Nainital: A Spectacular Hill Station Retreat
The hill station of Nainital was a popular summer retreat for the British during their rule in India. Discovered in 1841 by British businessman Peter Barren, it has become a go-to destination for tourists from Delhi looking to escape the summer heat. The town comprises two areas, Tallital and Mallital, situated on either end of the lake and interconnected by The Mall. Mallital represents the older colonial part of the town, while The Mall is bustling with restaurants, shops, hotels, and markets that border the eastern side of Naini Lake.
Location
Nainital is located 310 kilometers (193 miles) northeast of Delhi, in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand (formerly known as Uttaranchal).
How to Get There
The nearest airport is at Pantnagar, about two hours away. Air India operates daily flights from Delhi, with ticket prices around 5,000 rupees one way.
The closest train station is Kathgodam, approximately one hour away. For an overnight option, consider the 15013 Ranikhet Express from Delhi, departing at 10:05 p.m. and arriving at 5:05 a.m. Alternatively, the 12040 Kathgodam Shatabdi Express leaves Delhi at 6 a.m. and reaches Kathgodam by 11:40 a.m.
Nainital is also accessible by road, with buses making frequent runs. The drive from Delhi takes about eight hours.
When to Go
The ideal months to visit Nainital are from March to June and September to November. Rainfall is heavy during the monsoon from July to August, leading to the possibility of landslides. Winters, from November to February, can be very cold, with some snow expected in December and January. For a quieter experience, avoid peak season from May to mid-July and during the Diwali festival in October or November, as tourist traffic and hotel prices soar during these times.
What to Do
Walking around Naini Lake can be accomplished in about an hour. You will find several Hindu temples on the west side, including one devoted to Naina Devi. Boating on the lake offers a quintessential Nainital experience, with options for peddle boats, rowboats, and small yachts for hire.
Families can enjoy the spacious Govind Ballabh Pant Zoo, featuring exotic high-altitude species. The zoo is accessible by taxi or a steep 20-minute walk from The Mall and is closed on Mondays and national holidays. Admission costs 100 rupees for Indian adults, 50 rupees for children, and 200 rupees for foreign adults, 100 rupees for foreign children.
For breathtaking mountain views, take the cable car to Snow View, located at the top end of Mall Road. Round-trip tickets are priced at 230 rupees for adults and 120 rupees for children. Arrive before 9 a.m. to avoid long queues. Nearby, you can hike to various viewpoints, and local guides are available to assist you.
The hike to Dorothy’s Seat, a picnic spot at rocky Tiffin Top, is favored by many. From there, you can continue through the forest to Land’s End. Horse rides are also available just west of town towards Ramnagar.
If you’re looking for adventure, organizations like Snout Adventures offer trekking opportunities, while the Nainital Mountaineering Club provides rock climbing courses and expeditions.
To catch a magnificent sunset, make your way to Hanuman Garhi temple, located south of town.
Architecture enthusiasts will appreciate a tour of Raj Bhawan (Governor’s House), an expansive Victorian Gothic-style structure reminiscent of a Scottish castle. Tours begin at 11 a.m. and run every hour.
The market, Bara Bazaar, is excellent for picking up souvenirs, particularly locally made candles. Noteworthy shops include Mehrotras House of Wax, the oldest candle shop, and The Pahari Store, which offers products handmade in the hills.
Where to Stay
Nainital boasts charming heritage hotels near the lake. Options include the luxurious Naini Retreat, the former summer residence of the Maharaja of Pilibhit, and the Palace Belvedere, once owned by the rajas of Awagarh. Other notable accommodations include Balrampur House, Grand Hotel on The Mall, Pavilion Hotel, and Emily Lodge and Cafe.
If you’re looking for a boutique heritage homestay, consider Abbotsford.
For a luxury experience, Shervani Hilltop is nestled in the hills above town.
Conveniently located lakeside on The Mall, Hotel Alka offers a variety of colonial-style rooms, starting at around 4,500 rupees per night. Other solid choices on The Mall include Hotel ChanniRaja and the Classic Hotel.
If you’re on a budget, Hotel Himalaya provides decent accommodations near the bus stand in Tallital.
Where to Eat
Nainital’s dining scene is primarily located on The Mall. Popular spots include Sakley’s Restaurant and Pastry Shop for global cuisine, Zooby’s Kitchen for North Indian fare, Chandani Chowk for delicious jalebis and Indian snacks, and Pot & Stones Cafe for Continental cuisine and coffee.
Cafe Cicha, located at the Abbotsford Heritage Homestay, offers a charming garden setting and serves scrumptious Continental dishes, along with weekend cooking classes.
For a cozy drink, visit Stella Bar at the Naini Hotel or the Boat House Club, where a temporary membership is necessary.
Side Trips
Nainital serves as an excellent base for exploring adjacent lakes and hill towns. Numerous tour operators on The Mall provide guided excursions, with half-day tours to nearby lakes such as Sat Tal, Bhimtal, and Naukuchiatal being popular choices. Nature enthusiasts will appreciate the forested areas of Kilbury, Vinayak, and Kunjakharak. The Pangot and Kilbury Bird Sanctuary is acclaimed for its diverse bird species.
Moreover, consider a visit to Corbett National Park for an exhilarating side trip from Nainital.
