Podu Dikshitars, are believed to have been brought from the abode of Lord Shiva by Patanjali himself! A highlight of your visit is the daily yagna (fire sacrifice) performed as part of the morning puja (worship) in the temple’s Kanaka Sabha (Golden Hall).