While not large – everything is walkable – Cyprus’s capital city of Nicosia (Lefkosia) has loads to do. You can explore its centuries of history, from Venetian, Byzantine and Ottoman landmarks to residential districts enjoying a rebirth.
Along the way, stop for a traditional coffee and consider a bath in a centuries-old bathhouse. Moreover, you can take in the city’s newly redesigned main square, a masterpiece of a world-famous architect. Plus, North Nicosia (Lefkoşa) is never far away across the dividing Green Line.
Stroll Nicosia’s Stunning New Square, Plateia Eleftherias
After 16 years, in December 2021 Nicosia unveiled its reimagined central square, Plateia Eleftherias. The architect is the late Zaha Hadid, known for adding sinuous shapes and beguiling curves to major projects worldwide, including Beijing’s new airport and a stadium for the 2022 World Cup in Qatar.
The project faced numerous delays and economic issues from the beginning, and it attracted quite a bit of opposition. However, the completion of the square garnered unanimous approval, with Hadid’s flowing arcs making a dramatic statement below the old walls. Hundreds of native trees provide shade for pedestrian avenues and a series of small gardens.
Follow the Green Line
The 300km (186 mile) Green Line serves as the UN-administered buffer zone, barricading the two parts of Cyprus – Nicosia and North Nicosia – since 1974. It runs centrally through Nicosia, and following its zigzagging route provides a fascinating walking opportunity.
Begin your journey at the eastern side of the Old City at the northern end of Leoforos Athinas, where a metal gate and UN bunker signal the end of the road. Turn left into Antasias Toufexi, lined with terraced cottages, some restored and others with exposed adobe-brick interiors. Continue right onto Axotheas, which ends abruptly with another cement-bunker barricade. Stay close to the wall as you navigate through streets, alleys, and squares in a general southwest direction. Take note of how residents have coped with five decades of division, whether by planting flowers on barricades or protecting windows with sandbags.
On Ledra Street, walk to the crossing checkpoint, and take the first left turn down the Stoa Tarsi arcade. Keep heading west onto Artimidos, encountering another bunker, then zigzag to Pafou, where the Roman Catholic Holy Cross Church resides beside the barricaded-off stub of the street, with the Roccas Bastion right behind it.
See Both Sides of Nicosia from Shacolas Tower Observatory
Shacolas Tower Observatory offers a breathtaking 11th-floor view across Nicosia and the mountain range beyond. Placards in English below the windows highlight specific buildings and neighborhoods while tracing the course of the Green Line as it bisects the city.
Be Dazzled at the Church of Archangelos Michail
The domed Church of Archangelos Michail, dating back to 1695, is believed to have replaced an earlier Gothic church at the same location. Its interior sparkles with hundreds of gold icons, some dating to the 1400s, while its exterior featuring Franco-Byzantine architecture exhibits influences from two different ruling powers: the Lusignans of France and the Venetians.
Get Reverent at Omeriye Mosque
The Omeriye Mosque traces its origins back to the 14th century, referencing its earlier use as the Augustinian Church of St Mary. Its tall minarets date back to 1571 upon the establishment of the current structure. Popular lore claims this was the first venue of worship for Turks following their invasion that year. It remains a functioning mosque, welcoming Nicosia’s diverse Arab and Asian Muslim communities. Non-Muslims may visit outside prayer times if they observe appropriate attire and remove their shoes.
See All That Glitters at the Hidden Agios Ioannis Church
After the Ottomans took over in the 16th century, Christians adopted a lower profile in Nicosia. However, the modestly sized Agios Ioannis Church, dating to the 17th century, showcases an enticing interior filled with elaborate 18th-century frescos, gold-covered carvings, and hanging crystals. This quaint church sits within the courtyard of the Archbishop Makarios III Cultural Foundation.
