Explore Mumbai’s Kala Ghoda Art District: A Complete Self-Guided Walking Tour

Mumbai’s renowned Kala Ghoda Art Precinct is one of the coolest neighborhoods in the city. It stretches from Regal Circle (SP Mukherjee Chowk) at the southern end of Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Road, northwards to Mumbai University. The name, meaning Black Horse, is derived from a bronze statue of King Edward VII that once stood there during the colonial period.

Currently, the area is a vibrant cultural hub offering art, history, education, and some of the city’s most acclaimed restaurants. The annual Kala Ghoda Festival in early February adds to the attraction.

Start: Regal Circle Mumbai

Regal Circle is located at the end of Colaba Causeway, opposite Regal Cinema, marked by a large fountain in the middle. With your back to Colaba Causeway, the impressive Maharashtra Police Headquarters is on your right, with the beginning of MG Road straight ahead near the bus stop.

National Gallery of Modern Art

Departing from Regal Circle, the first noteworthy building you’ll encounter on your left is the Mumbai National Gallery of Modern Art. This gallery is one in a series of national art galleries located in India, with counterparts in Delhi and Bangalore.

Originally called Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall, the gallery suffered from neglect after the construction of the Jehangir Art Gallery. However, a comprehensive 12-year restoration has transformed it into a bright, contemporary space featuring semicircular exhibitions at various levels. The gallery displays a range of works by both Indian and international artists.

What to Know

The Mumbai National Gallery of Modern Art operates from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and is closed on national holidays. Admission fees are 20 rupees for Indian visitors and 500 rupees for foreigners, with free entry for students. For more details, phone: (022) 2288-1969.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya

From the National Gallery of Modern Art, cross the road and continue north to find the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum). Its stunning architecture makes it a sight to behold.

Construction began in 1905, with the first stone laid by the Prince of Wales. The Indo-Saracenic style of architecture combines influences from Moorish Spain, Islamic domes, and Victorian towers. The museum opened to the public in 1922 and has since accumulated collections including ancient artifacts from the Indus Valley, Hindu and Buddhist sculptures, miniature paintings, weaponry, and natural history exhibits.

What to Know

Open from Tuesday to Sunday, the museum operates from 10:15 a.m. to 6 p.m. and is closed on national holidays. Admission costs 85 rupees for Indians and 500 rupees for foreigners, with concessions available for children, students, senior citizens, and defense personnel. Photography charges range from 50 to 100 rupees. For inquiries, call (022) 2284-4484.

Kala Ghoda Pavement Gallery

Proceed along MG Road from the museum to reach the Kala Ghoda Pavement Gallery, which runs adjacent to the sidewalk leading up to the Jehangir Art Gallery. This gallery features artwork from emerging artists showcasing and selling their talents.

What to Know

Visitors have the opportunity to engage with the artists, inquire about their crafts, and sometimes watch them paint.

Elphinstone College

Elphinstone College stands proudly across from MG Road next to the National Gallery of Modern Art. Established in 1888, it is one of the oldest colleges in Mumbai and an example of spectacular Victorian Gothic Revival architecture, designed by English architect James Trubshawe.

David Sassoon Library and Reading Room

Adjacent to Elphinstone College, the David Sassoon Library was originally a Mechanics Institute that provided education for employees at the Government Mint and Dockyard. Completed in 1870, its Venetian Gothic-style architecture was partly funded by the philanthropist Sir David Sassoon. The library now houses an extensive collection of rare books on art and architecture.

What to Know

The David Sassoon Library and Reading Room welcomes visitors daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more details, call: (022) 2284-3703.

Jehangir Art Gallery

Located on the corner of MG Road, Jehangir Art Gallery is an ultimate destination for artists looking to display their work. It is the most famous art gallery in Mumbai, hence acquiring space can take years for emerging artists.

Established in 1952 and managed by the Bombay Art Society, the gallery boasts two main wings with designated exhibition areas. Each week, various contemporary Indian artists showcase their work. Unfortunately, the renowned Cafe Samovar closed its doors in early 2015.

