Nanjing City Wall: A Historical Urban Hike

Defensive walls are part of China’s historic DNA. For as long as there have been towns and cities in China, there have been walls around them. The Chinese character cheng 城, meaning city, also means city wall – the concept of a large settlement and a wall around it were indivisible.

The Great Wall, mightiest defensive wall of them all, is actually a name bestowed upon it from outside China. A literal translation of the Chinese for Great Wall – chang cheng长城 – would be ‘long city wall.’

Despite China’s history of building battlements, most of its towns and cities dismantled their crumbling old walls over the centuries, as cities grew, traffic picked up, and technology progressed. However, the surviving cheng that wraps around Nanjing, the most important city in Jiangsu province, stands as a glorious exception and represents one of the highlights of exploring this ancient capital.

Visiting the Monumental Wall

The first emperor of the Ming dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang (known as the Hongwu emperor), defeated the Mongols and founded a new era for China in 1368 AD. With Nanjing as his capital, substantial work began in earnest. A magnificent palace was built, and a new, higher city wall constructed. With an outer wall more than 37 miles in length, it was among the longest city walls ever built. Consequently, around 16 miles of it survives today, making it the longest existing masonry wall in China and even in the world.

It’s a testament to the high quality of construction that so much of Nanjing’s wall has endured. An army of approximately 1 million skilled and unskilled workers took 28 years to complete it, laying hundreds of millions of bricks fused together with a highly effective mortar made from lime and glutinous rice. Parts of the wall reach heights of 69 feet (almost five double-decker buses stacked on top of each other), and it is wide enough for two of those buses to pass each other on the battlements.

A Hiking Highlight in China

In modern times, Nanjing’s city wall is not only a historical monument but also a popular spot for locals and tourists alike who enjoy exercise, photography, and serene views contrasting the cityscape of Nanjing. The wall’s undulating battlements evoke the achievements of a distant age, particularly highlighted by the 1,500-foot-tall Zifeng Tower.

Part of the fun of hiking along Nanjing’s city wall is observing bricks carved with Chinese characters. These stenciled inscriptions provide insights into the origin of the bricks, the supervisor in charge, and the individual craftsperson. Interestingly, only the highest quality bricks were accepted, often supplied from kilns hundreds of miles away.

Moreover, Nanjing’s city wall is unique due to its organic flow, following the city’s natural topography and incorporating rivers, lakes, and hills, which served as natural defensive features. Unlike other city walls in China, which were typically arranged in a quadrangle, Nanjing’s wall presents a more engaging walking experience with ever-changing landscapes.

What to See Along Nanjing’s City Wall

Starting from Xuanwu Gate and hiking south, a mile-long stretch of wall provides sensational views. On one side lies the glistening expanse of Xuanwu Lake, bordered by willow trees, and the Purple Mountain beyond, home to the tomb of the first Ming Emperor. On the opposite side, you’ll find modern Nanjing’s skyline.

The most impressive architectural feature of the wall is the formidable Zhonghua Gate. Known as the ‘Gate of China,’ this spectacular fortification resembles a castle and once housed a garrison of 3,000 soldiers.

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Suggested Routes to Hike the Wall

With several access points to the restored sections of Nanjing City Wall, hikers can choose their distance according to their energy level. Starting at Zhonghua Gate in the south, one can walk or cycle northeast to Dongshui Guan. Allow ample time to explore the ruins of the former Ming Imperial Palace along the way.

For the more adventurous, it’s possible to complete the entire wall perimeter in a day, albeit caution is advised against attempting this during the summer heat when Nanjing is known for its high temperatures. The full wall hike measures approximately 35-40 kilometers, depending on detours, providing a fascinating contrast between the ancient and the modern city at every turn.

Restoration of Nanjing City Wall

As a protected national relic, restoration efforts began in the 1980s, focusing on sections of the wall gradually. In preparation for the Youth Olympics in 2014, significant restoration occurred, revealing the wall’s original splendor. Local residents were involved in locating old bricks used in previous constructions to maintain authenticity during restorations.

Government initiatives in recent years have enhanced restoration plans, including cleaning the moat, planting trees alongside the wall, and improving lighting. Today, travelers can enjoy fully renovated stone walkways, while various sections are connected by urban parks and walking routes.