Edward Abbey famously called it “an oasis of ugliness in the midst of a beautiful wasteland,” and, at first blush, Phoenix, Arizona does seem like a city defined by such sharp contrasts. A hard, bright light falls on the concrete grid which presses up against the undulating waves of the Salt River and Superstition Mountains. It’s a city whose ancient irrigation networks, built by the Hohokam people, were later used to grow a lush network of post-war golf courses and subdivisions sprawling across the Valley of the Sun. But there’s more here than meets the eye.
Spend a little time in Phoenix and you’ll soon start to see the city cast not in black and white but in appealing shades of soft desert pastels – a shimmering mirage that’s not so easy to pin down. All it takes is a couple of days – and the right itinerary – to get properly introduced to the Sonoran city that’s perpetually reinventing itself. Here’s how to spend the perfect weekend in Phoenix.
Day 1
You’ll definitely want to rent a car at the Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport. Phoenix grew up in the age of the automobile and, like Los Angeles, often feels less like a cohesive city and more like a collection of neighborhoods, each with its own flavor—from mid-century cool to classic college town. Start your stay downtown to orient yourself with some must-see sites. If you haven’t eaten yet, consider swinging by Matt’s Big Breakfast for a hearty meal—it’s a Phoenix institution.
Phoenix, Arizona Art Museums
The best place to begin is The Heard Museum, a prime introduction to Phoenix’s original inhabitants—the Native American tribes who first called the Salt River Valley home. The Heard collection features Indigenous art and artifacts, from ancient baskets and jewelry to modern beadwork and haute couture. One of the most powerful exhibits is an installation on the boarding schools Native children were forced to attend as part of assimilationist government policy up until the 1970s. Work your way south to The Phoenix Art Museum, which showcases a wide range of artists from Southwestern greats to international favorites. It also includes exciting and momentous exhibitions, such as Yayoi Kusama’s infinity mirror room.
The Roosevelt Arts District
Stop for lunch at Trapp Haus BBQ on East Roosevelt Street, where you can spend the afternoon strolling and checking out the hip galleries, shops, and murals in Phoenix’s buzzy arts district. On the first Friday of every month from 6 to 10 pm, the neighborhood’s galleries and venues host a self-guided art walk. However, there’s plenty to see any day of the week.
Be sure to check out Monorchid, a coffee shop cum gallery and lounge where you can also shop for local clothing and home goods. If you get thirsty—Phoenix has over 300 days of sunshine after all—grab a beer at Greenwood, a female-owned brewery on East Roosevelt that captures Phoenix’s chill retro style.
Dining Out
If you want some downtime before dinner, head back to your hotel if you’re staying nearby and take advantage of the pool after a day on your feet. For dinner, there are endless good options, from low-key, high-flavor Chihuahuan fare at the award-winning Tacos Chiwas to immaculate Native American fine dining at Kai on the Gila River Indian Reservation just twenty minutes south of downtown.
Day 2
Vintage Vibes and Desert Scenery
Start your day with an early brunch at Windsor Restaurant & Bar, a retro-cool spot adorned with earth-tone plaid and giant succulents on the patio. Those who aren’t driving might enjoy a refreshing drink to kick off the day. Afterward, stretch your legs with a quick walk through the neighborhood Windsor is named for—it’s just a few blocks, but you’ll absorb the pastel charms of mid-century Phoenix.
Now that you’re warmed up, drive east to Camelback Mountain, one of the most iconic natural features on the Phoenix skyline. It’s an official city park and boasts impressive views of the Salt River Valley from the summit, which you can reach in about 2–3 hours via challenging trails. If hiking isn’t your strong suit, there’s the option of a morning hot air balloon ride to experience stunning views over the Sonoran Desert.
Catch your breath and a jolt of caffeine while crate digging at Mojave Coffee and Records, a local favorite with a ’70s vibe. When you’re ready to move on, drive to the Desert Botanical Garden, which is less than 15 minutes away. Its delightful array of regional blooms and quirky cacti offers a fast and intriguing introduction to the unique Sonoran ecosystem.