What to Know

Jehangir Art Gallery opens daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission is free. For questions, contact: (022) 2283-3640.

Museum Gallery

The Museum Gallery, positioned next to the Jehangir Art Gallery, is a contemporary exhibition space. If you’re keen on unique artworks, this is a must-visit. The gallery features innovative pieces that are frequently updated each week, with the Kala Ghoda Pavement Gallery encompassing the front of the building.

What to Know

The Museum Gallery operates daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and admission is free. For inquiries, reach them at (022) 2284-4484.

Rampart Row

Rampart Row is a restored heritage building located on K Dubash Marg, directly opposite the Museum and Jehangir Art Gallery. Opened in 2005, this charming space features 12,000 square feet dedicated to specialty stores and event spaces.

Book lovers would appreciate a visit to the Chetana Book Center, which offers a wide array of books on philosophy, religion, arts, and natural health. Additionally, the Chetana Craft Center next door features exquisite handwoven Indian textiles. Chetana truly dominates the neighborhood, with a popular restaurant serving traditional vegetarian thalis as well.

Although the famous Rhythm House music store at Rampart Row closed in early 2016, it’s interesting to note that the adjacent Silk Route Restaurant was once The Wayside Inn, where Doctor Babasaheb Ambedkar drafted the Constitution of India.

Restaurants and Bars

If you’re feeling hungry after exploring, several of Mumbai’s finest restaurants can be found in the Kala Ghoda Art Precinct, right across from the Jehangir Art Gallery.

Khyber, renowned for its Northwest Frontier cuisine, opened in 1958 and is a must-visit for meat enthusiasts. Its Afghan-inspired ambiance complements its delicious offerings. However, the restaurant is not prominently marked, so keep an eye out.

Copper Chimney is another favorite in Kala Ghoda, offering an extensive selection of North Indian cuisine. This chain is well-respected in Mumbai and other regions of India, with the kebabs notably recommended.

For a change from Indian dishes, head over to Bombay Blue for a diverse menu that includes pasta, sizzlers, Chinese cuisine, and Thai dishes, with a gelato shop located next door.

For drinks, both Irish House and the trendy 145 Kala Ghoda (which replaced Cheval) are popular options.

Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue

After exploring Rampart Row, turn left onto Sai Baba Road from K Dubash Marg and walk towards the Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue, located at the corner of VB Gandhi Marg.

This Neo-Classical synagogue was built in 1884 by Jacob Elias Sassoon and is among the oldest in Mumbai. Its interior features Minton tile flooring, stunning stained-glass windows, cast-iron columns, and exquisite chandeliers imported from England.

Following extensive renovations completed in early 2019, the synagogue’s original stone facade was revealed, enhancing its beauty.

What to Know

Visitors are welcome to enter the synagogue, open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday to Thursday (the local Jewish community holds services on Fridays and Saturdays). For security, you’ll need to present proper photo identification, like a passport. For inquiries, call: (22) 2283-1502.

Ropewalk Lane

Crossing VB Gandhi Marg, continue along Ropewalk Lane, where you will discover a variety of trendy shops and cafes. This includes Sancha Tea Boutique, Moksh Art Gallery, Nicobar – offering chic lifestyle products, Kala Ghoda Cafe – a great spot for coffee, and Trishna for delectable traditional Manglorean seafood.

If you’re after unique handmade products, don’t miss the Artisans’ gallery located on the corner of VB Gandhi Marg overlooking Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue.

Burjarji Bharucha Marg

At the end of Ropewalk Lane, Burjarji Bharucha Marg features a mix of trendy restaurants and boutique stores. Be sure to check out Mamagoto for fusion Asian cuisine, The Pantry for healthy organic options, Obataimu for contemporary Japanese-inspired fashion, and Bombay Shirt Company for custom-made shirts.

As you follow Burjarji Bharucha Marg, you will eventually return to MG Marg, bringing your exploration of the Kala Ghoda Art Precinct to a satisfying close.