With improved airlinks on the way, it should be easier than ever to get to this diverse South American country in 2023. Enhanced access will catapult Montevideo’s laid-back beaches and under-the-radar food and wine scene to the top of travel wish lists.
Lola Méndez takes you on a four-day culinary adventure, eating your way through South America’s hidden foodie destination.
Why You Should Visit Montevideo
Montevideo is a metropolitan city – yet within 30 minutes, you can reach the verdant campo, where Uruguay’s countless cows and sheep graze on sprawling grass farmlands. Nearby are vineyards where you can taste Uruguayan tannat and albariño varieties or enjoy a pitcher of fruit-infused white-wine sangria called clericó. Thanks to Uruguay’s 410 miles of coastline, you can savor freshly caught seafood in the city that juts out into the gigantic, ocean-like Río de la Plata. It’s surprising that Uruguay remains a well-kept secret among foodies.
Cortado at a Café
Most hotels include a breakfast spread with dulce medialunas (sweet small croissants), orange juice, toast, ham, and cheese. Since Montevideo is flat and very walkable, head out for a 90-minute walk between the Ciudad Vieja and Buceo neighborhoods to seek out a good cup of coffee. At Escaramuza Libros, walk through the picturesque bookstore and grab a table in the whimsical outdoor café behind it. Order a cortado – half milk and half coffee – and enjoy the slow pace of the Uruguayan lifestyle as you sip.
Chivito for Lunch
Work up an appetite before you indulge in Uruguay’s national sandwich, the chivito, for lunch. While the name translates to “little goat,” it doesn’t include goat meat. Instead, it comes piled high with beef, bacon, lettuce, tomato, eggs, and cheese, served over a bed of fries. Try it at one of Uruguay’s oldest fast-food chains, La Pasiva. Snag a table by a window to people-watch as you dig in.
If you’re feeling sleepy after lunch, do as the Uruguayans do and head back to your hotel for a leisurely siesta.
Stroll Rambla at Dusk
From your hotel, walk down to the Rambla, Montevideo’s riverfront boardwalk that, at 14 miles, is the longest continuous sidewalk in the world. You’ll pass the skate park, the Montevideo letters sign, the Holocaust Memorial, and the mysterious Pittamiglio Castle. Aim to be around Punta Brava at dusk for breathtaking sunset views over the Río de la Plata.
Believe it or not, 9pm is an early dinnertime in Uruguay. After sunset, order an Uber for the 10-minute drive to local haunt El Rastro Parrillita. Known for excellent cuts of meat at mid-range prices, this restaurant allows you to experience asado, Uruguayan barbecue, and enjoy meat prepared to order on the parilla (grill). Order the grilled provolone cheese and your chosen meat, such as ojo de bife (steak) – then go all out for dessert with the flan doused in dulce de leche.
Time-Travel in Ciudad Vieja
Dig into your hotel breakfast before walking through the Puerta de la Ciudadela and into Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s old town. Skip Café Brasilero (renowned as the oldest café in Uruguay but lacking charm) and instead take your coffee at Cafe La Farmacia, a former apothecary turned cozy café.
Pay Homage to Anthony Bourdain at Jacinto
Take a stroll down Sarandí, Ciudad Vieja’s pedestrian-only main drag, and think of the legendary Anthony Bourdain, who connected with Uruguay’s obsession with meat and loved morcilla blood sausage in particular. Dine where the chef did, at Jacinto, and be sure to order the milanesa, a traditional dish of breaded steak or chicken.
Join in another national pastime, merienda. The mid-afternoon snack usually includes a baked good such as a pionono (a rolled sponge cake layer with dulce de leche) or a ham-and-cheese sándwich de miga paired with coffee. In Ciudad Vieja, one of the best merienda spots is the Federación bakery. Try an alfajor, made with two flaky shortbread cookies stuffed with dulce de leche, then rolled in coconut flakes.
Evening at Mercado del Puerto de Montevideo
Touristy and a bit pricey, the historic Mercado del Puerto de Montevideo, which first opened in 1868, is still worth visiting. Grab an early light dinner at Empanadas Carolina: try the beef with raisins and the ham with corn. Then stroll a few blocks to learn about Uruguayan wine culture and try varietals from some of the country’s most celebrated wineries.
A Modern Day in Montevideo
After breakfast, walk through the verdant urban space of Parque Rodó as you make your way to The Lab Coffee Roasters, located in the park, to savor gourmet coffee alfresco. Next door is the National Museum of Visual Arts, which houses a superb collection of Uruguayan art, including pieces by Pedro Figari. After your cultural outing, treat yourself to a mid-morning donut at the new, women-owned In Her Oven bakery.
Lunch at Mercado Ferrando
Food-hall markets are popular in Montevideo, with stalls offering parrillas, sushi, pizza, pasta, burgers, churros, and more. From Parque Rodó, take a 20-minute walk to Mercado Ferrando and head straight to Il Gufo to try one of Uruguay’s culinary specialties: pizza a caballo. Almost half of all Uruguayans are of Italian heritage, which has significantly influenced Uruguayan cuisine.
Check Out Montevideo’s Burgeoning Vegan Scene
Although Uruguayans consume some of the most meat of any population in the world, there’s a burgeoning vegan scene in Montevideo. Go green for the night with plant-based versions of Uruguayan cuisine like milanesa at La Temeraria. After dinner, walk down Blvd España to taste some of Uruguay’s best local beers at the Montevideo Brewery Company.
Celebrating Immigrants’ Influence on Uruguayan Cuisine
Montevideo has a large population of Armenian immigrants, and several have opened restaurants serving falafel. Since Ararat opens at 11, sleep in and then enjoy a falafel wrap with tabouli and hummus for brunch.
Taste Uruguay’s Wine
Hop in an Uber heading north: in under 30 minutes, you’ll be at the beautiful Bodega Bouza. Indulge in the wine-pairing lunch, which might include a grilled duck magret paired with a glass of Monte Vide Eu 2019, then take a guided tour of the winery and vineyards. Enjoy the afternoon soaking up the serene scenery before heading back to the city for dinner.
Experience ñoquis
If you’re in Uruguay on the 29th, there’s only one dish to have for dinner: ñoquis. Dia de Ñoquis is a monthly tradition honoring the potato-pasta dish imported by Italian immigrants. Continue the tradition with the superb potato dumplings at Morelia.
