How to Plan the Perfect Trip to Point Reyes, California

I’m a California kid, but I’m fairly sure I had never heard of Point Reyes until the pandemic made all of us want to escape to beautifully less-populous places. On my mental list of California corners to visit were the painted dunes of Death Valley, the redwood-lined trails of Mendocino County, and a place that promised wildflower hikes, animal sightings, and incredible local cheese.

When my college roommates and I decided to reboot our annual girls’ trip this spring, we made our way toward cheese. Point Reyes, located less than 50 miles north of San Francisco, is a scenic cape surrounded by the oyster-famous Tomales Bay and the Pacific Ocean. It features picturesque landscapes, cross-hatched by grassy trails, dotted with dairy farms, and often dreamily layered in fog. Notably, Point Reyes is a national seashore, representing a protected ecosystem akin to national parks. This proximity to excellent farms results in top-notch produce available at local markets and restaurants. Here’s how to spend an active (and delicious) weekend in the area.

Hiking Trails in Point Reyes, California

Our ambitious cheese plans were matched only by our eagerness to explore the coastal wilds. From the town of Point Reyes Station, expect to drive up to 40 minutes to reach various trailhead parking lots. Our first choice was the Tomales Point Trail, a popular hike known for its breathtaking ocean vistas and splendid wildflower viewing. The hike can range from an hour to five depending on your pace; it’s an out-and-back trail that stretches nearly 10 miles to the tip of Tomales Point with misty waves crashing below.

Our group hiked for about 90 minutes but didn’t cover much ground, captivated by wild yellow lupine and California quail darting into the brush. Although the elusive tule elk, a protected species native to California, escaped our notice, our drive to the next adventure rewarded us with a sighting of a coyote pouncing on its prey.

The historic Point Reyes Lighthouse is another popular attraction. Built in 1870, it is accessible via a short walk from a nearby parking lot. Once you reach the headland, which is renowned for whale watching, you can take a staircase down to the actual lighthouse. Afterward, a quick 10-minute drive will take you to Chimney Rock Trailhead, where stunning views of Drake’s Bay, San Francisco, and resident elephant seals lounging on the sand await. Be sure to visit the Cypress Tree Tunnel, especially during golden-hour light, for a magical photo opportunity while avoiding the crowds.

Dramatic weather often adds to the experience. On our way back to our hotel, we finally spotted the tule elk. Dark storm clouds swirled above us, creating moody gray-blue skies. From our car, we admired the group of males on a hill, their antlers reaching towards the clouds.

Where to Eat in Point Reyes

Point Reyes Station, while not large, boasts more shops and eateries than one might explore in a single weekend. Be mindful of local business hours; for instance, on a Friday evening, the saloon remained the only venue open past 7 p.m., which is perfect if you desire to exchange tales with locals over a drink.

We enjoyed wood-fired pizza and oysters on the garden patio at Cafe Reyes, serving as a fantastic welcome meal on our first evening. Brunch at Side Street Kitchen featured indulgent hot apple fritters and a view of the local agricultural parade. For a quick breakfast, we stopped by Bovine Bakery for lattes, savory scones, and their hearty morning buns. For all the cheese your heart desires, visit the spacious Cowgirl Creamery shop in town.

Our top culinary adventure, however, was at the Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, a woman-owned dairy farm perched on a hill overlooking Tomales Bay. The creamery features a beautiful garden patio for dining. We indulged in the Cheese Lovers experience, which showcased the farm’s signature Toma cheese along with delightful variations like Tomarashi made with nori, toasted sesame, and poppy; along with Tomaprovence, sprinkled with fragrant herbs like marjoram and thyme; and the earthy, buttery Tomatruffle cheese. We lingered, enjoying cheese, wine, and the farm’s charming atmosphere.

From there, we ventured to some nearby oyster establishments, though I recognize my timing for this food itinerary might not have been ideal. Driving along the east side of the bay, we found several spots selling fresh oysters harvested right offshore. The Tomales Bay Oyster Company, established in 1909, sells oysters to go, and you must take them away to shuck at your convenience. The Marshall Store also draws a crowd, while the location of Hog Island Oyster Company here, featured on Jon Favreau and Roy Choi’s “The Chef Show” on Netflix, attracts oyster enthusiasts from afar.

Hog Island was our favorite stop! With its tiered bayside dining deck, we opened a bottle of wine and indulged in people-watching under the sun, which graciously emerged from behind the clouds. Our culinary delight was topped with a dozen raw oysters and subsequently, outstanding grilled oysters smothered in chipotle bourbon butter.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options in Point Reyes are simple and align with the park’s overall vibe. You will find various Airbnb and Vrbo rentals, plus a hostel located within the park boundaries. However, Olema House, featuring a charming wisteria-clad deck, an on-site market, and coffee shop, is an excellent base for adventures around Point Reyes National Seashore.

My roommates and I chose Olema House’s two-bedroom Market Flat. The cozy living room, where we enjoyed a movie night in matching robes while savoring Bovine Bakery pastries, was fantastic. However, it was the grounds of Olema House that truly captivated us. Most rooms here don’t come with a TV, branded by staff who encourage guests to explore the beautiful surroundings.

The back of the property features grassy knolls with lounge chairs, a delightful fire pit, and immaculate event lawns for small gatherings. Additionally, there are two cottages for rent. Inside the main building, the offerings include various rooms and suites, alongside a game room and a fireplace room for those chilly evenings.

On our final night in Point Reyes, we dined at Olema House’s restaurant, Due West. It was the first occasion over the weekend we encountered a bustling indoor crowd, possibly driven in by the rainfall—yet this atmosphere uplifted our spirits. We ordered cocktails along with four bowls of cioppino. The warm meal encapsulated the experience of our weekend, providing the perfect closure after the past couple of challenging years.