Top Dishes in Kerala
If you’re used to the standard north Indian dishes that are ubiquitous in Indian restaurants (think butter chicken), you’re sure to get a surprise in Kerala. The coastal state’s distinctive cuisine is tied to its ancient trading heritage and is a fusion of global Christian, Muslim, and Hindu culinary traditions. Coconut, seafood, and spices feature heavily, giving Kerala’s food its unique flavor. There are differences between dishes in north and south Kerala too — those from the northern Malabar region are characterized by richer spices and have Arab, Dutch, and Portuguese influences. Don’t be shocked to find beef on the menu either! It has become an intrinsic part of the state’s identity since Syrian Christian missionaries arrived there with their recipes centuries ago.
Read on to discover the top dishes you need to try in Kerala.
Sadhya on a Banana Leaf
For a quintessential introduction to Kerala cuisine, start with sadhya (Kerala-style set banquet) on a banana leaf. This vegetarian Hindu feast consists of more than 20 items and is an important part of festivals such as Onam. The items are placed on the leaf in a particular order from left to right. Pickles, chutneys, salt, pappadam, and plantain chips are on the left, while curries are on the right. Rice, sambar, rasam, payasam, and curd are also served at different intervals. Sadhya is usually a lunchtime meal and is best eaten with your fingers (really, please don’t use cutlery!). Ideally proceed from left to right for a progression of flavors from mild to pungent and sweet. When you’ve completed the meal, fold the banana leaf in half to indicate you’ve finished. That’s if you can devour everything!
In the capital city of Trivandrum, order the extensive sadhya at Mother’s Veg Plaza. Better yet, get yourself an invitation to a wedding or special occasion at someone’s home.
Erachi Ularthiyathu
The name of this legendary Syrian Christian dish sure isn’t easy to pronounce, but don’t let that stop you from trying it. Known as beef dry fry, this dish is so loved in Kerala that many people refer to it as the state dish! To make it, chunks of beef are very slowly stir-fried or roasted in a heavy pan along with coconut pieces, aromatic ground spices, chilies, and curry leaves. Some tourists prefer Syrian Christian beef curry, as it’s more familiar to them; however, locals are prone to disagree.
Beef fry is popularly consumed with alcohol in local bars and toddy shops. Therefore, you’ll find the most delectable dishes there. Award-winning Mullapanthal toddy shop on MLA Road in Tripunithura, near Kochi, is among the best.
Meen Molee
Don’t like spicy food? This light coconut fish stew, which is a signature dish of central Kerala, is ideal. Trade with Portugal flourished in central Kerala, and the dish is thought to be a variation of a Portuguese one-pot fish stew called caldeirada. Its name, molee, may derive from the Spanish word mole, meaning a cooking sauce or mixture. The stew is made without the tart tamarind (kudam puli) common in other Kerala curries. Subtle flavors come from cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, cloves, peppercorns, and curry leaves.
Meen molee is widely available across Kerala and is a specialty at the famous Fusion Bay restaurant, on KB Jacob Road in Fort Kochi. Gobble it up with appam or rice. Oceanos at the Elphinstone Residence in Kochi is recommended for seafood, including meen molee, as well.
Meen Vevichathu
A hot and fiery Kerala fish curry, meen vevichathu is likely to make you break out into a sweat! This red, tangy, tamarind-based curry is associated with the state’s central Kottayam district. It’s traditionally made without coconut by boiling the fish in a clay pot with selected spices, especially plenty of Kashmiri chili powder. Sardines or mackerel further boost the flavor.
Try meen vevichathu at the atmospheric Fort House Restaurant, located in the garden of the Fort House Hotel in Fort Kochi. It’s served in traditional style with kappa (cassava plant root) as the accompaniment.
Kappa Puzhukku
You may not expect kappa (tapioca/cassava plant root) to be widely consumed in Kerala. The story of how it happened is interesting. Cassava is said to have been introduced by the Portuguese; however, King Visakham Thirunal of Travencore ordered its cultivation during his reign in the 19th century to ward off recurrent famine. Residents were reluctant to embrace it, viewing it as poor man’s food. This perspective changed in the 1940s when a severe famine hit the state. Now, kappa is considered a delicacy. It’s made by boiling and mashing the cassava plant root with grated coconut and spices and is commonly eaten alongside fish curry.
