1. Overview of the Flight to Lukla
The flight to Lukla is considered one of the most dangerous flights in the world. The danger stems from the landing strip at Lukla Airport, which has one of the shortest runways, measuring only 525 meters (1,729 feet) long, and is situated at one of the highest altitudes, at 9,334 ft (2,845 m). Coupled with the steep slope of the runway perched on the edge of a mountain, it’s no surprise that Lukla is recognized as the most hazardous airport globally.
2. Kathmandu to Lukla
Imagine flying through the Himalayas on a small twin-engine aircraft, while the “obstacle alert” signals keep flashing on the pilot’s rudimentary instruments. This scenic flight isn’t something that many typically look forward to, yet it is essential for those trekking to Mount Everest Base Camp, as the journey begins in Lukla. Choosing to fly from Kathmandu is crucial to avoid significantly extending your trek, especially since the Nepal visa only allows for 30-day entries.
Note: Currently, Lukla flights have been suspended from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu due to congestion and have now been rerouted from Ramechap Airport. We haven’t experienced this route; however, the thrill of landing at Lukla Airport remains enticing.
3. Understanding the Risks of Lukla Flights
Our adventure began in Kathmandu, where we arranged a tour to Everest Base Camp, anticipating two unforgettable weeks in the Everest region. Despite hearing numerous frightening stories about flights to Lukla, we remained hopeful.
Lukla flights have a notorious reputation for danger. Since the year 2000, there have been seven crashes resulting in 50 fatalities. The safety records for these flights can only be described as alarming. The most recent accident occurred in April 2019, claiming three lives when the aircraft went off the runway and collided with a helicopter.
Due to the short runway, pilots face immense challenges when landing, as they must decelerate effectively to prevent crashing into the mountain wall awaiting them at the end. With only a narrow landing path of approximately 20 meters (65 feet), there is little room for error.
Arriving at the airport early in the morning after a restless night, we were filled with excitement. Fulfilling our aspiration of trekking to Everest required us to navigate this perilous landing first.
4. The Experience at Kathmandu Airport
Kathmandu Airport is both crowded and chaotic. It’s evident why flights have moved to Ramechap Airport, as the congestion at Kathmandu is overwhelming. Thankfully, our guide Dipendra accompanied us, helping us navigate through the mayhem.
We booked our Lukla flight with Tara Air, the most preferred airline for this route. Other popular options include Summit Air and Sita Air.
After a short bus ride to the tarmac, we boarded our small twin-otter plane, which accommodates about 20 passengers. While the plane appeared slightly worn, we were committed to the journey ahead and took our seats.
5. The Flight Experience
As we embarked, the weather was foggy and grey, making us anxious. In 2008, a flight crashed under similar conditions, claiming 50 lives; thus, landing in poor weather at Lukla Airport was a daunting prospect. Fortunately, as we departed Kathmandu Valley, we witnessed the clouds give way to radiant blue skies, easing our worries and providing stunning views of the Everest region.
The hour-long flight was exhilarating. While there were no inflight services, we were captivated by the breathtaking views outside. Seated at the front of the plane, we watched as the pilot’s instruments repeatedly flashed warnings of “obstacle ahead.” The sight of towering mountains only added to our adrenaline.
6. Choosing Your Seat for the Best Views
- The optimal side to sit on during flights to Lukla from Kathmandu is the left-hand side for the finest mountain views.
- For the return trip from Lukla to Kathmandu, opt for the right-hand side for the best perspective.
The flight flew by quickly, and soon we were glancing out the cockpit window at a tiny landing strip. We held our breath as we prepared to land.
7. First Impressions of Lukla Runway
Upon landing, relief washed over us; we had successfully arrived at Lukla Airport. Officially known as Tenzing Hillary Airport, this precarious airstrip is literally hanging off the mountainside, with a steep drop leading into an expansive valley below.
This airport is named in honor of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who were the first individuals to conquer Mount Everest in 1953. Just as they faced danger on their ascent, modern adventurers must also embrace the risks to reach the trekking paths.
Feeling euphoric, not only for surviving the flight, but also for following in the footsteps of legendary explorers, we were ready to embark on our trek.
8. The Return Journey to Kathmandu – Two Weeks Later
Nothing could be scarier than returning from Lukla after experiencing a flight through the Himalayas. After the exhilarating trek, another plane ride filled my heart with anxiety.
