Châteaux and Natural Wine in the Loire Valley

Among the storied castles of the Loire Valley, there is a new generation of vintners whose low-intervention wines are redefining old-world style.

On my last trip to France’s Loire Valley, I did something I’d never done before: I visited several châteaux. This sounds unusual because castles are as common in the region as grains of sand on a beach—it’s hard to not stay in one. However, as a wine writer, I’m usually tromping around vineyards with a winemaker, examining gray whorls of elderly grapevines and discussing the soil. Staying in fairy-tale castles? Not so much.

This time, I found myself standing in the highest tower of the Château de Chambord, built by King Francis I as a hunting lodge in the 16th century. With 440 rooms, 282 fireplaces, and more than 13,000 acres of land, it took 28 years to construct. Remarkably, Francis spent less than seven weeks there total before passing away.

Much has changed since the 1500s, but what’s noteworthy is that in the Loire, a surprising amount of that change—both in wine and châteaux—has occurred quite recently. Over the last three decades, the Loire has become the heart of France’s natural-wine movement. The area is vast, with 87 wine appellations along the river, ranging from Muscadet on the coast to Sancerre, some 240 miles east, and beyond.

Throughout the region, you can find a loose confederation of innovative producers making what are often referred to as minimal-intervention wines. Unlike conventional techniques, their cultivation and vinification methods avoid chemical fertilizers, pesticides, artificial yeasts, and other technological additives. There’s also little or no use of sulfur as a preservative. The results can be intriguing or bizarre; the best are incredibly vibrant, lacking in the dullness found in mass-produced bottles.

In the Loire, you can experience a royal night and tromp through fields like a farmer during the day, creating an enlightening contrast.

Recently, several grand châteaux have been transformed into luxury hotels. You can live like nobility in the evenings and engage in the agricultural experience during the days. Among these properties is the stunning Relais de Chambord, originally built for the king’s hunting hounds in the 1700s. Although it didn’t have modern upgrades like rain showers or luxurious bedding, you can enjoy breathtaking views of King Francis’s château from your window, just a few hundred feet away.

Upon arriving at La Grange Tiphaine, Damien and Coralie Delecheneau’s vineyard and winery about an hour away in the Montlouis appellation, I was greeted by a hound. Every Loire Valley winemaker seems to have at least one dog. Typically, they growl for a moment before flopping over in the dirt. This winery pup, Lou, showed little interest; he preferred to chase rabbits in the vineyard.

The Delecheneaus are committed to low-intervention wine practices, farming biodynamically and adhering to its core principles. As Damien explains, the Loire has become a hub for this movement because it offers more accessible vineyard prices compared to regions like Burgundy or Bordeaux. Additionally, many early advocates of the natural-wine revolution were based in the Loire. “The beautiful acidity we have in our wines helps, too, if you choose to work this way,” he notes.

The rustic charm of La Grange Tiphaine’s appearance belies the meticulousness of its winemaking. “I’m from a scientific background,” Damien remarks, “but now I work more with my heart.” His 2018 Clef de Sol Chenin Blanc exemplifies this sentiment: it bursts with the aroma of spring flowers and wildflower honey, creating a vibrant sensation on the palate. As we strolled past the 80-year-old vines, Lou followed closely behind, ears alert.

Across the river from La Grange Tiphaine lies Domaine Huet, the most acclaimed producer in the Vouvray appellation. Established in 1928 by World War I veteran Victor Huët, it was overseen for 55 years by his son Gaston, except for a five-year period he spent as a prisoner of war. After returning in 1945, he went on to create one of the greatest vintages of the 20th century.

Since 2003, Hungarian winemaker István Szepsy and New York financier Anthony Hwang have owned the property, with daughter Sarah Hwang managing the winery. She recognizes Huet’s prestigious reputation: “It’s something we could choose to embrace or fight against, and we’ve chosen to embrace it. Our role is to ensure that the story continues and is recorded properly.”

Huet’s Chenin Blancs, whether dry or sweet, are renowned for their chiseled intensity—delightful white wines that linger on the palate. As you journey towards the 15th-century Châateau du Rivau, recently transformed into a 12-room hotel, you will find elegant stone and wood interiors complemented by modern art. Rivau was built in 1420 and has a rich history, including a connection to Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years’ War.

More recently, co-owner Patricia Laigneau has adorned the grounds with a magnificent rose garden boasting over 450 varieties. “A rose without scent is like a person without a soul,” she remarked, encouraging visitors to stroll through the garden during the early morning or evening when the blooms are at their most fragrant.

Another breathtaking 18th-century Neoclassical property is the Hôtel Château du Grand-Lucé, located near Le Mans. Guests can explore magnificent gardens and retreat to one of the 17 guest rooms featuring original oak flooring and luxurious Pratesi sheets. If you wish to view the region’s châteaux from above, the concierge can help arrange a hot-air-balloon ride.

