From lava-spewing volcanoes to idyllic, far-away beaches, Nicaragua’s natural landscape measures up to some of the world’s best. However, a series of clashes between anti-government protestors and supporters of President Daniel Ortega have resulted in significant turmoil, causing the death of 325 Nicaraguans in the spring of 2018 and creating an air of uncertainty over the entire country.
The Ethical Dilemma of Traveling to Nicaragua
The Nicaraguan government has faced accusations of utilizing tourism as a public relations tool to project a stable image of the country. While conditions may appear ‘normal’ on the surface, the reality for many Nicaraguans is vastly different. Visiting tourists can inadvertently create a misleading picture of normalcy; conversely, the absence of visitors heavily impacts an already struggling economy and the livelihoods of thousands of families who depend on tourism.
Even the most adventurous travelers hold reservations. Though the embers of violence have cooled and life is gradually returning to a semblance of normalcy, it is crucial to exercise caution. Below are some areas in Nicaragua ready to welcome travelers.
Managua
Nicaragua’s often-misunderstood capital, Managua, is more prone to political demonstrations, with a constant police presence serving as a reminder of the political climate.
Typically, many travelers use Managua as a hub to access other destinations in the country. However, if you choose to stay in the city for a few days, it’s essential to be vigilant and avoid protests.
Navigating this chaotic city, which lacks street names, can be challenging. Yet, you will eventually find yourself exploring third-wave coffee shops, food-truck parks, authentic local cuisine, specialty stores, and vibrant local markets. As the sun sets, the city comes alive with Nicaraguan music concerts, Latin dance parties, underground electronic events, craft beer bars, and exquisite dining options.
León and Las Peñitas
León is a vibrant city teeming with inspiring architecture and artsy vintage murals.
As the heart of Nicaragua, this student town is located an hour and a half from the capital and was once home to the nation’s greatest poet, Rubén Darío.
León was a hotspot during the protests, and demonstrations can occur anywhere around the city. If a protest occurs, it is best to not get involved and vacate the area promptly.
While in León, access the rooftop of the Cathedral Basílica de la Asunción (the largest in Central America) for unique views of the city and the surrounding volcanic chain of Maribios. Also, consider visiting Fundación Ortiz Gurdían, home to one of the finest contemporary art museums in Central America. For an adrenaline boost, try volcano surfing down the black sands of Cerro Negro.
Just 25 minutes west of León lies Las Peñitas beach, an easy-going surf spot that provides access to mangroves and Isla Juan Venado – a nature reserve celebrated for bird-watching and turtle nesting.
Volcán Masaya
In a country renowned for its volcanoes, Volcán Masaya is particularly noteworthy. This very active natural wonder, once referred to as the ‘mouth of hell’ by Spanish conquistadors, is situated in Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya, the largest national park in the country. For truly mesmerizing views, it is advisable to visit Volcán Masaya at night.
The nearby town of Masaya played a significant role during the protests, resulting in a heavy police presence that caused many businesses to shut down. While the situation has improved, it may be wise to avoid this small town during your travels.
Granada
History permeates through every corner of Nicaragua’s oldest town. Founded in 1524, Granada has weathered invasions by pirates, led by Henry Morgan, and has experienced destruction twice at the hands of William Walker, an American expansionist.
To gain a deeper understanding of Nicaraguan history, it is recommended to visit Convento y Museo San Francisco, regarded as one of the best museums in the region.
Situated at the foot of the green and dormant Volcano Mombacho, the area offers a nature and wildlife reserve featuring clearly designated hiking trails, ziplines, and coffee haciendas. The volcano also presents stunning panoramic views of Granada and Lake Cocibolca.
If you prefer a more tranquil setting, consider staying on one of the 365 islets that constitute the Isletas de Granada, formed by a massive volcanic landslide 20,000 years ago.
There is a significant contrast in the charming town of Granada, which has been adversely affected by civil unrest. The peaceful, colorful town has witnessed the closure of nearly half of its businesses over the past year. Nevertheless, a variety of restaurants and affordably priced ‘crisis’ deals at a range of hotels can still be found as the remaining establishments try to survive.
Corn Islands
This white-sand Caribbean paradise found on the Corn Islands remains remote and largely untouched. The isolation has helped this secluded getaway to avoid the violence and protests that have affected mainland Nicaragua, allowing the beaches to remain pristine and the environment serene. However, this tranquility comes at a cost—visitors can expect limited amenities, including no cars, WiFi, or electricity (at times), particularly on Little Corn. Yet, once you behold the scenery, you won’t mind the inconveniences.
Laguna de Apoyo
Situated approximately 9 miles (15 km) north of Granada, this tranquil crater lake is hailed as one of the cleanest and deepest in the country. Whether you choose to admire the view from the crater’s edge in Catarina or Diriá, or venture down to the water for a swim, you are sure to be impressed.
Pacific Coast Beaches
All the beach towns in Southwestern Nicaragua have remained relatively calm and isolated from the civil unrest. This cluster of mountains, bays, and uncrowded waves caters to every beachgoer’s needs; ranging from world-renowned surf breaks in Popoyo, which hosted the world surfing games in 2015, to affordable luxury beach resorts in Tola.
The international hub, San Juan del Sur, attracts a young, vibrant crowd but also offers high-quality accommodations (consider staying at El Coco Azul) and delicious dining options (try Asados Juanita). Despite troubles, this area has also seen a dip in tourism compared to prior years.
Ometepe
Getting to Ometepe to witness its famous twin volcanic peaks—Concepción and Maderas—has always been a challenging journey, and the area has faced heavy police presence during the peak of protests. Although conditions have improved, the local economy is struggling as tourism has effectively vanished and many locals have reverted to basic agricultural practices to survive.
Northern Highlands
The land of coffee and cigars might not usually be the first choice among travelers, yet anyone seeking mountainous experiences will find this area gratifying.
The civil unrest reached the principal towns of Matagalpa and Estelí, but the situation has significantly settled. Estelí is renowned for producing some of the finest premium cigars globally. Spend an afternoon mastering the art of cigar making.
Matagalpa is located about an hour and a half southeast of Estelí, characterized by its lush green mountains and stunning waterfalls. Appreciate the local coffee farms, experience farm stays, and immerse yourself in the rustic countryside lifestyle.
Essential Travel Tips
The United States has issued a level 3 ‘Reconsider Travel’ advisory for Nicaragua due to civil unrest, limited healthcare availability, and arbitrary law enforcement. Both the UK and Canada have encouraged travelers to exercise a high degree of caution.
Commercial airlines continue their operations to the country.
When in Nicaragua
Nicaragua is presently under international scrutiny due to sanctions, with its economy facing a recession predicted to result in a 7-11% GDP decline for 2019.
While armed robberies have been reported by travelers, fortunately, no tourists have lost their lives, even during the highest tensions of civil unrest.
