You’ve explored the shops, galleries, and glass-towered streets of downtown Vancouver. However, where should you head next on your visit to British Columbia’s biggest city? Side trips to Whistler, Victoria, or even Bowen Island are always enticing options, but if you’re looking for the easiest excursion from the metropolis, look northward across Burrard Inlet – then hop on the SeaBus.
Getting to North Vancouver
A 12-minute transit ferry away, a visit to North Vancouver – a city in its own right – starts with this scenic ocean crossing. The initial harbor hop is a considerable part of the excursion’s appeal. From downtown Vancouver’s historic Waterfront Station, SeaBus vessels, which first launched in 1977, gracefully shuttle across the inlet, weaving past enormous harbor cranes, lively floatplanes, and occasionally, curious seals surfacing to observe the boats. As Vancouver’s bustling shoreline fades from view, the revolving neon ‘Q’ of Lonsdale Quay appears ahead.
On the other side, buses depart for Grouse Mountain and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. Alternatively, you can simply explore the Lower Lonsdale area, a highly walkable district filled with options at the shoreline end of the steep Lonsdale Avenue.
The Market
Disembark at North Vancouver’s bustling dock – be on the lookout for cormorants sunning on the terminal’s roof – then veer right. You’ll quickly arrive at Lonsdale Quay Public Market. Before entering this red-trimmed landmark, take your camera to the shoreline railings outside. The boardwalk offers stunning panoramic views of Vancouver’s shimmering skyline across the water.
Snap some great shots, then head inside. After Vancouver’s Granville Island Public Market, this is the region’s favorite covered, stall-lined shopping spot. Popular vendors offer everything from locally-made candies to British Columbia wines, fresh-catch fish, and in-season Okanagan Valley fruit. In summer, look out for peaches, nectarines, and blueberries.
The food stands are another significant draw. There’s an array of options, including poke, pizza, and fish and chips. Local favorite Sharky’s offers perhaps the best deal: a heaping platter of fresh-cooked steak, sausage, or pulled pork alongside two sides for $9.95 CAD ($7.60 USD). Finish off with a four-glass flight of beers from the market’s Green Leaf Brewing and you’ll be ready for some on-foot exploration.
The Gallery
Opened in 1986, the market was the first major attempt at revitalizing Lower Lonsdale, a district long known for its gritty shipyard operations. The transformation has accelerated in recent years, with new hotels, stores, and restaurants springing up. The largest development? The 2017 opening of the Polygon Gallery.
A few steps from the market, this striking art space – featuring a steel-clad exterior and jagged sawtooth roof – replaced North Vancouver’s old Presentation House Gallery, maintaining the former’s contemporary photography focus while increasing its exhibit space five-fold. With thought-provoking works by local and international artists, its gift shop is also filled with unique design-focused knickknacks and tempting photography gear.
The History
While the popular gallery has been a game changer, the nearby opening of the modern North Vancouver Museum in 2020 will solidify the area’s reputation as a cultural hub. However, extensive development doesn’t mean Lower Lonsdale’s past has been entirely erased. Reminders of the region’s rich working history have also been preserved – as long as you know where to look.
From the Polygon, a scenic promenade leads into the historic Wallace Shipyards site. Now the plaza-like center of a newly named Shipyards District, it’s dominated by a massive industrial crane recalling the area’s industrious past. Alongside, photo plaques detail the city’s boat-building golden age. Furthermore, if you’re eager to head out to sea yourself, there’s also a 700-ft-long pier to explore.
Some of the yard’s old sheds have been restored and transformed into bustling restaurants and meeting spots. Prominent among them is the Pipe Shop, the centerpiece of the summer-long Shipyards Night Market, which features food trucks and live music. Its entranceway is adorned with a giant photomural of workers from the past.
Uphill Amble
Nowadays, North Vancouver locals are more likely to be lounging around boutiques and eateries than wearing coveralls and welding goggles. Rising steeply from the waterfront foot of Lonsdale Avenue, several blocks of visit-worthy restaurants and shops await your discovery.
Tucked into restored heritage buildings, don’t miss Mo’s General Store, a trendy variety shop where you can find everything from colorful “Unicorn Poo” soap to handmade candies from Vancouver’s Wishing Treats. If you’re craving more than sweets, be sure to check out comfort food kings Burgoo Bistro; the quirky sandwich shop Meat at O’Neill’s; and the beloved family-run Artisan Bake Shoppe. Keep your eyes peeled for tiny concrete cows on the sidewalks, paying homage to the area’s early pioneer days.
The Future?
If you want to see how far Lower Lonsdale has come, turn left along West First Street. The first block has recently been designated a smoke-free zone. While it’s only a voluntary prohibition, it signifies a positive shift that might perplex many of those former shipyard workers. During your visit, don’t miss the brightly painted Fun Alley, a colorful enclave that feels like a walk-through kaleidoscope.
Several of North Vancouver’s trendiest new businesses can also be found on First. Hidden within a clapboard heritage building, Lift Breakfast Bakery serves coffee, pastries, and more (don’t miss the eggs benedict!). Additionally, Green Moustache Cafe provides hearty vegetarian dishes. However, not everything on this street is new: Buddha-Full has been attracting vegan juice lovers since 2010 – demonstrating that Lower Lonsdale’s ‘rapid transformation’ has actually been evolving quietly for years.
