Traveling with a small child is a marathon, not a sprint. My husband, our 1-year-old, and I experienced the breathtaking elevation and sights of Machu Picchu and the scenic journey to and from the remote area over the course of three days and two nights. Since this was part of a longer six-month journey through the continent, we tracked and kept meticulous records of every purchase. Here’s what we spent and ways you can save.
Pre-trip Costs
Transportation: USD$152.44 on two adult one-way flights from Lima to Cuzco with Avianca airline and USD $27.52 on a cab ride from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo. We negotiated the cab fare with a dispatcher, but had to pay a few dollars more than planned. Buses are available at a lower cost, but we opted for a cab to accommodate our baby’s sleep schedule.
Train Tickets: $196 for two adult two-way Inca Rail train tickets for the Voyager class, which felt like first class to us, from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, and the 360 class from Machu Picchu back to Cuzco. The difference between classes was minor, so we chose the return train that best suited our schedule.
We booked our train tickets and Machu Picchu entries one month ahead of time. A potential change of plans prompted us to check the Inca Rail website a week before our journey, where we found a promotion. We requested a refund for our original tickets and purchased new ones at a lower price, saving $62.
Machu Picchu General Entry Fees: $92 for two adults. Additional hikes will incur extra costs.
Accommodation: $79.48 for two nights in a deluxe double room with a balcony at Vista Machu Picchu. The location was convenient, being a short walk from the train station, souvenir shops, local restaurants, and the bus to Machu Picchu.
If I return, I’d prefer accommodations further from the train tracks, as the noise was overwhelming.
Total Pre-trip Spending: $547.44
*We did not have to pay for our 1-year-old’s flights, train tickets, or entry fee.
On the Ground
Sunday
Total: $66.60
11am: We board our train headed for Aguas Calientes, a small town located outside the Inca ruins. It’s the nicest form of transportation we’ve taken, including first-class flights. Because we are traveling with a baby, the kind crew upgraded us to seating for four. We enjoy a light lunch and coffee, included in our ticket price, while documenting the lush scenery.
1pm: After arriving, we check into our hotel, settle in, and let our baby have an afternoon nap.
4pm: We’re off to explore the town. For dinner, we have developed a routine for finding the best dining deals even in a tourist spot. We stick to side streets, review listed prices, compare restaurant prices, and negotiate where possible. Since we’re visiting during the slow season, our waiter offers us a 15 percent discount on the tourist menu. Our total bill comes to $15.12 for meals we share among the three of us.
We purchase bus tickets to the entrance of the Machu Picchu ruins at a cost of $48 for two adults. We discover hiking options along the way that can save on this expense.
We also buy whole milk, fruits, and other snacks for our baby at a local market for $3.48.
7pm: Bedtime for baby and adults, as we prepare for an early start the next day.
Monday
Total: $18.90
8:15am: After enjoying a free hotel breakfast, we rush to catch a bus. In a panic, I buy a $1.21 rain poncho since I left my jacket behind. Ironically, I did not need it, but it will come in handy later.
8:45-11am: We explore the ruins, capturing family photos at every opportunity.
Feeling overwhelmed in the crowd, we venture onto the emptier Inca Bridge trail, where the staff require us to log our names and starting time. Although I fear heights, we eventually sign out safely.
2:10pm: After our $6.05 lunch, we encounter hairless dogs, part of Peru’s historical presence.
6:30pm: After our baby’s afternoon nap, we find the lowest advertised dinner menu for $10.58 for two meals. Our little one enjoys crawling around a soccer field as local kids join in.
For our final stop before bed, we spend $1.06 on Inca Kola, a Peruvian soda my husband is excited to try.
Tuesday
Total: $4.83
9:30am: After a free breakfast and visiting the soccer field to see more local hairless dogs, we buy snacks for the day ($1.21 for avocados) and souvenirs, spending $3.62 on a 10-pack of llama magnets.
10:30am-2:30pm: We head back to Cuzco, first by train to Ollantaytambo, then to a private passenger van to complete our journey. We changed our return train to get back earlier, realizing the ruins were the highlights of Aguas Calientes.
The Final Tally
Overall Spend: $637.77
Notes: Staying in Aguas Calientes for just one night is feasible, and taking the earliest train in and the latest train out can help avoid overnight stays altogether. However, even those without children should consider staying overnight to sidestep back-to-back travel with a long hike in between.
