El Paso is the westernmost city in Texas – closer to four other state capitals than it is to Austin (Phoenix and Santa Fe in the US; and Chihuahua and Sonora in Mexico). It’s home to several legends – Billy the Kid and Wyatt Earp reportedly roamed down El Paso St., with tales of ghosts haunting both cemeteries and hotels. Furthermore, it is known as Sun City, boasting over 300 days of desert sunshine each year.
Nevertheless, the most defining characteristic of El Paso is its status as a border town. Previously part of Spanish- and Mexican-controlled New Mexico, El Paso became part of the United States only after 1848. Known as El Paso del Norte (‘the northern pass’), this area was settled by the Spanish nearly 400 years ago. Since then, the multicultural demographics and realities of border life have profoundly shaped the city and its diverse residents.
Texans, Mexicans, Tejanos, Indigenous Mexicans, and Americans have all called this place home. Today, El Paso, along with its sister city Juarez, continues this communal relationship. Visitors often experience a Tex-Mex paradox that defines both the city and its people. You might wonder, “Am I in Texas or Mexico?” Such cultural distinctions blur in this dynamic area.
The city encapsulates diverse elements: cowboy boots and corn tortillas, border walls juxtaposed with cross-border communities. Notably, El Paso ranks among the nation’s safest cities, almost sharing a downtown with Juarez, one of the world’s most notoriously dangerous cities. Welcome to El Paso.
Small-town Downtown
El Paso has undergone several recent transformations, including the addition of a trolley line, a charming downtown baseball stadium, and a modern convention center, all while preserving its heritage and small-town atmosphere. Exploring the city center on foot is indeed feasible. Start your excursion with a hot drink at District Coffee on Texas Ave, a trendy spot to relax.
Nearby, visitors can explore the historic Plaza Theater and the El Paso Museum of Art. As you explore, keep an eye out for the many murals adorning the city. El Paso is vibrant with street art that highlights a burgeoning and socially conscious cultural scene. Using San Jacinto Plaza as a starting point, walk a block east towards Stanton or a block west to the museum, where you will find impressive murals depicting the everyday realities of life around the border.
The Gardner is the city’s oldest hotel, known for its nostalgic touches. Rooms claimed to be ‘haunted’ add to its charm. Additionally, an old-fashioned telephone booth and an antique operator switchboard decorate the lobby, providing a unique experience for stayers. With simple rooms and dormitory options, the Gardner serves as a budget accommodation choice in the downtown area.
Just around the corner at Franklin Ave and Stanton, a row of LGBT-friendly bars showcases vibrant nightlife where locals gather. In the heart of downtown, banks and corporate offices coexist with the lovely San Jacinto Plaza, known for its outdoor events and community gatherings.
The city’s Triple-A baseball team plays in a posh downtown stadium and is affectionately called the Chihuahuas. El Paso is a burgeoning city on the move, firmly rooted in its historical and cultural foundations.
A Night Out in El Paso
Just a quick drive north of downtown is L&J Cafe, a beloved local spot that serves a mixture of family-friendly fare and local flavors, showcasing the city’s rich Mexican-American heritage. With a wide variety of Mexican dishes and a large central bar, the cafe often buzzes with locals enjoying its lively atmosphere. If there’s a wait, sitting at the bar and sipping on a michelada while munching on house-made chips and salsa is a delightful alternative.
Next, check out Joe Vinny & Bronson’s Bohemian Cafe in the nearby Five Points area. This cafe/restaurant is popular for its great coffee and diverse menu offerings, ideal for daytime laptop work or relaxed evening drinks. You can find everything from local craft beers to cafe bon-bon (a Latin-style espresso with sweet condensed milk) in a hip but welcoming environment.
The Five Points area also presents a variety of nightlife options, such as the Living Room Lounge, featuring classy cocktails, or Love Buzz, known for its eclectic live music in a funky setting.
As a college town with the University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP), El Paso’s nightlife sees an influx of students. For a more budget-friendly experience, check out Cincinnati St. for several cheap beer halls and venues playing Top 40 dance hits. Later Later offers chic late-night partying options as well.
If a low-key night is more preferable, visit The Tap, a classic dive bar serving cold beers and solid Mexican grub, or stop by Deadbeach brewery for locally produced craft brews.
Across the Border
The Rio Grande has always served as a natural dividing line in this region. Originating at the foothills of the Rockies, it flows from Colorado down to the Gulf of Mexico, slicing through the downtown cores of both El Paso and Juarez. Hence, discussing El Paso without mentioning the border would provide an incomplete picture of its culture and identity.
Select your way south from San Jacinto Plaza onto El Paso St., and you’ll notice the atmosphere shift – the vibrant music from nearby shops and fresh fruits sold on street corners. A few more moments of walking, and you’ll find yourself in Mexico.
Crossing into Juarez is surprisingly straightforward, with thousands making the trip daily. Driving can lead to long wait times (it’s often busier going into the US than coming out), while walking over the Rio Grande requires minimal checks – only a $0.50 cent fee.
Once in Juarez, Ave. Benito Juarez carries on from El Paso St. Here, visitors can explore souvenir shops and street food stands, or stop at the famed Kentucky Club & Grill, a historic restaurant and bar established in the 1920s. Further, enjoy the pedestrian promenade Calle 16 de Septiembre, where, on weekend afternoons, you can witness families strolling, couples dancing to live music, and various traditional food stalls.
For newcomers, Juarez may appear intimidating. While caution is advisable and tourist options are limited, the worst times of violence are now behind, and Juarez – an industrial city overcoming years of turmoil – is making strides toward recovery.
Re-entering the United States is relatively effortless. Pay a nominal fee on the Mexican side and walk back over the Rio Grande. Remember to have your passport, as US customs will conduct thorough checks upon re-entry.
Once back in the U.S., visit H&H Car Wash and Coffee Shop. A blend of a small-town gas station, an American diner, and a Mexican mom-and-pop shop, this family-owned establishment has served the community for over 70 years. Renowned owner Maynard Haddad, of Syrian descent, epitomizes the local spirit. Individuals from all walks of life flock here to indulge in breakfast favorites like bacon and eggs alongside carnitas and frijoles.
More often than not, you’ll find Mr. Haddad engaging with locals outside on lawn chairs, discussing neighborhood happenings in a friendly manner, mixing Spanish and English seamlessly.