Karimeen Pollichathu
You can’t visit Kerala and not sample the state’s official fish, karimeen (pearl spot). This revered fish, native to the backwaters of the Kuttanad district around Alleppey, is synonymous with karimeen pollichathu. The fish is marinated in a spicy paste, wrapped in a banana leaf, and steamed. Yum!
For authentic karimeen pollichathu, head to the elegant Grand Pavilion restaurant at the Grand Hotel in Kochi, or the family-run Karimpumkala Restaurant in Pallom near Kottayam. Karimpumkala initially began as a toddy shop in 1958 before expanding, with dishes made from recipes belonging to the owner’s mother.
Thalassery Malabar Biryani
Kerala has its own style of biryani. In fact, there are a couple of different ones. Thalassery biriyani, from Thalassery in the Malabar region, is the most celebrated. Traders from the Middle East brought it with them and established themselves as the Muslim Mappila (Moplah) community. Their biryani is heavy on spices and is made from short-grain jeerakasala rice, distinguishing it from the usual long-grain biryani rice.
Paragon Restaurant, founded in 1939 in Calicut (Kozhikode), is the place to stuff yourself full of Malabar biriyani. Paragon’s offshoot, Salkara, is also renowned for biryani. Additionally, the iconic Zain’s hotel on Convent Cross Road near the beach in Calicut is popular. If you’d rather dine somewhere more upscale in Calicut, head to Mezban Restaurant at Hotel Asma Tower.
Nadan Kozhi Curry
Prefer chicken to fish but still want some fire in your mouth? Nadan food certainly packs a punch! This home-style cuisine is among the spiciest in Kerala. It tends to be quite oily too and has many variations. In this dish, the kozhi (chicken) is marinated in chili powder, and both red and green chilies are used to flavor the thick curry sauce. Proceed at your own risk! Nadan kozhi curry pairs well with rice, appam, or Malabar parotta.
Enjoy it pier-side at Seagull Restaurant, located on Calvathy Road overlooking the sea in Fort Kochi. Make sure to reserve ahead if you want a table with a sunset view.
Appam
Appam is likened to a Dutch pancake but made with a batter of fermented rice and coconut milk. This side dish is eaten alongside all kinds of stews and curries. Soft in the middle and crispy on the edges, it’s a staple in Syrian Christian households where it’s served at all times of the day, including breakfast. When eating, break off a small piece of the appam with your right hand and use it to scoop up some of the main dish.
Malabar Parotta
This succulent south Indian bread originates from the Malabar region of Kerala, brought there by the Arabs. Its flaky, layered appearance makes it easily distinguishable from the conventional north Indian paratha. Tear it apart with your fingers and enjoy it with beef for the ultimate satisfaction. For Kerala residents, this combination isn’t just a dish—it’s an emotion. Malabar parotta can be paired with any kind of curry.
Pathiri
Another Malabar specialty, pathiri is essentially a roti or pancake made of rice flour. It belongs to the Mappila Muslim community, who commonly consume it for dinner with a non-vegetarian curry. The pathiri can be cooked on a griddle (ari pathiri), deep-fried (ney pathiri), or stuffed with meat and vegetables (erachi pathiri).
Puttu
Want to have a typical Keralan breakfast? Puttu with kadala (chickpea curry) is one of the most popular meals in the state. Locals even enjoy puttu with fish curry for breakfast, although this might be a bit overwhelming for western palates early in the morning! The puttu is made by steaming ground rice and grated coconut together in cylinders.
In testament to the popularity of puttu, Dhe Puttu in Kochi and Calicut is entirely devoted to the dish. This restaurant chain was established by Keralan actor Dileep and television personality Nadirshah to showcase puttu. About 20 varieties are available there, not just for breakfast. Some of them are incredibly creative and unique, with meat and fruit blended together! Visit at lunchtime for the puttu thali (platter).
Payasam/Pradhaman
The king of desserts in Kerala, payasam is similar to kheer from other parts of India. It consists of rice slowly cooked in milk, coconut, sugar, cashews, and dry fruits. This dessert is always served during festivals. Pradhaman is a thicker, Kerala-style version, which sometimes uses different ingredients such as jackfruit, lentils, chickpeas, or mung beans.
Ela Ada
Don’t pass up the opportunity to savor this sweet Kerala treat, which makes for a delicious snack. Ela means leaf, and the parcels are crafted with ada (rice) flour dough filled with a mix of coconut and jaggery (unrefined cane sugar), then steamed in a banana leaf. The banana leaf imparts a delightful aroma and flavor. Bet you can’t stop at only one piece!
