Introduction to Lech

Introducing the picturesque village of Lech in the Austrian Alps. There’s no shortage of mountain towns in the Alps, but finding the right one can be a bit of a Goldilocks process — this one is too small, that one is too big, this one doesn’t have the best hotels, that one doesn’t have the best slopes. Austria’s sleepy village of Lech, however, amply delivers on all fronts. It’s difficult to find someone who has visited and not immediately fallen for its charms.

Lech is a quick 20-minute bus or taxi ride up and over the mountains from the more well-known St. Anton am Arlberg (a.k.a. the birthplace of modern skiing as we know it). Once you arrive, Lech’s storybook charms become immediately apparent: snow falling gently on wooden houses; walkable streets and trails weaving around town, over rivers, and through forests; and tradition reinventing itself for the modern age.

The town was settled by the Walser people from the Swiss canton of Valais around 1300, and they enjoyed a quiet existence until the birth of ski tourism in the early 20th century. The first lift went up in Lech in 1939; today, there are 87, including gondolas, cable cars, and chairlifts, opening the surrounding mountains to adventure seekers of all levels. The skiing is, naturally, excellent, and the town’s relaxed, elegant atmosphere has made it a must-visit for in-the-know travelers. Celebrities and royals have come here for decades to seek out its seclusion and privacy.

Where to Stay in Lech

Hotel Arlberg

In a town like Lech, it’s all about the owner-operated hotels, and the luxurious Hotel Arlberg has been in the Schneider family for generations. It has everything you’d expect from a classic Alpine property — a cozy Stube restaurant for fondue and raclette, a half-board rate that includes breakfast and dinner, and a fantastic spa and wellness area — but it also comes with an outdoor pool with breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, suites with large soaking tubs, and Schneider family members walking around and engaging with the guests.

Boutique-Hotel Schmelzhof

Hotels like the Schmelzhof don’t really exist in American ski towns, which is a shame. Everything is quintessentially Austrian, carefully honed by generations of practice. The lobby feels less like an imposing, impersonal space, and more like you’re walking into someone’s cozy, inviting home. One of the great joys of staying here is when the owner, Anna, walks around to every table at breakfast, taking the time to make sure each guest feels welcome.

What to See and Do in Lech

Take in some culture.

While Lech has an outsize reputation as a ski town these days, it’s easy to forget that people have lived here for centuries and culture is around every bend, if you know where to look. Peek inside the Old Church of St. Nicholas, built in 1390, or head over to the Huber House, built in 1590 and now serving as a museum displaying life in 16th century Lech.

For something a little more modern, fans of James Turrell will be thrilled to learn that Lech has one of the artist’s famed Skyspaces, an indoor-outdoor immersive lighting experience. It’s a magical, Instagram-worthy experience that blends nature with contemporary art.

Go skiing or snowboarding.

There’s no wrong way to ski Lech — just hop on the lifts and go. However, the destination’s iconic White Ring is an easy-to-follow route that traverses up and over the various mountains surrounding town, connecting the villages of Lech, Zürs, Zug, and Oberlech. This part of Austria is famous for its “ski up from one village, ski down into another” approach, and it’s also one of the largest contiguous skiable areas in the world.

Where to Eat and Drink in Lech

The Wolf

The Wolf is one of Lech’s “huts,” an on-the-slopes spot for coffee, snacks, or a full-blown lunch. The sleek, wood-paneled space combines local materials with modern design, but it’s the satisfying favorites like the Der Wolf Burger that keep visitors returning season after season.

Café Gotthard

In Lech, Café Gotthard is where to experience delightful Austrian pastries. Memorable treats include krapfen, an apricot marmalade-filled doughnut perfect for breakfast or an après-ski snack.

Chef’s Table at Rote Wand

Located in Zug, just a few minutes from Lech, the Chef’s Table at Rote Wand is an example of chef-driven cuisine. The experience focuses on hyperlocal, hand-foraged Alpine ingredients reinterpreted in a modern way.

Restaurant at Almhof Schneider

For nearly a hundred years, the Schneider family has welcomed guests to its Restaurant for an exceptional dining experience. The spruce-paneled dining room is one of the most beautiful in the Alps, offering elevated Austrian fare that delights every guest.