Surviving the flight to Lukla left us wondering about our return. I contemplated suggesting trekking back instead of flying.
The thought of taking off from such a short runway was intimidating; any miscalculation could lead to a steep drop into the valley below.
As we descended from Everest, dread about boarding another flight lingered in my mind.
9. Preparing for the Return Trek
After two incredible weeks hiking in the most renowned mountain range on earth, it was time to return to civilization. Our three-day trek back down required us to wish for favorable weather conditions. Flight cancellations are commonplace in Lukla, as weather can swiftly turn.
While descending, we heard rumors that flights had been on hold for three days due to poor weather, raising our concerns.
With our trek concluded, all we wanted was to leave the mountains and indulge in pasta and a spa day back in Kathmandu. Maintaining hope that the weather would improve upon reaching Lukla, we pressed onward.
Upon arriving in Lukla early in the afternoon, we discovered that both Kathmandu-bound flights and those departing from Lukla had been cancelled. We remained hopeful as we had an extra day.
10. Being Stuck in Lukla, Nepal
Morning arrived, but it brought gray skies and fog. Scheduled for a 9:00 flight, we sat and waited as time passed with no update.
The difficulty of being delayed in Lukla lies in the limited activities available. With high prices and a small village, entertainment options were scarce. We took a walk, circumnavigating the area in about an hour. Reading materials were present, but anxiety about departure overtook us.
Fortunately, there was a local establishment resembling a “Starbucks” where we could relax. While it wasn’t the actual Starbucks, it provided a cozy atmosphere with decent lattes.
With little to engage us, we continued waiting.
11. Weather Troubles in Lukla
Despite our eagerness to leave, the view of the black void at the runway’s end left us hesitant. I was willing to wait for a safe flight until weather conditions improved, hoping it wouldn’t take too long.
After a few hours, we were overjoyed to see planes arriving from Kathmandu. Perhaps the returning flights indicated potential for our departure as well!
Once these aircraft landed, we received news that outbound flights were set to resume later that day. Hopeful yet cautious, we prepared for what was to come.
Returning to our hotel, we finally received word to head to the airport for check-in.
Two more airplanes arrived in quick succession, and we embarked as swiftly as the previous passengers exited. We barely had time to buckle in before our pilot took off.
12. A Turbulent Flight Back to Kathmandu
Glancing across the aisle, I noticed one window with a crack secured by duct tape. Was this flight safe? Would we join the list of infamous Lukla flights that did not end well?
The takeoff from Lukla Airport is nothing short of terrifying. The short runway leads directly into a deep valley surrounded by the Himalayas, making me anxious to view the scenery.
Reassuring myself that our experienced pilots manage this daily, I glanced at a friendly Sherpa beside Dave. He appeared at ease, providing me comfort amid the rough weather.
However, it wasn’t long before we encountered significant turbulence. Initially calm, the Sherpa’s expression shifted to one of concern.
We found ourselves bouncing like rubber ducks in a wave pool. Silence filled the cabin, with a skipped heartbeat hanging heavy in the air. A sudden air pocket jolted us, and without seat belts, we would have hit our heads on the ceiling.
Desiring to leave Lukla early that morning, we now lamented that we hadn’t waited an extra day for better weather.
13. Views from the Lukla Flight
I grasped Dave’s knee with sweaty palms, reflecting, “At least if we crash, we will be together.”
I attempted to distract myself by gazing out the window, but the constant shifting caused my stomach to churn. Even Dave, typically unflappable, was silent with tension.
My thoughts drifted to moments of impatience or rudeness during our travels, contemplating if I was being punished by Karma. I resolved to be a better person should I survive this ordeal.
14. The Longest 45 Minutes of My Life
As we landed, the cheerful Sherpa erupted in laughter and applause. That’s when I realized we had endured a flight notorious for rattling even seasoned travelers.
While collecting our bags from the parking lot, we met a fellow trekker who had flown just before us. She looked pale and dazed, revealing her struggles during the flight. It was surprising that I, too, hadn’t succumbed to nausea.
Feeling a bit shell-shocked yet relieved, we stepped into the warm sunshine of Kathmandu. After two weeks of cold, we had forgotten the comfort of lower altitudes.
Having survived both Everest and that flight, our final challenge lay in navigating the chaotic traffic back to our guest house.
In reflecting upon our travels, Dave joked, “Been there, done that, and got the T-shirt to prove it.”
