1. Introduction
More than a century after the first tourists arrived on Kauai, the Hawaiian island is attracting modern travelers with a return to tradition—and a mission to give back.
2. Morning Ritual in Kauai
The sky blushed rose gold and lavender as dawn broke over Hikinaakala Heiau, on Kauai’s eastern shore. This sacred place, where the Wailua River spills into the Pacific, was once home to an ancient temple. It’s where the first rays of light shine on the island, and for centuries, the Kauaian people have come here to celebrate the sun’s return each morning.
3. Embracing the Culture
My 19-year-old daughter Stella and I had been invited to greet the day with Kumu Leinā’ala Pavao Jardin and three of the students from her hula school, Hālau Ka Lei Mokihana o Leinā’ala. Standing on the shore, the women—heads crowned with leafy lei po’o, wrists and ankles wrapped in beaded lei kukui—began to clap. Their hands set the beat for the chant, beckoning the sun to rise from the depths of the ocean. “With the sun rising, there is a new day ahead,” Jardin said. “What is our purpose on this land? What is our kuleana, our responsibility?”
As the sun climbed higher, the women started another chant, this one telling the story of Hi’iaka, the youngest sister of the volcano goddess Pele, who traveled to Kauai to fetch Pele’s lover. When her canoe reached the Wailua River, she began to chant, requesting to be welcomed ashore.
4. The Meaning of Stewardship
Native Hawaiians cherish this ancient legend, which conveys the deeply held principle of asking permission to enter a place that does not belong to you. “We are kamaaina,” Jardin continued, using the word for longtime Hawaii residents, “but we, too, are guests of this land, stewards of this land. It is our responsibility to share that idea with visitors, in the same way we teach our children.”
5. A New Perspective on Tourism
It was the first morning of a nine-day adventure around Kauai—our first trip outside New York since the world had shut down 14 months earlier. We had gone there to hear the islanders’ stories and to instill our travels with the Hawaiian concept of malama ka aina—meaning to care for, or preserve, the land. Jardin and her students had gifted us with the perfect start.
6. Resetting Kauai for Sustainability
As with many overtouristed destinations, the pandemic gave Kauai a much-needed reset.
Brochures from Hawaii’s fledgling tourist days in the early 1900s flaunted images of orchid-laden Polynesian beauties reclining beneath coconut trees and strapping Native Hawaiian boys on surfboards. Intrigued by notions of a warm, aloha spirit, vacationers flocked to the islands, first on steamships and later by jet.
7. The Economic Impact of Tourism
By the time Hawaii gained statehood in 1959, travel had begun to rival its roughly $250 million plantation economy. While high labor costs spurred a decline in sugar and pineapple production in the mid-1970s, tourism earnings ballooned to $1 billion. In 2019, a record 10.4 million people traveled to the state and spent more than $17.75 billion. On Kauai alone, about 27,700 visitors were on the island on any given day, compared with just 72,300 residents.
8. Resilience of Nature and Community
Our visit last May came at a pivotal moment. The pandemic allowed residents to return to beaches that had previously been overrun with visitors; spinner dolphins, turtles, and endangered Hawaiian monk seals returned to previously crowded bays. Moreover, the travel industry embraced this opportunity to reconsider its role. At the end of 2020, tourism officials outlined a plan aiming to position Kauai at the forefront of the regenerative travel movement by protecting the island’s natural resources and nurturing Native Hawaiian culture.
9. Experiencing the Charm of Kauai
The evening before we met Jardin, Stella and I landed at Lihue Airport, picked up a rental car, and joined the stream of traffic on the Kuhio Highway, which links the island’s North and South Shores. To our west, the emerald ridges of Mount Waialeale—one of the rainiest places on earth—stood shrouded in mist. To the east, surfers rode swells toward the beach.
10. Accommodations and Sustainability Efforts
Our home for the next few days was the Cliffs at Princeville, where we settled into one of 202 breezy suites scattered across a bluff. There we found a dreamy setting for our first Kauai sunset. Right on cue, a rainbow arced across the sky. A pair of nenes, Hawaii’s state bird, doddered across the lawn.
11. Making a Difference
The Cliffs prioritize sustainability, generating more than half its power from solar panels, using low-flow systems to minimize water consumption, and swapping air-conditioning for the trade winds. The resort’s partnership with the Surfrider Foundation, a national organization dedicated to ocean preservation, signifies its commitment to ecological integrity.
