Summary
Immersion into Ancient Egypt
There’s no better immersion into the wonders of ancient Egypt than a sailing along the Nile. Uniworld’s opulent new river ship is a journey for the ages.
The sunbaked temples and tombs on the banks of the Nile River are books penned in stone. You do not pass through them as mere physical spaces. These walls are legible, carrying missives from another world. If the medium is the message, these enduring piles of engraved and painted rock amount to some of the most sophisticated communication devices in existence. That was my first thought as I wandered in amazement through Karnak, the vast temple complex in Luxor, and the idea stayed with me for the duration of my eight nights in Egypt.
The Uniworld Sphinx River Cruise Experience
I had arrived via Cairo from my home in Paris to experience the Sphinx, a new Uniworld river ship. But I had also come to fulfill a childhood dream of exploring the relics of ancient Egypt. Upon arrival in Luxor, my fellow passengers and I were spirited away from the ferocious African sun by the gentle humor and substantive knowledge of our guide, Hazem Khalaf. Uniworld partners with the Egyptian-owned Spring Tours for its sailings, and Khalaf is its director—a genial Egyptologist who has been leading tours for 22 years. He treats his métier with the reverence of a master chef or doctor, or maybe even one of Hemingway’s priestly Spanish bullfighters.
A river cruise, among other things, is a study in repetition and rhythm. After several days on the Nile, you start to get in touch with the more meditative qualities of moving along the water and contemplating the shifting landscape.
All of us were set up in cabins that felt more like grand suites, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, king-size beds, and spacious sitting areas. The Sphinx also offers four Royal Suites, which have separate living rooms that are truly fit for entertaining. Returning to the ship after daily excursions felt like retreating into a familiar bubble, where attentive staff members were dedicated to making our experience enjoyable. The Egyptian men who cleaned and restocked the rooms and staffed the bars and dining rooms were as diligent as they were personable.
Journey to Luxor and the Temples
Bendixen and I took our meals together and grew fond of several of our regular waiters, none more than the attentive Abdo Zaref, who kept our glasses flowing with crisp Egyptian pilsners. Meals were served on the first-level deck, which offered captivating water-level views. Among my noteworthy dishes were classics of the region, like couscous and börek (a puff pastry with salted cheese and yogurt dip)—along with surprisingly smooth Egyptian and Libyan wines.
It takes little imagination to forget the hum of the engine and immerse oneself in the mindset of a visitor from another time, come to pay respects to Sobek (the crocodile god) or Horus (the falcon-headed god).
Exploring the Valley of the Kings
Spring Tours provided shuttle buses that cocooned us in comfort while Khalaf expounded capsule lectures on the history and vocabulary behind the day’s itinerary. On the way to the Valley of the Kings—where the pharaohs were buried in the barren, inhospitable hillsides before they shifted their capital from Memphis to Cairo—we passed one of the most awe-inspiring sights I have ever encountered: the Colossi of Memnon. It consists of two 59-foot-high seated statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III, which have stood since 1350 B.C.
Later, in the Valley of the Kings, I stood mesmerized before Tutankhamen’s Burial Chamber, reflecting on the profound experiences facilitated by ancient Egypt’s monumental architecture and artifacts.
Final Destination: The Pyramids
As we approached Cairo’s Pyramids, the anticipation grew. The contrast between the ancient marvels and the contemporary world around them was poignant. I shared in the emotional response of a fellow traveler, who proclaimed, “I have always wanted to see the Pyramids.” As my own eyes began to well, I realized that this sight, steeped in history and significance, would resonate long after our cruise concluded.
Uniworld offers 12-day Splendors of Egypt & the Nile sailings, which include two days in Cairo, from $6,199, all-inclusive.
A version of this story first appeared in the October 2022 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline “The Eternal River”.