While experiencing luxury can be enjoyable, I sought to balance out my indulgences. Hence, I traveled to Sancerre to meet my friend Pascaline Lepeltier, a Master Sommelier and native to the Loire Valley. As I drove east, the grand châteaux of the central Loire became increasingly sparse. I followed the river as it twisted through gentle hills and forests, and knew I had reached Sancerre when I saw the hills blanketed in Sauvignon Blanc vines.

Sancerre’s signature grape—in addition to its charming hilltop town—encompasses 14 small villages. I enjoyed lunch with Lepeltier at Momento, which opened last year in the tiny town of Bué.

Good wine tells stories. The right bottle can even allow you to travel through time.

The owners, Thomas Jacquet and Mariana Mateos, are a talented couple. Jacquet, a sommelier from nearby Bannay, and Mateos, a chef from Mexico, met while working together at Racines, a wine-focused French bistro in New York City where Lepeltier is the head sommelier.

From the cozy upstairs dining room, we could see the rooftops of the town and vineyards as we relished ravioli filled with earthy crottin de Chavignol goat-milk cheese. We were soon joined by two young Sancerrois winemakers, Matthieu Delaporte and Luc Prieur, who came armed with their own cuvées, leading to a lively gathering of four people and an assortment of bottles.

Later, I inquired how long Delaporte’s family has been making wine. “Since the 17th century,” he replied. “We were one of the first domaines in Sancerre-Chavignol; where we’re located is where everything started. At that time, they were making wine, raising animals, and making cheese.”

My favorite of Domaine Delaporte’s wines, enjoyed during lunch, is their Sancerre Les Monts Damnés—a crystalline and powerful representation of complex Sauvignon Blanc.

“Monts Damnés is like a grand cru of Sancerre, although technically there are no crus here,” Delaporte explained. “It signifies ‘the damned mountains,’ as a century ago, only the truly determined would work such steep slopes. It’s forty to fifty degrees! But it’s worth it.”

Adventure-filled Wine Regions Worth Adding to Your Travel List

When his ancestors were picking grapes on the chalk inclines of Monts Damnés, did they know that the Sun King was building a stable for 1,200 horses just 70 miles away? Probably not, as distances were greater then. Did his grandfather, bottling wines in 1947—hundreds of which Delaporte recently found in perfect condition beneath his grandparents’ home—know that a Liberator bomber had crashed on the grounds of Chambord shortly before? Quite possibly. Today, when opening a bottle of Delaporte’s wine, can I taste all those intertwined histories? Imaginatively, perhaps.

Good wine tells stories. The right bottle can indeed let you travel through time. As Delaporte reflected on those 1947 bottles: “They taste incredible; it reminds me of my great-grandfather, who crafted wine through both world wars.” Until I can return to the Loire, I will savor a bottle from Delaporte’s collection, envisioning myself gazing over the rooftops of Bué in the late afternoon light, enjoying laughter and camaraderie with friends.

Getting There

From Paris, it’s a 2½-hour drive to Tours, in the heart of the Loire Valley, followed by an additional two hours to Sancerre.

Where to Stay

Relais de Chambord: The façade of this elegant 55-room hotel reflects the slate-roofed towers of the Château de Chambord. Enjoy a guided tour of the château, and indulge in the spa that features a sauna, hammam, and outdoor whirlpool (doubles from $213).

Hôtel Château du Grand-Lucé: This stunning Neoclassical château, built between 1760 and 1764, spans over 45,000 square feet, providing only 17 (extremely luxurious) guest rooms with original oak floors and Buly 1803 bathroom amenities (doubles from $715).

Château du Rivau: Built in the 15th century, Rivau has undergone renovations since the late 1990s. Explore the fragrant rose gardens and encounter white peacocks roaming the inner courtyard (kids may enjoy the property’s many fairy-tale themed gardens). Doubles from $275.

Where to Eat

Momento: Chef Mariana Mateos’s menu showcases Sancerre’s local products—like crottin de Chavignol cheese and wild herbs—while incorporating Italian influences. Thomas Jacquet’s extensive wine list is a highlight (Entrées $28–$62).

Wineries to Visit

La Grange Tiphaine: The charming owners Damien and Coralie Delecheneau maintain a philosophy of low intervention for their Montlouis and Touraine wines. Schedule a visit to taste their stunning Malbec made from century-old vines.

Domaine Delaporte: Known for producing some of Sancerre’s best wines, Delaporte offers a quaint tasting room in the small village of Chavignol.

Domaine Huet: Be sure to book ahead to visit this legendary Vouvray property. Tastings encompass the range of Huet wines, both sparkling and still, from dry to sweet—with the potential to sample older vintages. In-depth cellar tours can also be arranged via email.