Gazing into the deep brown eyes of an endangered mountain gorilla is a precious experience: perhaps only 700 or so individuals survive, of which around half roam the dense forests of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. It’s an experience you’ll need to earn, tackling steep, muddy trails in altitudes up to 3000m, possibly for several hours. However, if you snag one of only eight permits available for each of the park’s nine habituated families, the rewards are luminous: an hour in the company of these gentle giants (a silverback male can reach 180 kg) is unforgettable. Moreover, the rest of the country holds its own, too. Nearby Queen Elizabeth National Park is renowned for tree-climbing lions, while you can track chimpanzees in Kibale National Park; beyond the far tip of Lake Albert, the Nile thunders over Murchison Falls, and there’s fine trekking in the Rwenzori Mountains.