12. Engaging with Local Conservation Efforts
People come to Kauai to hike, swim, and immerse themselves in the island’s beauty and culture. Surfrider’s efforts allow visitors to enjoy all Kauai has to offer while encouraging them to leave it just a little better than they found it.
13. Lessons in Stewardship
The simplest option would have been to grab a cleanup bucket from the Cliffs’ concierge. However, Stella and I wanted to dive deeper into Surfrider’s efforts, so we signed up for one of its weekly Net Patrols to remove lost and abandoned commercial fishing gear from Kauai’s shores.
14. Hands-on Experience
We followed Joshua Nipp, a Surfrider veteran, to a small motorboat waiting to ferry us across Nawiliwili Bay. We edged along a jagged cliff for about a mile, bushwhacking through thick naupaka shrubs and waist-high guinea grass. Our destination was a rugged crescent framing Unulau Bay, where we bagged 840 pounds of flotsam and jetsam that could have harmed the island’s wildlife.
Once dry, Stella and I made a beeline to Hamura Saimin, a hole-in-the-wall ramen joint in Lihue, indulging in steaming bowls of dashi.
15. Navigating Changes in Kauai’s Tourism
Tourism on Kauai’s North Shore was changing even before the pandemic hit. In April 2018, heavy rains caused landslides, prompting a reevaluation of how to manage visitors to the area’s fragile ecosystems. Residents seized the opportunity to improve the region’s quality of life through thoughtful planning and community-driven initiatives.
16. Community Involvement
During the lull, Hui Maka’āinana o Makana, a nonprofit started by ancestral families from Haena, worked with leaders to develop a blueprint for better visitor management and cultural restoration.
17. Immersive Cultural Experiences
The next morning, we set off for the North Shore to explore what Hui Maka’āinana o Makana was doing. We found Joel Guy, director of the Hanalei Initiative, in the bustling queue at Hanalei Bread Co. After grabbing breakfast, we reflected on the community’s historic connection to the land while enjoying our surroundings.
18. Sustainable Practices and Future Visions
Guy’s contributions to the Haena State Park Master Plan reflect a commitment to sustainable practices that balance preservation and accessibility. This approach has fostered a healthier relationship between visitors and the natural environment.
19. Exploring the Land
Later, we ventured along the park’s boardwalk into a forest before wading into the warm Pacific at Ke’e Beach, reaffirming the sentiment that this place is indeed a gift.
20. Preservation of Culture and Biodiversity
The journey continued along the Kuhio Highway, leading us to Limahuli Garden & Preserve, where ancestral plants flourish amidst ongoing cultural expression. The experience highlighted the effort to maintain Hawaiian traditions and communal responsibility toward the land.
21. Environmental and Cultural Stewardship
As we explored Limahuli and engaged with its director, we gained insights into the restoration efforts carried out by the Hui Maka’āinana o Makana, emphasizing the importance of land stewardship. The conversation underscored that the relationship between land and people in Hawaii is deeply intertwined with identity and heritage.
22. Culinary Experiences on Kauai
We concluded our trip with a visit to the Kauai Museum, where we learned about the island’s rich history and its monarchs, reinforcing the notion that understanding local culture can enhance travel experiences.
23. Final Reflections
As we reflected on our adventures, we appreciated how cultural immersion enriched our understanding of the island’s heritage and responsibilities. This journey allowed us to contribute actively to Kauai’s environmental regeneration efforts, forming a deeper connection with its community.
Getting to Know the Real Kauai
Where to Stay
Cliffs at Princeville: Guests can leave Kauai a little better than they found it by volunteering for a beach cleanup. Suites from $400.
Lodge at Kukui’ula: This hotel offers excursions on its outrigger sailing canoe. Cottages from $1,340.
Timbers Kaua’i: A former golf course now serves as a 17-acre organic farm. Doubles from $2,200.
Where to Eat
Hamura Saimin: Hawaiian noodle soup is the signature dish, along with a must-try lilikoi chiffon pie. 2956 Kress St., Lihue; 808-245-3271; entrées $8–$13.
Hanalei Bread Co.: Locals line up for coffee and hearty breakfast burritos. Entrées $9–$14.
What to Do
Kauai Museum: This Lihue institution’s mix of artifacts, paintings, and modern crafts showcases the island’s cultural heritage.
Limahuli Garden & Preserve: This 1,000-acre expanse spotlights native plants and flowers.