Meet Tempe, Arizona
If you need another indoor break after the Botanical Garden, make your way south to Tempe. Explore the student scene around Arizona State University and browse the stacks at Changing Hands Bookstore, a notable part of Phoenix’s literary scene since 1974. If time allows, check out the Arizona Museum of Natural History, which features exhibits on everything from dinosaurs to the Hohokam people and is especially great for families.
If you’re not too worn out, stay in Tempe for dinner. Ghost Ranch has earned a lively reputation with regional favorites on the menu. Enjoy a Prickly Pear Frose ‘Rita for a refreshing shot of local flavor.
See Scottsdale, Arizona
Alternatively, set your course north from the Botanical Garden to Scottsdale, where you can visit one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpieces, Taliesin West. This site was where Wright himself lived and worked in the 1940s and is now an official National Monument. Its warm hues and mid-century forms influence spaces across Phoenix. If there’s still time, consider a tour of Scottsdale’s charming Old Town, where you can learn more about this historic area that dates back to the mid-1880s when settlers started planting citrus groves.
Nightlife in Phoenix, Arizona
After a big day, it’s definitely worth checking out the nightlife in Phoenix. Downtown, catch a concert at Crescent Ballroom, where artists like Tennis and Barns Courtney have performed. Nearby, Valley Bar features local entertainment ranging from DJ sets to comedy routines and literary readings.
Head back to Roosevelt Row to visit Cobra Arcade Bar, filled with vintage arcade games, craft beers, and cocktails. Alternatively, immerse yourself in the atmosphere at Undertow, a tiki bar with a menu that resembles a choose-your-own-adventure book.
For those in Tempe, dive bar enthusiasts might enjoy Palo Verde Lounge, which attracts a diverse crowd. For a sophisticated experience, visit The Womack, a classy cocktail lounge with chic decor.
Day 3
Outdoor Adventures Near Phoenix
On your third day, if you’re feeling adventurous, explore the stunning natural surroundings near Phoenix. Immerse yourself in Indigenous history at nearby sites within an hour or two of the city. Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, just an hour away, was an ancient spiritual and trade center. Alternatively, visit Montezuma Castle National Monument, showcasing beautiful cliff dwellings. Within two hours’ drive, check out Tuzigoot National Monument, a village once home to the Sinagua People.
Another accessible gem is Tonto National Monument, where you can experience the vibrant American Western spirit, complemented by the scenic Tonto National Forest, ideal for hiking and camping.
Additionally, travelers can visit Coconino National Forest, known for its stunning vistas, or embark on a road trip to the Grand Canyon, just three-and-a-half hours north of Phoenix. Guided tours to the Grand Canyon from Phoenix offer an excellent way to enjoy this beautiful destination without the hassle of driving.
Where to Stay
There are numerous lodging options in Phoenix to suit your travel style and budget. In downtown, consider the Hilton Garden Inn, a charming art deco classic that retains its historic charm. Alternatively, the Kimpton Hotel Palomar Phoenix offers a trendy atmosphere with a rooftop pool and bar. In the art-filled Roosevelt Row District, The Metcalf House is a boutique hostel showcasing a unique southwestern vibe.
For a luxury experience near Camelback Mountain, consider The Camby, known for its delightful restaurants and bars. Arrive Phoenix is a stylish vintage motel located uptown. If you’re near Tempe, the Graduate Hotel features fun touches reflecting Arizona State’s spirit. For golf and gardens, the Arizona Biltmore Resort is another art deco gem with a spa and 18-hole courses, attracting celebrities and presidents.
What to Pack for Phoenix, Arizona
Phoenix is notably warm and sunny—or even hot—throughout much of the year. Make sure to pack sport sunblock that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, as well as an SPF lip balm and after sun relief gel in case of minor burns or bug bites. Glide anti-chafe balm is also useful for those long days of exploration. A light moisturizer is essential to combat the dry desert climate, as are polarized sunglasses for eye protection.
Packing sun-safe clothing such as light dresses or button-down shirts can keep you comfortable. Ensure that you have comfortable walking shoes suitable for various environments. And don’t forget your travel water bottle to stay hydrated while exploring the Valley of the Sun.
