Getting Around San José, Costa Rica
To put it politely, getting around San José is always an adventure.
The capital of Costa Rica started as several different towns, which gradually merged together over a landscape of rolling hills. The city has experienced rapid growth in recent decades, along with bold experiments in “urban renewal.” The resulting street patterns can be confusing, claustrophobic, and extremely hard to navigate, especially for first-timers.
Nevertheless, more than 300,000 residents move around this city every day, most of them on foot or by bus. Once you get a feel for the place, the major sights are pretty accessible. Taxis are easy to find and can take you anywhere. Expect some trial and error, but with a little patience, you can get there from here.
Conquer the Crowds on Foot
Despite appearances, San José is relatively walkable. The “city” is usually measured between the neighborhoods of La Sabana and San Pedro, and you could casually stroll these 8km in less than two hours. Everything in the middle is reachable on foot – and in some cases, hoofing from one landmark to another is faster than any other means. The complex layout and endless one-way streets are less stressful when you can just stop and turn around.
Moreover, like many urban centers, San José is packed with hawkers and panhandlers. In crowded areas like Avenida Central, you won’t walk more than a block without some solicitation. Exercise caution and watch the side streets for cross-traffic, as speeding cars often appear from nowhere. Evenings can be particularly foreboding in San José, so it’s wise to walk in pairs or groups as you explore the vibrant local nightlife.
We also recommend wearing sensible shoes. Litter is a significant challenge downtown, as are uneven sidewalks and deep potholes. Therefore, for a long promenade, you’ll be grateful you kept those hiking boots on.
Master the Bus System Like a Local
City buses are cheap, dependable, and easy to ride. Better yet, San José is the epicenter of bus traffic, not only for the Central Valley but for the entire country. You’ll rarely have to pay more than 650 colones (about US$1) to reach anywhere in the city and its environs. The vast majority of urban residents commute by mass transit, so you’re in good company. Bus drivers keep a bundle of cash and a boxful of coins, making it easy to break medium-sized bills.
Most passengers are well-behaved on the bus. However, you might hear a song played a bit too loud from a smartphone, but overall, most rides are blissfully quiet.
The one drawback is the complexity of the system; stops and routes are scattered throughout the city, and it’s often challenging to identify where to board and when the bus will arrive. Virtual maps can be helpful, but it’s smart to double-check with locals.
Get Anywhere in a Red Taxi
The go-to cab service in San José is the taxi rojo (red taxi), and each car is painted fire-engine red. Legions of taxis ride through the streets and park in queues, making them easy to flag down. Most taxi drivers are honest, but when you enter the car, confirm that the meter (maría) is visible and working.
Consequently, these taxis have faced competition from rideshare services, to the chagrin of local drivers. Both options are dependable alternatives to lengthy walks through downtown crowds.
Insider tip: Some cars may appear red, but they’re not official taxis. Other drivers may use their regular cars to offer rides for cash. These are known as piratas (pirates), and while many may be trying to make a quick buck, it’s advisable to avoid using them if possible.
Drive, If You Dare
All across Costa Rica, a rugged 4WD will take you to secret corners you never imagined. However, you might want to think twice about driving in San José. Visitors should avoid driving in the city until absolutely necessary.
Driving in the capital can be confusing, nerve-wracking, and often dangerous. Streets are narrow, and people and pets routinely wander into the road. Moreover, near-invisible speed bumps (affectionately known as muertos, or “dead bodies”) can wreck your axle. In highway gridlock, expect motorcyclists to whiz between idle cars.
On the upside, locals don’t usually drive very fast. Most motorists are assertive but generally not aggressive, even in the worst traffic. There are many places to rent a car downtown, which is convenient for escaping the sprawl. However, if you’re just hopping around local neighborhoods, a taxi is far more pleasant.
Insider tip: Parking takes many forms in San José. The sign to watch for is parqueo (parking lot or garage). If your accommodation doesn’t have dedicated parking, these secure lots are the safest place to stow your vehicle. Street parking can be perplexing, especially in areas like Barrio Escalante, where certain spaces are best reserved with an app.
On many streets, you’ll find a man passively watching the cars. Usually older, he may wear an orange vest. This individual is a guachimán (watchman), and you can typically pay him the equivalent of a dollar to assist with parallel parking and to ensure nobody messes with your vehicle. With rare exceptions, this is a well-established system worth the pocket change.
Ride the Rails with Commuters
The San José train system is one of the city’s best-kept secrets, and few tourists think to ride it. The central hub is Estación Atlántico, a historic little building on the edge of Barrio Escalante.
You can purchase a ticket at the window, and the train will slice through stand-still traffic like a machete through a ripe mango. Most trains only run in the mornings and afternoons, but the lines will take you to distant suburbs like Alajuela, Heredia, Curridabat, and Cartago.
Accessible Travel in San José, Costa Rica
Costa Rica has made significant strides in accessibility in recent years, and San José’s more popular destinations often have ramps for wheelchairs and staff sensitive to disabilities. Newer hotels are equipped with elevators, and taxis can provide convenience for getting around.
However, the capital still has a long way to go: sidewalks are narrow, and curb cuts are often scattered. Accessible restrooms can be hard to come by, and public buses aren’t generally equipped with wheelchair lifts. Ironically, navigating San José can pose more challenges than the national parks, which may offer more universally accessible options.
