Experience Bonfire Night in Lewes

Remember, remember the fifth of November… Each year, Lewes transforms from a quiet medieval market town with a population of about 17,000 into a bustling hub as around 60,000 visitors flock in for Bonfire Night. This event hosts the largest and most traditional celebrations in the country, unmatched in noise and fanfare.

Lewes Bonfire Night resembles a mix between a riot and a lively parade, capturing the essence of Halloween while embodying the spirited exuberance of Mardi Gras. Hundreds of flaming petrol-soaked crosses and torches parade down the town’s main street, accompanied by near-range exploding firecrackers, bagpipes, and brass bands.

As the parade proceeds, shouts of “burn him!” resonate against the shop walls, while effigies of Guy Fawkes and Pope Paul V, along with giant tableaux of the year’s most reviled villains, make their grand entrance. These 3D caricatures—whose identities remain secret until the parade’s climax—often include humorous takes on contemporary figures like Kim Jong Un, Boris Johnson, Donald Trump, and others.

After several circuits of the high street, the surrounding bonfire societies disperse to various fields at the town’s edge to ignite their effigies in massive bonfires.

This 300-year-old tradition is a spectacle like no other, and it’s nearly impossible not to get swept up in the thrilling atmosphere. Here’s how to make the most of your visit to Lewes for Bonfire Night.

What is Bonfire Night?

Guy Fawkes masks are synonymous with anti-government protests globally, largely popularised by the film V for Vendetta. However, the failure of Fawkes has been commemorated in Lewes for over four centuries. On November 5, 1605, Fawkes and a group of English Catholics attempted to blow up the Houses of Parliament to assassinate the king. The conspiracy was thwarted when an anonymous letter exposed their plot, leading to the discovery of 36 barrels of gunpowder.

Following the incident, the Observance of 5th November Act was enacted, with church services marked by fireworks and bell ringing for hundreds of years. Yet, in some areas, the pro-government celebrations often took a more anarchic turn.

Why is Bonfire Night in Lewes so special?

Religious discord and anti-Catholic sentiments lingered in Lewes and Sussex for centuries, yet the event is now celebrated as a secular occasion. Interestingly, a street-wide banner proclaiming “NO POPERY,” adorned with a skull and crossbones, is unfurled and displayed from upper-storey windows in the town centre.

Lewes Bonfire Night takes place on November 5, unless it falls on a Sunday, in which case it moves to Saturday. Early in the afternoon, the streets quiet down as traffic is restricted and shopkeepers board up their windows, transforming the center into a bustling festival ground.

The festivities kick off at 5:45 PM with the barrel run, where participants race down Cliffe High St dragging flaming tar barrels. These barrels are tossed into the River Ouse, symbolising the government officials who tried to curtail Lewes’ celebrations by declaring the Riot Act in the 19th century.

Roughly 30 bonfire societies from Sussex grace Lewes on November 5, with six local societies actively participating in the grand procession, which commences around 8 PM down the High St. Each society dons ‘smuggler uniforms’—striped pirate-like sweaters along with white trousers, black boots, and red hats or bandanas to signify their groups. The two oldest local societies, Cliffe and Lewes Borough, sport black and white, and blue and white stripes respectively, celebrating their rich heritage since their formation in 1853. The Grand Procession wraps up at 9 PM.

Every element of the parade is imbued with historical significance. Participants proudly carry burning crosses to honor the 17 Protestant martyrs executed in Lewes during the 16th century. The phrase “We wunt be druv” (we won’t be driven), which embodies the town’s resilient spirit, is represented in burning letters as it is paraded through the streets.

Expect to see each bonfire society showcase its unique historical attire, which may include masked Vikings with horned helmets, Zulu warriors with intricate headdresses, Tudor ladies in voluminous skirts, and suffragettes wielding signs advocating for “Votes for Women.”

Following the various processions, each bonfire society heads to distinct firesites just beyond the town limits to burn their creations and effigies. These fires ignite around 9:30 PM, although it can take some time for everyone to gather. The celebration continues late into the night, concluding as the flames dwindle around 1-2 AM.

How to Get to Lewes for Bonfire Night

Lewes faces challenges accommodating the influx of visitors, rendering driving inadvisable. Parking restrictions are in place throughout the town beginning at noon, with full road closures commencing at 4:45 PM. Even if you manage to park, closures may prevent you from retrieving your vehicle until after 2 AM.

Public transport services are halted from the early evening to manage crowds, meaning trains will not halt at Lewes or nearby areas from 4 PM until the following morning’s schedule resumes.

Where to Stay

Preparation is essential for a comfortable experience. Lewes offers a limited selection of hotels and B&Bs in the town center, but rates tend to be higher due to demand during this event. Rooms are often booked well in advance, sometimes even a year ahead. Alternatives like Airbnb are available nearby, but budget travelers may find it easier to stay in Brighton or surrounding villages, then walk, cycle, or take a taxi to the event.

While it’s feasible to experience Lewes Bonfire Night as a day trip from London or Brighton, public transport limitations may complicate logistics. Moreover, this option means missing out on the celebratory bonfire society gatherings that conclude late into the evening.

What to Wear and Bring

November in England can be quite chilly and rainy. Dress in old waterproof trousers, sturdy boots, and warm coats, as they will undoubtedly encounter firecracker smoke and debris by evening’s end. The narrow streets, filled with revelers, make earplugs advisable for those unaccustomed to loud noises.

Food options and restroom facilities are limited: the local pubs fill quickly, often hosting private events. Bring cash, as donation boxes for charity circulate during the parade, and purchasing tickets for bonfire society celebrations may be available at the entry gates.

Keep in mind that Lewes Bonfire Night may not be suitable for individuals with restricted mobility or young children in strollers, as the crowded streets can become difficult to navigate.