Travel Experience Summary
- Tribes of Papua: Encounter the unique cultures of Papua, Indonesia during a highlands festival.
- Baliem Valley: Explore the stunning remote valley with minimal tourist presence.
- Local Hut Experience: Engage with local villagers and learn the history and traditions of the area.
- Day of Celebration: Witness an incredible celebration featuring local tribes and traditional practices.
- Culinary Adventure: Experience the preparation and tasting of local delicacies, including traditional pig feasts.
Have you ever had a travel experience, or dreamt of one, that totally blows your mind? Such was the case for me back in 2006 in the highlands of Papua, Indonesia where I was to encounter something I had always dreamed of, in the remote mountains up in the clouds.
Tribes of Papua Indonesia – An Unlikely Guest at a Highlands Festival
It all started with a chance meeting with two travelers on the Island of Sulawesi, in Indonesia. They had just come back from hiking in the jungles of Papua, and their stories had me hooked. I had to go there.
With nothing else really planned, I booked a flight to the city of Jayapura on the Papuan coast, then connected onto an old propeller plane headed to the secluded Baliem Valley in central Papua.
Even before landing, the sense of excitement was palpable. I love adventurous travel and leaving the crowds behind, and where I was going was what I dream of.
As you fly further into the center of Papua, the jungle-covered terrain gives way to a thick blanket of cloud, revealing majestic mountain peaks, and ahead a large valley looms amidst it all. Upon landing, one of the first sights was of a naked man with a penis gourd, and a dead parrot perched on his head, walking along the runway. As the old saying goes; “You’re not in Kansas anymore!”
Baliem Valley
Tourists do make it into the Baliem Valley during the peak months, but they are mostly contained within the valley and are limited in numbers. I was there during the off-season and saw no other tourists in sight, but I still wanted to escape further away, to have a true adventure.
After five days exploring the valley, I organized a local guide to join me, and we headed up into the mountain regions, away from it all.
Getting around up there is tough. We were fortunate enough to hitch a ride on the back of a truck, traveling on a rudimentary road for what seemed like forever, passing remote villages with thatched huts until the road was no more. Now it was time to start hiking between the villages spread out in the highlands, often shrouded in cloud.
Staying in a Local Hut
During my stay in a local hut, my guide heard of a huge gathering set to take place on a hilltop grass runway used by Christian missionaries for small propeller planes. It involved celebrating fifty years of their presence in the region.
Despite not having a strong affinity for missionaries in general, we were both intrigued, so we moved toward the venue, and upon arrival, quickly arranged a place to stay in a local teacher’s hut.
The two days leading up to the celebrations were spent roaming around, meeting villagers, and gaining a deeper understanding of the area and its history.
Local War
The local people used to be engaged in constant warfare with each other. Different tribes attacked one another, and rather gruesomely, they also practiced cannibalism!
Yes, they lived a stone age existence until the discovery of the valley in the 40s facilitated plane landings among the mountains. It was then that missionaries arrived, and to their credit, they helped stop the fighting and introduced some modern ways.
While many locals now wear clothes, some still walk around traditionally undressed with just a penis gourd, supplemented by body decorations. It can get quite cold up there, and they often rub pig fat into their skin for warmth, which may not be too appealing!
With my guide acting as a translator, it was easy to meet and converse with them. They are some of the friendliest people I have encountered in over 17 years of travel around the globe. I was thoroughly enjoying my experience, but the main event was yet to come that would leave me in awe.
Day of Celebration
The day of the celebration arrived. A dozen missionaries had flown in with two Aussie pilots, and I was the only tourist present to witness the event. It was truly a unique experience, meant exclusively for the missionaries, making me feel very fortunate to be there.
As the tribes in the area began descending onto the grassy field, which served as the makeshift runway, some had walked for days to reach the site, arriving in their thousands. They would run down the field, one group at a time, shouting their presence to everyone surrounding.
Pigs are highly prized in this region, and many were prepared for the feast ahead. They were carried tied to wooden poles and, once set down, shot through the heart with a bow and arrow. I couldn’t keep count of the number of pigs, but estimates ranged upwards of a hundred.
Preparing for the Feast
During this time, dozens of large earth ovens were prepared, with rocks heated over massive fires, big pits dug, and leaves brought in by villagers at the ready. The area was thick with smoke from all the fires, and with a low misty cloud descending, it felt almost like something out of a fairy tale.
Once the pigs were expertly butchered, the cooking process commenced. First, some leaves were placed into the pit, followed by hot rocks, and then another layer of leaves.
The meat was then placed in, topped with more leaves, followed by additional rocks, and this layering process continued. Finally, the pit was covered in soil and left to cook the meat for several hours underground. My anticipation for the upcoming meal was high!
While waiting for the food, my guide and I mingled with the crowd, meeting tribal leaders for photos. When the food was eventually ready, I sat down with a group of traditionally dressed villagers—essentially undressed—and awaited the meal.
Getting the Pig Ready
One revelation I had not encountered until this moment was that pig fat was considered a local delicacy. While I enjoy pig fat with my meat back home, over there it was a different story. Eager to try the meat, a sizable portion was placed between the group, but my expectations of smoky flavored prime meat were shattered by large clumps of fat.
The pig fat did not appear appealing, wobbling away attached to charred skin. Nonetheless, trying anything once is essential, so I accepted a piece. It wasn’t as bad as I had anticipated, yet I couldn’t help but wonder where all the good meat had gone. Regardless, I was relishing every moment.
As darkness fell, the villagers began to disperse in their thousands, and exhausted, I collapsed onto the floor of my temporary hut, surrounded by various small creatures (perhaps rats?). I drifted into a deep sleep, with images of smoke-filled skies crossing my mind.
The next day, we decided to move on, as normalcy returned to the area, and with my Indonesian visa nearing expiration, it was time to get going. After a long journey, part walking and part hitching a ride on a truck, I returned to the small town next to the airport, bidding farewell and booking a flight for the next day.
Departing was challenging. I had an incredible time there and knew it would be hard to find another experience like this. Although they hold these earth oven cook-offs for small tourist groups, I understood they wouldn’t have the same feeling as stumbling upon a secret event deep in the highlands.
As my flight took off, I gazed out the window at the mountains slowly fading away and thought of all the friendly people I had met in this strikingly beautiful place, wondering if I would ever return. I hoped that someday I would, and that others would discover a unique experience for themselves somewhere in the world.
