Hypnotic, blue-green waters. Breathtaking mountain panoramas. A wide range of outdoor activities. Slovenia’s Lake Bohinj is the ideal summer holiday destination – wilder and more authentic than better-known Lake Bled to the northeast, but no less beautiful and far less crowded.
Several small hamlets surround the lake, which is situated within the Triglav National Park. A string of impossibly rustic, time-stood-still villages branch out to the lake’s northeast, while Ribčev Laz, on the lake’s eastern shore, is home to a handful of hotels and the main tourist information center.
For ecologically conscious travelers, Bohinj is known for sustainability. It was the first region to receive platinum status within the Green Scheme of Slovenian Tourism and its exceptionally diverse animal and plant life is protected by rigorous programs and organizations. The region also promotes green transportation methods, including free public transport with green mobility cards in the summer and winter.
Ride the Vogel cable car up to 5,036ft (1,535m) for a stunning view of the surrounding peaks and the lake below, and catch a glimpse of the dramatic, 256ft (78m)-high Savica Waterfall. However, make time for some more active pursuits as well – Bohinj is at its best when you’re boating, biking, hiking, and skiing. Here are some of our favorite experiences:
Watersports, Hiking, and More
Bohinj’s refreshing waters – which even in mid-summer rarely rise above 80°F (27°C) – are perfect for swimming, kayaking, canoeing, and paddleboarding. Outfitters situated near Ribčev Laz have everything you need for a day of self-guided fun on the water, where you can glide across the lake or splash around in the crystal-clear center.
The region also offers higher-adrenaline activities, such as whitewater rafting in the nearby Sava Bohinjka River, canyoning (a combination of rafting, jumping, and swimming) in the Jerečica or Grmečica gorges, and paragliding from peaks at Vogel and near the village of Studor.
After drying off, the trails of the surrounding national park are ideal for hiking. The 170-mile (270km) Juliana hiking trail winds alongside rivers and mountain passes, passing by Lake Bohinj at Ribčev Laz and threading through the villages to the northeast. The trail is divided into 16 day-long hikes, each of which affords views of the surrounding peaks from various angles. Much of the terrain is flat and accessible to beginners, though some parts are hilly. It’s open from March to November.
Two-Wheeled Adventures
If cycling is more your style, possibilities abound – from family-friendly rambles along quiet, paved roads to more demanding, higher-elevation mountain passes into the national park.
For families with kids in tow, the gentle 8-mile (12km) “Bohinj Cycling Route” hugs the Sava Bohinjka River as it passes through the picturesque villages of the Upper Bohinj Valley. You can access the route in the villages of Stara Fužina, Studor, and Srednja Vas and finish off by jumping into Lake Bled.
More experienced riders should try the Juliana Bike Mountain Bike Loop, which starts in Bohinjska Bistrica. You’ll climb the forested Pokljuka Plateau on your way, crossing the 5,285ft (1,611m) Vršič Pass and into the breathtakingly beautiful Soča Valley.
Outfitters in Stara Fužina offer guided hiking and biking trips in the region, including memorable multi-day mountain and gravel biking excursions. You can also find places to rent full equipment, including GPS trackers, for self-guided road and mountain biking tours.
Saddles and Slopes
For a low-key experience that the whole family will enjoy, look for guided horseback riding tours around the lake region and surrounding hills. Popular rides, suitable for beginners, follow the Juliana hiking trail out of the village into the hills of the national park before circling back to the lake.
The rides are on low-standing Icelandic horses that are so adorable the kids will want to take them home. Longer rides, including overnight options, can also be found outside the busier summer season.
Bohinj is a year-round destination with excellent snow sports. Taking the Vogel cable car from December through March gives access to 12 miles (20km) of highly photogenic pistes in the shadow of towering Mt Triglav, Slovenia’s tallest mountain at 9,396 ft (2,864m). The Pokljuka Plateau, on the eastern edge of the national park, is the country’s premier spot for cross-country skiing, with around 19 miles (30km) of well-groomed track. Several local outdoor outfitters rent gear in season.
Dining and Shopping
Lake Bohinj forms its own culinary micro-region and is well known for locally made sausages, buckwheat groats (a popular side dish), and lake trout, which when cooked takes on a texture and pinkish color that many confuse for salmon.
The lake also lies at the center of a vibrant cheese-making region. The area’s signature “Bohinj cheese” (Bohinjski sir), made from cow’s milk, has a medium-hard texture and nutty taste that resembles Swiss Emmentaler, though with smaller holes. Local cheesemakers also produce a range of milder soft cheeses and a musty spread called “Mohant” that’s ideal for slathering on dark bread. The Alpine Dairy Farming Museum in Stara Fužina showcases the region’s long history of cheese-making.
Look for some of the region’s many unique foods and handicrafts designated with the label “Bohinjsko / From Bohinj.” Besides fish and cheeses, authentic food items include locally made honeys, jams, dried meats, garlic, and chilis. Crafted items include knitwear, woolen goods, soaps, traditional wooden artwork, and distinctive long-stemmed pipes. Restaurants that serve From Bohinj food include Triglav Restaurant, Merjasec Alpine Hut, and Zlatovčica Restaurant, where you can find samples of the cheeses and other locally made goods.
Practical Information
Lake Bohinj is easily reachable from Ljubljana by bus or train. Trains stop in Bohinjska Bistrica, about 4 miles (7km) from the lake. Buses run all the way to the hamlet of Ribčev Laz, situated on the shore of the lake. The trip takes around two hours each way. Accommodation can be tight in summer, so it’s advisable to plan ahead. Farm stays are available in the surrounding villages of Stara Fužina, Studor, and Srednja Vas. The recently renovated Hotel Bohinj in Ribčev Laz offers luxury rooms steps away from the shore, while the Hotel Jezero, near the bus stop in Ribčev Laz, is more budget-friendly and boasts a lovely indoor pool.