Smell the Flowers in the Beguiling Chrysaliniotissa Quarter
Hard up against the Green Line, the Chrysaliniotissa Quarter is a gentrified neighborhood on the edge of the Old City. Decades of neglect inadvertently preserved its elegant early-20th-century homes from redevelopment. Today, the area’s charms are widely acknowledged, as renovations have restored the facades to their former glory.
Residents create tiny, lush gardens with few potted plants, and the narrow lanes provide a serene escape from the busier streets of the Old City. Explore the Chrysaliniotissa Crafts Centre, where artisans craft traditional Cypriot items in eight workshops surrounding a central courtyard.
Walk the 16th-Century Venetian Walls
The Venetian walls surrounding the Old City are remarkable with their unique snowflake-like shape. Strolling along these fortifications and their adjoining moats is a highlight of visiting Nicosia.
Dating back to 1567, the walls were erected by the Venetian leadership as defense against Ottoman invaders. Unfortunately, in 1570, the Ottomans overcame the fortifications, resulting in over 50,000 fatalities. Yet the walls have persisted ever since. Of the 11 bastions, five in Nicosia have been carefully restored, while another forms part of the dividing Green Line. The remaining five are in North Nicosia (Lefkoşa), where they continue to deteriorate pending future restoration.
Take a Selfie Under Famagusta Gate
Nicosia’s most photographed feature is Famagusta Gate, located on the city’s east side. Dating back to the 16th century during the Venetian period, it is the best-preserved of the three original gates that once led into the Old City and features a timeless wooden door and a sloping facade that opens into a tunnel leading through the rampart wall. Beyond the tunnel, a small open-air arena hosts summertime concerts.
Get Clean in 16th-Century Hamam Omerye Bathhouse
The ancient Romans inspired the Ottomans, who popularized hammams: traditional bathhouses with a series of rooms that offer hot and cold water along with steam for cleansing. The 16th-century Hamam Omerye has undergone careful restoration to regain its former splendor, and its luxurious facilities are now open to the public. Visitors can indulge in various hot and cold baths, massages, body scrubs, and a range of treatments.
Ponder the Charms of Laïki Yitonia
Appropriately translated to “popular neighborhood,” Laïki Yitonia stands out as the only overtly tourist-friendly area in the Old City. Despite the presence of touts luring you into restaurants with subpar food, its narrow lanes exude vintage charm. It’s a worthwhile quick detour during explorations of the Old City’s southern precincts.
Escape the Heat in the Municipal Swimming Pool
There’s no need to trek to the coast on a hot summer day, nor is there a need to convince the family that a cool museum will suffice. Instead, take a plunge at the well-maintained Municipal Swimming Pool. Situated in the northwest corner of the city, it features lifeguards and is encircled by large shady palms and well-kept public gardens.
Relive the Middle Ages at the Medieval Nicosia Festival
During the five-day Medieval Nicosia Festival in April, the city hosts a range of events that celebrate its medieval heritage. Enjoy free guided tours, concerts, lectures, and special exhibitions, all focused on medieval themes. Highlights include hands-on crafts demonstrations that engage both adults and children.
Savor a Traditional Coffee at Haratsi
The charm of Haratsi, a traditional coffee shop established in the 1930s, lies in its unchanging character. Nestled deep in the Old City near the Green Line, it forgoes New Age music and minimalistic decor. Instead, patrons can adjust their well-worn wooden chairs and, in the morning, consider a traditional breakfast of olives, grilled or fresh halloumi, bread, tomatoes, and, of course, coffee. At any hour, enjoy a Greek coffee served sketo (without sugar) that is notably bitter and robust.
Shop for Exquisite Art at Diachroniki Gallery
Art collectors from around the globe frequent Diachroniki Gallery to peruse an impressive array of artworks. This unmissable gallery showcases the work of top Cypriot artists, as well as artists inspired by the island, featuring exhibitions ranging from paintings and sculpture to antique maps and prints.
Safety recommendations and restrictions during a pandemic can change rapidly. It is advisable for travelers to check with local authorities for up-to-date guidance.
